I am surprised nobody came back to you on this. I will bump your post and put a link in the technical section.
In theory and looking at their Q&A's this product outperforms water based coolant mixes. You do not get something for nothing because they say the engine may run 3-7 degrees hotter. That may not be surprising if this 'synthetic' coolant is absorbing more heat but remember the big problem with K-bike design is their radiators are too small for their electric fans to clear away the heat below 30 mph in Summer.
I modified my KRS for extra strong fans, so I might ring them up and find out how much this stuff is. I would like to know what chemical they are using even if it is brake fluid! and what effect it might have on pump seals and hoses compared to water.
I was just thinking about water and the need to include corrosion inhibitors in anti-freeze. If this product is as good as they say, it will not cause internal corrosion and can be left in for the life of the motor. That is one less maintenance procedure to worry about.
Thanks for the bump. After doing more research I purchased Evans. Since the system needs to devoid of coolant and water. I decided to complete cooling system. The radiator is getting cleaned out, water pump replaced. I should be getting back my rad. next week.
How? The thermostat will still operate at the same temperature and the fan will still kick in at the same temperature.
I use Redline Water Wetter in my bikes because it improves the heat transfer of the coolant/water. Their website says that it can reduce coolant temperature by up to 20 degrees. Does it? Of course not - because my thermostat still operates at the same temperature it did before I added the Water Wetter..
They do suggest increasing the thermostat temperature. But you do not need to bother on K bikes because the temperature control and design of the cooling system for low speeds is so poor that the thermostat will be fully open most of the time anyway and the fans are poor at moving all the heat from the radiators.
Whatever you do to the coolant mix, if thermal conductivity and cooling capacity is increased in any way by this product, the radiators are too small to shift the increased heat load.
I can see some advantages in not having to replace coolant, but I would need to be convinced that internal corrosion is not present and 5-7 years is a long time to find out if it has worked or not.
Avoiding cavitation, local hotspots and vapour in coolant from over temperature cycling are an issue with water mixes. They increase cap pressures to reduce this. This is particularly true on K-bikes which at 16-18psi is higher than I have seen. In the Evans blurb they talk about the possibility of running without a rad cap, or rather at zero pressure. That too is an advantage.
The generic product from which this comes is supposed to be thick and viscose like treacle so I do not know if their formulation uses some kind of non water solvent to thin it down. With the small size of the water pump i would not think it would cope well with a thick syrupy coolant mix.
They say all water must be removed from the cooling system before putting their stuff in. They even sell a product to use first which is more money. Adding it all up you could be spending up to $180 to do the job their way, although I think if you dropped the hoses, blasted through some compressed air and left the bike, most of the residual water would have dried out. If you ever need to top up on the road or have a system boil up, you could have a problem. You can add water or ethylene glycol but once you do that the advantages are gone.
Stig - I would be interested to know what the viscosity of the product is. Can you describe it on a scale between water and black molasses? You could also do something else if you have the time. If this product is not water based and is not supposed to require a corrosion inhibitor I would expect it to be non-conductive.
You may not have a conductivity meter, but if you have an electronic multimeter, stick the probes in the Evans stuff on the Megohms resistance range. I know a new bottle of brake fluid hardly gets a reading and I would be interested to know what this does. If you do get a very high resistance reading then it should stay the same in the engine for life. If the resistance goes lower then either you left some water in or the Evans stuff is no longer acid/alkali neutral. I think I would want to make sure their product is anti-freeze by sticking a small quantity in a home freezer (circa -20 deg C) and then re-checking the viscosity. A frozen BMW engine block would write off the bike!
I do not see this product as a magic bullet fixall, but it claims to have some interesting properties if it works as claimed.
I am looking for a photo of a K-75 with the "T" windscreen on it. The diagrams off MAX-BMW Parts and REALOEM just aren't enough to put the windscreen/fairing back together. I'm finishing a restoration and have the "T" screen and a bunch of parts. Not sure if the parts are correct for the bike...
When attempting to replace the battery on my 1993 K75S it attempted to start immediately as soon as
I made the cable connections. The folks at Bob's BMW (MD) suggested it was probably the starter relay
switch needed to be replaced.
It seems as if it should be an 'out with the old and...
So i have a 93 k1100lt. Got the bike used and i noticed the master cylinder glass on the front is missing. The Assembly is next to impossible to find and cant even find a new sight glass
Is it possible to go abs delete and get a new master cylinder handle to match so i can ride the bike.
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