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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
During wheel, tire, pad replace, I used an overhead lift with a rope around top steering yoke. Now, I get a fall-in condition on steering, not there before. Also, handling is tons quicker. Could a bearing have been pulled out of adjustment?
 

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If you’ve put a new tyre on this usually causes a dramatic increase in ‘fall in’. The old tyre wears to a more square profile and you unconsciously gradually compensate for that. The situation could be exaggerated if you’ve changed the tyre profile. I think it unlikely you’ve damaged anything as the front yoke is designed to take the weight of the bike.
 

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Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle tire

Exactly, I lifted the bike the same way to get the front esa shock out. See photo. The strap around the wheel is to lift the front suspension girder up and away from the radiator to make space for the shock. The weight of the front of bike is being taken through the steering head. If you've tied it up correct, there's no risk of damaging anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nope. Same tire was fine, after the lift deal the drastic tip in started. Im familiar with the new tire feel. MAybe the pressure of the rope around that area pushed against it, I dont know. Is there a test to rule out bearing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
View attachment 31709
Exactly, I lifted the bike the same way to get the front esa shock out. See photo. The strap around the wheel is to lift the front suspension girder up and away from the radiator to make space for the shock. The weight of the front of bike is being taken through the steering head. If you've tied it up correct, there's no risk of damaging anything.
Btw. Nice lift setup, bro.
 

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2015 K1300S Motosport Edition
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I'm certainly no expert. I did some independent strength testing a couple of years ago. My K1330S slid off the road, under a guard rail, and was stopped by the nose against a guard rail support post. No damage to the front suspension or frame. I rode it about 40 miles to a friend's house with no handling or ride-ability problems. I would think that hanging by a strap would cause no problems if all was in order before you suspended it. Theoretically, by lifting the nose the center of gravity was shifted aft, and there was less weight on the front suspension than when on a center stand. Check all the fasteners involved. Try some different tire pressures above and below what you started with (check your pressure gauge). Good luck.
 

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During wheel, tire, pad replace, I used an overhead lift with a rope around top steering yoke. Now, I get a fall-in condition on steering, not there before. Also, handling is tons quicker. Could a bearing have been pulled out of adjustment?
You mentioned you replaced the "Wheel" which I am assuming this would be the rim. Did you go with the same size rim or did you deviate from oem stock rim, tire size? This alone can have a dramatic impact on the bikes overall handling capabilities. I doubt the head bearing was damaged or losened by lifting the bike, you would have felt that before you got started with the other changes you made. As other posts mentioned, just replacing an old set of hoops with miles on them and putting on a fresh set of todays rubber will be a impact on handling however it is always a good impact and not one that I have ever had complaints about. Good luck sorting it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm certainly no expert. I did some independent strength testing a couple of years ago. My K1330S slid off the road, under a guard rail, and was stopped by the nose against a guard rail support post. No damage to the front suspension or frame. I rode it about 40 miles to a friend's house with no handling or ride-ability problems. I would think that hanging by a strap would cause no problems if all was in order before you suspended it. Theoretically, by lifting the nose the center of gravity was shifted aft, and there was less weight on the front suspension than when on a center stand. Check all the fasteners involved. Try some different tire pressures above and below what you started with (check your pressure gauge). Good luck.
Thanx. Also, the sluggish handling I experienced before has turned into mid size bike quickness. Bike feels much less planted, minor imperfections in the road throw the bike off big time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You mentioned you replaced the "Wheel" which I am assuming this would be the rim. Did you go with the same size rim or did you deviate from oem stock rim, tire size? This alone can have a dramatic impact on the bikes overall handling capabilities. I doubt the head bearing was damaged or losened by lifting the bike, you would have felt that before you got started with the other changes you made. As other posts mentioned, just replacing an old set of hoops with miles on them and putting on a fresh set of todays rubber will be a impact on handling however it is always a good impact and not one that I have ever had complaints about. Good luck sorting it out.
Reinstalled, not replaced. Sorry
 

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Hueydude,

OUCH!

Lifting a Duolever front end by the Steering head is problematic. Steering Damper, Ignition Aerial, upper and lower A frames and Drag links, Head Bearings and the Shock.......

I'll presume you have never weighted your machine on calibrated scales or checked your squat. This would give you a 30 second diagnostic of what the problem is and if it needs to be addressed immediately or can be deferred to your next opportune time.

From the little information you have shared, your bike is now in a Negative Squat. As our other forum members suggested/mentioned: You must stay within the Tire Sizes outlined by BMW. You change the Height of the tire, you changed the Squat, you change the linkage ( triangle Plates ) you change the Squat, you change the lengths of rear or front shocks or the Springs, you change the Squat!

You have done something to upset The K-bikes Neutral Squatted suspension. See Rider Profile Chart Below,

1. Find some friends, wife, kids, neighbors and bounce the rear, rotate everyone and bounce the front. Note the bounce, rebound, and any strange sounds coming from the front or rear linkages.
2. Look for any damage to the front end via the Maintenance Manual and a bright flashlight and an inspection mirror.
3. Squat the Bike, including Free, Static and Dynamic measurements. Determine if you are still neutrally squatted.
4. Pay particular attention to your front shock, any leaks, signs of fluid discharge? I suggest this, as if you have the original shock (Sachs, Fuchs or WP) in all probability the rod has been over extended from when you lifted the front end up and the weight hanging on the the extended rod and piston, may have allowed Nitrogen and\or oil to escape from the shock cylinder.
5. Lastly, check the links, the markings and the space gap as outlined in the manual.

If the need arrives again to perform your own front wheel and brake service, it would behoove you to purchase the front fork lift, or modify a generic rear stand to accommodate the triangular openings in the front forks.

As we have a motorcycle powered lift made specifically for servicing suspensions, On occasion. we have Eye Bolts rated at 500 Kg which we ratchet strap the rear end down to lift the front.
If the lift is unavailable, we use heavy duty Sand Bags at 20kilos each (to simulate a pillion or cargo weight) that will lower the rear onto the ground if you are equipped with a BMW Center Stand only! . Approximately 4 bags or 80 kilos will safely lift the front.


Happy Hunting

Below: The Latest Squat of a 2008 K1200S, Service Manual Inspection Checks, and The BMW front Stand.

Handwriting Font Whiteboard Gas Signage

Automotive lighting Font Automotive design Personal protective equipment Automotive exhaust
Wheel Automotive design Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
Sports equipment Tire Scale Camera accessory Line
 

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Just a quick question and not trying to start a forum war. When carrying the front wheel or full acceleration which relatively slowly unloads the front suspension, or when going over road irregularities such as railroad tracks which will abruptly unload the front suspension, both on a repeated basis for several years, is the shock subject to gas or fluid loss?
 

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I do the way you describe all the time when I change the front tire. I use a strap suspended from my garage ceiling and with the bike on the center stand pivot the front end off the ground enough to remove the axle and the tire. Never have had any problems. Seems it would be tough to do something to the front suspension from this.
 

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Lifting a Duolever front end by the Steering head is problematic. Steering Damper, Ignition Aerial, upper and lower A frames and Drag links, Head Bearings and the Shock.......
For real?! I have a hard time believing this. It seems like stupid engineering on BMW's part, but BMW also doesn't believe a world exists where people don't read the manual every time they take a breath.

I suspect my bike has something awry with it too, and I believe I hear a clicking from the front suspension when it bounces. I also think the solenoid is stuck for the front ESA.
 

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My bike ALWAYS hunts the turns better after a tire replacement. Don't over complicate things and just ride it, unless it's throwing you into the bushes every turn. Did you change tire Mfg? If you did then that's an issue, not a big issue but it will change the characteristic for sure.
 

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Just reread this post and you said after you changed front tire your handling is better and drops into turns is better.
So what’s the problem? That’s what you want from a new tire!
sounds like you had a craptire on there before with way to low tire pressure and you got used to that.
If the handling is better and more responsive while dropping into curves than your good to go!
Be happy and ride it.
 

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4. Pay particular attention to your front shock, any leaks, signs of fluid discharge? I suggest this, as if you have the original shock (Sachs, Fuchs or WP) in all probability the rod has been over extended from when you lifted the front end up and the weight hanging on the the extended rod and piston, may have allowed Nitrogen and\or oil to escape from the shock cylinder.
5. Lastly, check the links, the markings and the space gap as outlined in the manual.
I think I have some sort of clicking in my front end. How would you recommend I check it?
 
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