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Discussion Starter #1
I'm hoping to get some advice relative to a diagnosis of a final drive failure relating to the crown bearing failure and grooved axel.

I have had this 2009 K1300GT for about 2.5 years. I purchased it used with about 13,000 miles on it and have put about 10,000 miles since. I had the annual service performed at the dealer this spring which included final drive fluid change with no feedback from them regarding any concerns about the final drive.

The last few rides I had taken, I occasionally felt a brief odd vibration sort of like a patch of rough pavement. It wasn't repeatable and was very subtle so I didn't think it would be fruitful to have looked at.

This past weekend while at highway speed I again felt the vibration but a bit stronger. When I could stop and check on it, there was a lot of grease slung onto the disk brake and rim from the center hub. To avoid doing any further damage, I stopped riding it and took it in to the dealer to be checked out. Having done a bit of research, I was hoping it was just the main bearing and perhaps some seals ($500???).

The estimate from the dealer is for a complete final drive for a bit less than $2,000 plus an hour of labor to install. :(

So.....where do I go from here? I love the motorcycle and being 6'7" there aren't a lot of bikes that fit me.

I am thinking about calling BMW customer service to see if they will do something for a 5 year old bike that is in otherwise great condition that has only made it 2/3 of the way through the original 36,000 mile warrantee distance (but 2 years beyond the 3 year warrantee).

It seems prior years/designs of the final drive were notorious for failure but it seems to be better the the more recent bikes. Might it make sense to find a used final drive from a k1300gt or K1300s that was low milage and perhaps totaled due to front end damage? If used is viable, what price would be reasonable?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I guess that is one vote for fix it using used parts.

I'm taking a shot at asking BMW to help me out with the repair cost despite being out of the warranty period. I spoke to them on the phone and they are going to get back to me in a few days. At least they didn't say no outright.....so there is hope.

So for the moment I am in a holding pattern.
 

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EricS said:
So I guess that is one vote for fix it using used parts.

I'm taking a shot at asking BMW to help me out with the repair cost despite being out of the warranty period. I spoke to them on the phone and they are going to get back to me in a few days. At least they didn't say no outright.....so there is hope.

So for the moment I am in a holding pattern.
MaxBMW (CT store) was very good to me, as a repeat new bike customer, in presenting my case to BMW for replacement of an ABS module ($1,800 part plus labor) on my 2008 K1200GT that was out of warranty with low miles. We ended up splitting the cost. Better than nothing, and the alternative of getting it repaired by a third party didn't exist then.

As the BMW tech writer told me, if you use second hand you may always wonder if the part will fail.(Funny though, if you get new you KNOW it MAY fail :)

In this case I would put in the latest version second hand, low miles unit I could find and hope for the best and pocket the money I saved for later contingencies.
 

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First, see what BMW may cover (if anything).

Second, look at picking up a used, low mileage drive and installing that.

I've had good luck with Rubber Side Up, and it looks like they have a FD that might work.

Be sure to verify which bike it came off of. The K12/13GT and the K12/13S have the same 2.82 gear ratio, while the K12/13R has a lower 2.91 gear ratio (although it should bolt up and fit just fine).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm hoping that my patience and calm approach with BMW customer service will be rewarded with a positive outcome. I think I would be satisfied if BMW picks up 50% of the cost of the part. I would spend the $1,000 to have a FInal Drive with zero miles on it and some kind of warranty on the part itself.

The Drive that is currently On rubber side up/eBay has 37,000 miles on it. Hopefully it was maintained properly by the prior owner...but I just wouldn't know. Given the $1500 differential between new and used, I'd probably take the chance with the used.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well......BMW customer service called me today and is not willing to provide any assistance with my final drive repair citing that it is beyond the 3 year warranty period despite only having 24,000 miles vs. the 36000 mile distance warranty.

I am obviously disappointed but not entirely surprised. As a small business owner, I would feel more responsibility for material or workmanship issues with anything I created and sold to a customer. I generally don't do extended warranties preferring to keep the upfront money, in this case it looks like I get to cover it all myself.

The price of BMW parts seems to be a bit like the price of name brand prescription drugs...they set the price and you pretty much have to pay it. :yeow: Checking the costs for the ABS or the ESA shock is also rather troubling....hope they don't go out too!!!

So I'm thinking real hard about going the used part route given the cost differential. I'm just worried that a used one may be near its end of life for a rather critical component. If it was a piece of the Tupperware or the seat or mirrors or something then I wouldn't hesitate to go with used parts in ok shape.
 

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Call this guy first and run it by him. He's in Charlottesville VA.
http://www.largiader.com/shop/

He does excellent work and prices are good. If yours can be rebuilt he will get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks moymurfs. I called Anton and spoke to him today. He said that there is a chance at rebuilding it depending upon the extent of scoring damage to the axle. Doing the rebuild is still pretty expensive given the likely parts and labor involved. I think he said it would be in the neighborhood of $800-$1,200.

Anton was very friendly and seemed very knowledgeable. He also offered to help with a used final drive if I head that direction and could evaluate my damaged one if I wanted to rebuild it as a spare or to sell off. I will definitely keep him in mind for future needs or if I have any troubles when riding in the Charlottesville area.

I have a feeler out for a local final drive from someone selling off a k1300gt as a parts bike. He says the bike was well maintained but a clutch failure buggered the motor. It has 31,000 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My search for a good used final drive over the last several days has not turned up a viable candidate. Beemer Boneyard didn't have one and wasn't comfortable going after an insurance auction bike that looked like a possibility. There seemed to be some in the UK that were recalled units for some failing paint/coatings.....not sure how BMW is letting them out to market.

So I'm sucking it up and getting the new part from BMW....at least I will have some form of parts warranty on it. The guy ordering the part said that the ordering system indicates there is just 1 available in the USA. So either these things are failing a lot and they can't keep them in stock or they are rock solid and there has been little need to replace them so they don't keep much in inventory. I'm hoping for the rock solid option.

Anyway...it will be a few days before the part arrives and I can get back to motorcycling bliss.

Thanks for the input and listening to my sorrows.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I hope this is my last post on this topic for a very long time!! I picked up the my K1300GT yesterday after the repair with a new final drive unit. I'm hoping for for some good late fall weather to take her out for a test ride to convince myself that I did the right thing. I'm thinking this is like child birth, once the pain is over and the joyful relationship kicks in it will all be worth it. :)

Here's a snapshot of $2,000 worth of German engineered parts that came off the bike. I'm not sure what I will do with the parts but just wanted to see what was so dang expensive. The part at the top right definitely does not turn smoothly. I took a look at the parts fiche and the bearing may be replaceable but who knows if what they roll on is toast too.
 

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Another one

I've been having some trouble with mine. 2009 model, 16k miles.
I was getting some vibration, particularly on decel in shifts. And occasionally a nasty judder when shifting. Felt like gearbox, drive or rear wheel.
Changed the final drive oil (180cc) as a precaution, inspected and greased the splines on the shaft. nothing noted.
Then a few weeks after its getting worse, noticed oil on the rear hub and possibly metal dust.
Oil seems to be coming from the outside (left) seal.
I didnt overfill, it was done with a graduated syringe.
But since it doesnt feel right i think its more than just the seal.
Theres some play if i rotate the final drive input with a knock sound. And a fair amount of play if i push the disc side to side (wheel off at the moment)
Mines out of warranty, so no sure if i take it to the dealer or do the bearings myself.
Did anyone get this done out of warranty by BMW? Its not right a 16k mile bike has this.
 

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I had a fair bit of play when the wheel was rocked from 12:00 to 6:00. Factory spec is .5mm cold as measured with a dial indicator. Mine was well in excess of that. A private BMW repair shop replaced the crown bearing for about 600.00. The repair was done at 25K miles and I now have close to 50K ('09 KGT). There is still a bit of play but not as bad as before. I had no leaks or vibrations...your situation may be somewhat worse than mine.

There are lots of sad stories on various forums by riders who failed attempts to get out-of-warranty repairs done by BMW. Some brave souls have done the repair themselves. It seems that correct shimming of the new crown bearing in very important. I felt the job was beyond my modest repair skills. BTW, I attempted to contact Anton Largardier with no response.

Good luck!
 

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Info i read was that there are no longer shims in the new versions.

But I just noticed theres a recall for the rear wheel flange, it looks to me to be part of the hub. Seems to me that they will have to replace the hub& bearing to do that, or a whole final drive. I'm going to find out about the recall, and see if it can be done.
 

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hoss said:
Info i read was that there are no longer shims in the new versions.

But I just noticed theres a recall for the rear wheel flange, it looks to me to be part of the hub. Seems to me that they will have to replace the hub& bearing to do that, or a whole final drive. I'm going to find out about the recall, and see if it can be done.
Sorry, but no. They replace the rear wheel flange alone. They exchange the potentially cracked aluminum flange for a stronger steel flange. That's all.

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=52991
 

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Well i finally got mine done. The bearing had failed in the final drive.
I tried with the dealer, the country office, and BMW head office - i always got sent back to the dealer.
Finally they offered to do it for cost price parts (40% discount) and 50% labour cost.
Not really happy being that it was a premature failure not due to me, but its the best deal i could get.
 
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