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The Gov
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Discussion Starter #1
Just dropped off my GT for it's 6K. Dealer suggested they change the oil in the final drive. He told me that NA is now recommending an oil change in it at the 600 now and that it would be a good idea to change mine as well.

Awesome day, took me 160 miles to get to the dealer 40 miles away :ricky
 

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philspace said:
Just dropped off my GT for it's 6K. Dealer suggested they change the oil in the final drive. He told me that NA is now recommending an oil change in it at the 600 now and that it would be a good idea to change mine as well.

Awesome day, took me 160 miles to get to the dealer 40 miles away :ricky
I'll be changing mine at 12K . . . not too far off. :)
 

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I see the drain plug.
But where oh where do we fill at ???
 

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The Gov
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Discussion Starter #4
Holy crap! I just looked it up and wished I hadn't. It's not a big deal, but it's sure looks like a PIA.

Here are the steps ala BMW:

  1. Remove the cover, losen the clamp and remove the muffler
  2. Remove the rear wheel
  3. Remove the brake caliper
  4. Remove the rear speed sensor
  5. Release the paralink at the rear and support the final drive with a strap (it's now flopped down, with the fill plug at the bottom
  6. Remove the flexible gaiter, pull the bevel-pinion shaft out of the universal shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down.
  7. Remove oil drain plug (1) and drain off the oil.
  8. Install the rubber gaiter, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal shaft. If necessary, turn the universal shaft gently back and forth to facilitate this operation.
  9. Use retaining strap to secure the rear-wheel drive so that it cannot drop.
  10. Put the drain plug back in
  11. Reconnect the paralever link
  12. Fill the final drive with oil via the speed sensor hole
  13. Grease the speed sensor O ring and put it in the final drive, followed by the greased speed sensor and then install the screw.
  14. Put the rest back together
Don't you wish you hadn't asked. Now I know why they are adding a drain plug to the 07's. I think this is important. A friend of mine on an R12GS had his final drive fail at 17K while riding back from the ALCAN 5000.
 

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philspace said:
Holy crap! I just looked it up and wished I hadn't. It's not a big deal, but it's sure looks like a PIA.

Here are the steps ala BMW:

  1. Remove the cover, losen the clamp and remove the muffler
  2. Remove the rear wheel
  3. Remove the brake caliper
  4. Remove the rear speed sensor
  5. Release the paralink at the rear and support the final drive with a strap (it's now flopped down, with the fill plug at the bottom
  6. Remove the flexible gaiter, pull the bevel-pinion shaft out of the universal shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down.
  7. Remove oil drain plug (1) and drain off the oil.
  8. Install the rubber gaiter, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal shaft. If necessary, turn the universal shaft gently back and forth to facilitate this operation.
  9. Use retaining strap to secure the rear-wheel drive so that it cannot drop.
  10. Put the drain plug back in
  11. Reconnect the paralever link
  12. Fill the final drive with oil via the speed sensor hole
  13. Grease the speed sensor O ring and put it in the final drive, followed by the greased speed sensor and then install the screw.
  14. Put the rest back together
:wtf

This is why God invented the service department.

Brian
 

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The Gov
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Discussion Starter #6
bnblazer said:
:wtf

This is why God invented the service department.

Brian
Yup. It's really not that bad, but I hate the smell of gear oil, they can do it.
 

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philspace said:
Yup. It's really not that bad, but I hate the smell of gear oil, they can do it.
The taste is even worse! :D

I think the boys over at advrider have a more simple way to do this. Riding those new GSes with the sealed drives.
 

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The Gov
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Discussion Starter #8
messenger13 said:
The taste is even worse! :D

I think the boys over at advrider have a more simple way to do this. Riding those new GSes with the sealed drives.
Yup, same sealed drive we have = '06 R12GS with failed final drive, left Ilmostro stuck in BMF Ontario waiting on a new one after the Alcan 5000. I think they are the reason BMW has changed their mind about "sealed" and changing the oil.

Here's a picture of what the final drive looks like in "drain" mode :eek:
 

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Wunnerful. :mad:

Sounds like the infamous "RT splines never need lubing" that exisited in the past.

Now that I have 2500 miles on the '06 GT (and I doubt if they did a rear fluid change when it was in for the 600), I wonder what the drive is gonna be like down the road? Least I got the 7 year warranty just in case.

but still.....

So what oil should be used in the final? Red Line Shockproof maybe? Weight? I'm thinking of balancing the rear tire with the Marc Paynes balancer and may as well flush out the darn final while I got the wheel off.

On the old 100K miles RT, I put some moly-disulfide goop in the drive and tranny, maybe a couple of ounces. Never had a drive or tranny bearing failure, but the tranny and final pinion seals did leak and needed changing around the 7 year mark.
 

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The Gov
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Discussion Starter #10
Manual says .22L of Castol SAF-XO, which is a full synthetic
 

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It seems like you could also use a suction pump with a hose through the fill hole to remove the fluid. You would have to agitate the fluid to try to suspend and particulate but that could be accomplished by spinning the wheel a few times to mix the oil up. Now I know this would not be as correct as the factory way but it sure has to be better than doing nothing. I have not removed the fill plug to see the clearance in the final drive so I dont even know if you could put a hose in there. Maybe I will take a look and get back to you.
 

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not to bounce the final drive - but

GMack said:
Wunnerful. :mad:

Sounds like the infamous "RT splines never need lubing" that exisited in the past.

Now that I have 2500 miles on the '06 GT (and I doubt if they did a rear fluid change when it was in for the 600), I wonder what the drive is gonna be like down the road? Least I got the 7 year warranty just in case.

what about the 7 year warranty? BMW? Third party warranty? Honda offers it's own extended warranty but everything I read says BMW does not offer any extended warranty.

So....what extended warranty did you buy ....if you don't care to share...

Drive oil....beside what the dealer recommends....ProLong Lubricants made a believer out of me when my 502cuin 600HP Mercruiser lost it's water pump running flat out in an Eliminator Daytona. We're going 65+ and the wife says she smells something hot. I stop the boat and lift the engine hatch....bottom line the engine was so hot it was melting the exhaust hoses. ProLong engine treatment saved the engine - I only lost 2 to 3 lbs static compression and no drop in oil pressure once I cleaned up everything.

Throw a couple oz of ProLong gear lubricant in the full synthetic....IMHO.
 

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Statmaster
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Hey Clickr,

I had a Pinnacle after-market warranty on my LT. It picked up the rear drive, ABS unit, and rear main seal on my LT (about $5500 of work total). You can get a Pinnacle warranty anytime during your manufacturer warranty as long as you still have more than 1 month left. If I keep my GT past the warranty period from BMW, I will get another one from Pinnacle.

Talk to your dealer. It's usually best to get an after-market warranty that works with your favorite dealer. They might even sell it.
 

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The Gov
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Discussion Starter #14
Did the same thing on two of the RT's I kept past the BMW warranty. Scrambled and bought the Pinnacle warranty, but knock on wood, never had to use it. Good to know their claim process works.
 

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philspace said:
Did the same thing on two of the RT's I kept past the BMW warranty. Scrambled and bought the Pinnacle warranty, but knock on wood, never had to use it. Good to know their claim process works.
So that's approximately $2K down the drain. That's the way I see it anyway. Food for thought...
 

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The Gov
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Discussion Starter #16
messenger13 said:
So that's approximately $2K down the drain. That's the way I see it anyway. Food for thought...
A little under 1200, but yup, although it did help in selling one of them, moved quickly since the warranty was transferable, new buyer came up with cash up front at my price only because of the warranty.

Haven't done it since, for some reason they are gone before the warranty expires :leer
 

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nice to know there is an alternative

Thanks for the information and it is nice to know there is some choice in the marketplace if I choose to purchase it.
 

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I didn't put much stock in the fact that BMW was claiming the rear-end was 'sealed' and would NEVER need to have the fluid changed. That just didn't pass the common sense test!

I noticed last week that the rear end on my '06 has started seeping (showing dirt collected on the rear drive cover, just like my '03 GT did on more than one occasion. It had the rear seal replace 2 or 3 times, of course it had over 70k miles on it.

My bike is going in for it's 12k service this week, so it'll be interesting to see what they have to say about the 'never has to serviced' rear-end!
 

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Maybe BMW should say it like this:

The 'new & improved' final drive is a sealed unit that never needs maintenance. At least, not until it actually shows signs that it does indeed need maintained. Then, and only then, does the 'new & improved' sealed final drive need maintenance. But not a moment sooner.

Yea...I like that. :D
 

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philspace said:
Holy crap! I just looked it up and wished I hadn't. It's not a big deal, but it's sure looks like a PIA.

Here are the steps ala BMW:

  1. Remove the cover, losen the clamp and remove the muffler
  2. Remove the rear wheel
  3. Remove the brake caliper
  4. Remove the rear speed sensor
  5. Release the paralink at the rear and support the final drive with a strap (it's now flopped down, with the fill plug at the bottom
  6. Remove the flexible gaiter, pull the bevel-pinion shaft out of the universal shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down.
  7. Remove oil drain plug (1) and drain off the oil.
  8. Install the rubber gaiter, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal shaft. If necessary, turn the universal shaft gently back and forth to facilitate this operation.
  9. Use retaining strap to secure the rear-wheel drive so that it cannot drop.
  10. Put the drain plug back in
  11. Reconnect the paralever link
  12. Fill the final drive with oil via the speed sensor hole
  13. Grease the speed sensor O ring and put it in the final drive, followed by the greased speed sensor and then install the screw.
  14. Put the rest back together
Don't you wish you hadn't asked. Now I know why they are adding a drain plug to the 07's. I think this is important. A friend of mine on an R12GS had his final drive fail at 17K while riding back from the ALCAN 5000.
Hey guys,
I have another method to change the final drive oil in my K 12GT 2007. I have a fairly expensive hand held vacuum pump that will not only suck the oil out but when you revere the lines you can fill it. I take that 3 o’clock fill screw out and I insert a 5/16 OD tube in there. You will hit the gear. When that happens slowly turn your wheel in reverse, this will feed the tube all the way to the bottom. Suck the oil out. Now I take the side of the pump that I used and insert it in the new oil. I then insert all the way down again the tube that will be filling the final drive. As I pump you can see the oil coming out of the new oil bottle, going through the pump and into the final drive. I slowly pump until the oil starts to over flow. Then I slowly pull on the tube at the same time turning my wheel forward/counter clock. I take it out the insert it again this time only about 1/2 inch. In the same way... slowly turning the wheel this time clock wise. Then I pump some more oil until it starts to overflow. Take the tube out and insert the screw. Works great.
 
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