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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My final drive has a little more lash in it than I'd like, so today just for grins I put it on the center stand and grabbed the wheel top and bottom. It moves a tiny, almost imperceptible amount, but it definitely has just a little movement to it. I didn't put a dial indicator on it, but I'd guess I can get .005" side-to-side movement at the rim when I move the wheel back and forth by hand. Similar result when I grab it front and back and wiggle. It's enough that I feel a very slight thunk as it moves, so it's not just the tire. My reading suggests that the play should be zero, so that's a bit concerning.

What I haven't done yet is sort out where, exactly, the movement is coming from. It could be the crown bearing, of course, but worn pivot bearings will also allow a bit of movement. It's also possible that it's the sum of the internal clearances of half a dozen bearings and is nothing to worry about.

This weekend I'm going to drain the final drive oil and see what comes out. Meanwhile, any thoughts from some of the more seasoned folks here about what to look for?

Meanwhile, the clutch that I'd asked about a couple of months ago seems to be holding up fine despite a bit of fluid leaking out between the clutch housing and the transmission case. I've put about 7k miles on it so far, bringing it to about 32k. I had anticipated needing to do the clutch soon and figured I'd lube the splines at that time, but if the clutch continues to work without complaint I may end up needing to lube the splines before I do the clutch.
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R
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You have two issues that are leading to failures and money. That final drive needs a rebuild and Your infamous 19x4mm O-ring by the engine rear main seal is leaking. The oil has probably compromised the friction disk, and close inspection of the pressure plate and clutch housing surface is needed. Time to collect data and figure out your repair approach. Yes, money is involved but once both are taken care of you will again have a bike ready to finish out the next 100K miles or way more. (unless you have not replaced the OEM rubber brake lines yet).
 

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Hold the brake as you shake the wheel.If still play then it is pivot bearings and/or swingarm bearings.Or stick your thumb in there somewhere between parts as someone shakes the wheel?

Not much point in starting discussions about FDs until you know for sure where the play comes from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not much point in starting discussions about FDs until you know for sure where the play comes from?
I had not realized that holding the rear brake would isolate the swingarm pivot bearing movement from crown bearing movement, though I can see how that works. I'll give that a try and see how it feels.

As far as the clutch, I'm going to put it off as long as possible and hope to get to the end of the riding season before I have to tear into that, though whether it has enough miles left in it remains to be seen. I'll have the parts on hand by the time I need to do it, and I plan to replace the pressure plate as well as the disc to avoid having to take it apart and inspect everything, then wait for parts to arrive from the UK. The cost difference is down in the noise, and in any event I could scarcely spend as much getting this bike up to snuff as I would have spent on something newer and less suited to what I want in a bike.
 

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I had a tiny amount of final drive play that bmw pointed out and wanted to rebuild or replace it!
Its now 10 years and 32k miles later, still running fine! no more play than then or any other symptoms including heat.
 

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I had a tiny amount of final drive play that bmw pointed out and wanted to rebuild or replace it!
Its now 10 years and 32k miles later, still running fine! no more play than then or any other symptoms including heat.
But your bike isn't a Brick K1200RS/GT.
 
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