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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been missing the top case like I had on the ST. Finally got the painted case mounted on the GT. Mounted it a little bit different. Bought a rear rack assembly from a crashed bike and a plastic GIVI plate and mounted it directly to the BMW rack. Little lower, little further forward and more parallel to the running line of the bike.
Hopefully it will hold up.
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I've been wanting to do something similar. Did you fab those arms that support the rear of the GIVI plate? Did you drill mounting holes in the BMW rack? How is the front of your GIVI plate held in place?

I've got a set of GIVI arms, but I don't have the brackets that run from below the seat to the middle of each arm to tie it into the subframe, and those look like a pain to fabricate. The RS/GT GIVI arms are also designed to fit with an M2 plate, which appears not to work with any current GIVI box, so if I used those I'd have to adapt them to an M5 plate. At this point, it seems like it would be easier to do something like what you've done to mount a GIVI plate than do all the design and fabrication to make the GIVI arms work.
 

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The whole units sits atop the silver luggage rack. I drilled 2 holes in the rack to bolt it down. It’s about the best method I could find to attach it due to every joint being plastic. It’s very sturdy with that small kicker or support on the back. It should work for us- I didn’t buy anything aftermarket it’s just bolted down tot he original gray rack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, that's a pretty good reply based on observation, and close, but a tiny bit more to it than that. Follow up with some pics this evening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, here goes.
Used a M5 monokey plate. Got that off eBay for $25. I bought a rack assembly from a wrecked bike since my GT rack was in nice shape and I didn't want to bugger it up if I didn't like it.
First off I drilled the 3 screw holes that hold the two sections of rack together and tapped it for 1/4 stainless socket head screws. Be careful not to drill through.
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In the picture above you can also see the threads protruding from the front GIVI mounting holes.
I wanted the case lower and slightly more forward than the GIVI arms end up so you can see in the picture below that I sanded the GIVI plate to match the radius of the stock rack/grab bar.
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To your earlier question, yes, I did drill the factory rack (but just the rear section not the grab bar section). Two holes for the forward mounting holes in the GIVI plate and two for the posts for the uprights (just 1/2 inch round rod drilled and tapped on the bottom end).
The salvage rack was already drilled where someone had stripped a mounting screw so nothing lost. Anyway, ran the same type 1/4 socket head screws up through the plastic braces, rack, and into the fabricated uprights.
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So... The front two bolts in the GIVI plate thread directly down into the factory rack and the rear 4 thread into flat stock welded to the uprights.
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Thanks for the writeup and photos! I love what you did with it - I think I'll end up doing something very similar, and I appreciate you sharing your idea and pictures of how you made it all work.

Does it end up sitting level when you're on the bike?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pretty close. I wanted it tipped forward just a little to strike a balance between level and the top line of the bags.
Here is a full side shot from a little day trip over the weekend. Gives better look at alignment. It's just accidental, but the mounting angle put the front bottom side edge of the M5 plate at more or less the same angle as the side of the factory luggage rack. I'm sure there's a way to make a clamp on arrangement to avoid drilling holes, but I pretty much stole the extra factory rack assembly, $50, and didn't want to put that much thought into it. Basically had $75 plus shipping in the parts, plus a few nuts and a bolts.
Probably cost me as much to prime, base and clear the lid
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