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Hello chums - I have a diagnostic question about the front end of a 2006 1200GT.
About 3/4 of the way through a 1500 mi trip in to the Catskills and around, we (my spouse was the passenger for the first time) found the front tire was starting to show the cords on a Road Pilot 3. It was Labor Day weekend. No way finding a tire and getting it serviced on Saturday night, in the Catskills. I swear the tire was fine before we left.
Before we left, I had been noticing shaking / pulsing from the front brake when braking at 30+ mph and I checked the pads. The pads on the right inside pad was definitely getting hit harder than the others. So I installed 4 new EBC HH pads and bled the front brakes etc.
Decided to go anyway because I didn't want to lose the $1000 in hotel reservations.
Anywho, brakes were still pulsing all the way thru to home. It felt like I had a warped rotor. I know, I know, it isn't probably a warped rotor.
Thankfully got home, replaced the front tire and now I feel a front end wobble at slow speeds and vibration at higher speeds.

My first thought that maybe it wasn't balanced right. But would bad balance show itself as a wobble at slow speeds?
Bent rim? Anyone that commutes to work in Michigan can attest to the road conditions here and I have hit a couple potholes (pits to hell) that scared the crap out of me. Nevermind the mini-mountain speed bumps because the heaving of the concrete here.

The two problems may not even be related.

Any ideas of where to start would be great.

PS. if it is the rim, what other models can I steal from that fits the K1200? I was thinking RS of the same vintage.
 

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Eric

One problem might be the ball-joint on the front Hossack suspension. It can tighten and get 'notchy' or even feel loose, especially if you've hit a few big potholes - I can't tell you the number of times I stopped and got off my 2005 K1200S convinced that I'd got a puncture. The difference in front end feel on my 2015 K1300S is so much better.

I guess you could test this by putting the bike on the main-stand, getting a pillion on to push the back end down and grab those lower 'fork' legs to feel for tightness or play.

Hope you get sorted, David
 

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Could be a number of things going on here. What tire did you replace the old one with? Some tires can induce a slow weave and this has been well documented, in particular on the previous generation bricks. Did you sort the pulsing brakes? Replacing the pads is not a fix or even a bandaid for the problem. You need to be sure none of the pistons are sticking. If one rotor is hotter than the other there is a very good chance this is (one of) your problems. If the brakes get very hot and you come to a standstill and leave the brake lever pulled, heat from the pads is trapped against the rotor and may leave very small deposits of pad material on the surface of the very hot rotor. This will then feel like a warped rotor, and if you have a sticking piston or two, the problem gets worse. The fix is to give the rotors a very good rub down with Emory paper or wet and dry sand paper. Start with a coarse grade, say around 320 and work up to 1000 with plenty of soapy water. The pistons in the callipers need to be thoroughly cleaned (DON’T use brake clean products as they react with the piston brake seals. A tooth brush and warm soapy water works well enough although you can use other products. You should do this every time are fitting new pads or undertaking a brake fluid change. Personally I would remove the wheel from the bike and remove the rotors from the wheel so you can give everything a thorough inspection.
 
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Check your wheel bearings too. Check by either removing the wheel and stick a finger in the bearing and rotate it. Should be perfectly smooth and no other movement than rotating. Or, not as easy, block bike on stand so wheel is off the ground and grab it with two hands opposite of each other. Try to move the wheel and carefully look at the wheel axle joint. Two of your symptoms are covered in failed wheel bearings.
I use scotch brite on brake rotors along with spray brake cleaner.
PR3's are notorious for looking okay but worn out. Move on to PR5's or something else.
Wheel carrier ball joint failure is presented by the symptom of the front end weaving at 25 or 30 mph. Gets worse if you ignore it and you find your bike changing paths in corners.
 

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Sometimes that pushing is caused by an uneven build up of brake pad material on the disc. Grab some brake cleaner and steel wool and give your discs a clean
 

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did a long study on what rims would fit the K12/13GT.
There was a couple of years the K-R matched and fit, but no matching colors
The K-R and the K-S will fit but do not Match
 
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