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Unlike the K1200LT, the GT presents what may be a new challenge to you...or your tool collection. :wtf In order to remove the front axle of your new GT, you'll need a 22mm Allen wrench, or a 22mm driver socket. Those are expensive, and can be hard to find. But what's worse is that you have to spend all that money for a one-purpose tool! :rant

Well I DON'T THINK SO! . . . There's a better, cheaper way to get the job done. And chances are you already have the tool in your tool box. :yeah:

Go get your 1/2" drive, 13/16" Spark Plug Socket. Mine's made by Easco, but I'm pretty sure that the Craftsman socket will work just the same . . . like THIS ONE on eBay. You see the bottom of that socket...well guess where that fits? Tada! Right inside the GT's axle. An extension inside of that, and then your ratchet, and you're GOLDEN! :thumb:

Hope this helps...
 

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The Gov
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Good catch, and I have one. Last go around I borrowed my son's generic front axle wrench.

Thanks
 

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The Gov
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messenger13 said:
It's a trick I learned from the Ninja forum. Works with most Jap bikes.
My son spent the bucks for the tool, this is going to kill him :leer
 

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Front Axle

Seems My Old Double Ended Box Wrench Works Just Fine. The Large End Fits The Axle And The Smaller End Hex Is Just Fine For Any Wrench That Fits It....

Rusty
 

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Success! :D

Had to make a hex out of a grade 8 bolt that needed to be ground down just a bit. Fit really snug as I miked it in. Frenched up a couple of nuts with some "J.B. Weld." Got a 15/16" deep 1/2" drive impact socket with a Posi-Drive shape (Orchard Supply had Craftsman one for $11). Impact gun was next step.

Before the gun, I took a long 1/2" breaker bar with a 3 foot piece of iron pipe to try and make the thing budge. It made a huge POP and squeaked like hell for a few turns. Very odd even though I soaked both sides with "Break-Free" and allowed to sit overnight along with the special tool that was setting up.

Looking at the axle, it may have had some Lock-Tite on it, but is seems a bit corroded where the nuts resides. Maybe water? I don't think BMW's like getting baths as the old RT showed corrosion on some of the plug in wiring connections. New ones seem better for that.

Only other thing I could conceive of was the fork may have gotten a bit tweaked in the fall over as the impact made a good ding in the old Moto-Light that was mounted to the brake caliper?

Anyway, I took the impact gun and ran the thing in and out a few times (fine valve lapping compound on the threads) while the wheel was off to loosen it up a bit. It now goes in and out as it should.

Whew!

Front Avon tire took no weight at all. Stock Metzler Z6 had maybe 30 grams on it. These things look more triangular in appearance so they should fall into turns easier. Seemed like they weigh less than the Metzler did too (lack of steel belt?).

Now out to adjust and aim the Moto-Lights tonight and get some canyon twisting in before dinner before that.
 

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Front wheel nut

Seems My Old Double Ended Box Wrench Works Just Fine. The Large End Fits The Axle And The Smaller End Hex Is Just Fine For Any Wrench That Fits It....


I meant to be clear. It is the double ended box end wrench from my R1100 R (oil head) kit that fits just nicely and has a convenient smaller end for any crescent or sized wrench.

Rusty
 

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My dealer threw the BMW "optional" tool kit in with my deal on the bike. It too has one of those "box-end" wrenches Rusty's referring too, as well as a Torx 50 for the rear wheel bolts among several other items including a spanner to use on said box-end wrench. It's actually quite a nice quality piece of kit. In its own roll, it fits quite nicely in the rubber strap under the pillion seat along with the tire inflater kit he also provided.
 
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