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Discussion Starter #1
G'day everyone.
I've noticed that my 2004 RS had water pooled in the lip of the drain around the filler inlet after washing it this week for the first time (my first time since purchase). Fuel cap looks fine re seals. I also noticed the finish in this drain assembly is a little tarnished, so this may have been a problem with the bike for a while.
You may remember that the bike is a very low mile (3000 mile) unit so has been sitting around a lot in Saudi Arabia!
Any ideas on how to ensure the drain pipe is functional from the filler cap gutter (sorry for the terminology, I haven't looked the part name up on the parts fiche.

Thanks for any advice.

Ken.
 

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The hose that connects to that drain is normally route down to the bottom of the bike next to the other vent or drain hoses.
You should be able to blow though it.
I would open the fuel cap and cover the fuel tank inlet with a plasitc bag or tape and use a clean air sorce like the small cans we use to clean off the computer keyboards and blow though the drain hole to clear out the hose or find out if the hose is connected correctly.

Hope that helps.
 

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Mine also stopped draining. Went to get gas after a rainy night and found the rim full of water. Blowing air is a great thing . I disconnected the line from the bottom of the tank and ran a thin wire (guitar string) up from the bottom like a drain snake. It freed up a bunch of gunk, (rust like, dirt etc) and bunch of dirty liquid flowed out. I then used some compressed air at a relatively low pressure sitting and blew from the top. It has drained good since.

NCS
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Fuel tank Water Drain

Thanks Bazra and Stephen.
I'll give it a go this weekend before I wash the bike again. I'll let you know how I went.
I appreciate your help fellas

Best wishes from Oz.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmm.
I just tried the air down the drain line,(and up) with no sucess. I also tried the light wire down and up the drain again, with no success. I'll steal a guitar string from my wifes guitar tomorrow and thy that. I removed the mounting for the fuel filler and couldn't see a blockage, but the wire would not go past the elbow (initial 15 mm). I'd say with out fail I have a blockage just after the elbow at the fuel filler drain.
I'll get back soon.

Ken.
 

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I checked mine tonight, one of the two tubes does have a valve of some sort fitted and the other is a blow straight through (drain tube). The one with the valve type thing in it is the fuel expansion vent from the tank itself, the blockage you mentioned could be the valve. Could somebody have possibly put the tubes on the wrong way round (would be inside the fuel tank)? Have you had a fuel filter service recently or any reason to take the filler cap/fill tube out?

There should be nothing in the drain pipe that an 'E' string would not shift as the fuel cap is closed most of the time. If something had crawled up the other end the 'E' string would have no problem shifting it.

As I said before so long as your fuel cap has remained closed then the only way to block it would be somethig crawling up the out end.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey fellas.
Well, I'm a bit of a dick head. It wasn't the fuel tank drain I've been plugging away at. It was some blind ended tube on the right hand side???
I can't for the life of me identify the fuel tank gutter drain line.
Any idea where it could be?
I've done a search on my 2001 K1200RS manual and that's no help.
What a great day.
The bike has the blocked fuel gutter, and a buggered quick disconnect on the Rt hand side, I've been trying to update the bios on my computer and that sucks, I went to install a new FAST AMD CPU, dropped the thing and bent lots of pins (magnifying glass and dental probe fix).
And to top it all off, our pet pig is fairly crook (sick).
I was going to get mildly drunk in protest but all I have in the fridge is low alcohol beer, Sharlene's gone to work (Police Officer) and I've had enough Scotch and Dry to just get me over the legal driving limit so I can't get myself any more Scotch!!!
One of those days!

Best wishes all.

Ken
 

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Hi Ken

Here you go, on the right hand side of the bike, just by the Q/disconnects there are two black tubes coming out from under the fuel tank pump/filter. They go to and behind the rear footrest and emerge in between the shaft drive and the exhaust, just a little to the rear and below the rear footrest. If you look through the centre of the rear footrest mount you should be just able to see them.

If you pull them both clear, of the foot rest and blow up them, one at a time, one will feel like its restricted (it is) but will let air pass through, this is the fuel vent. The other tube should be clear and when you blow up it you should hear the air at the filler cap escaping.

Have a look at page 73 (00.64) of your manual, it shows the breather and the drain tube and where they connect. Page 174 (16.5) shows a photo of the tubes exiting the fuel filter/pump housing (Numbered 2 in the photo).
 

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Where my vent tube collected gunk was on the tank side of the connection at the bottom of the tank. That was were when I used a wire like a drain snake it freed up the block. I was working from that connection, not from the bottom end of the vent tube at the rear wheel..

NCS
 

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Just joined the site looking for some info on the same subject. I've read some great pointers.

Water around the fuel cap is something to keep a regular eye on. I got caught out the on Monday after a rainy weekend, the bike cut out in the fast last on the motorway. Water in the fuel tank caused by blocked drain pipe, again. It's a common problem with the GT and RS apparently, so my mechanic tells me.
 

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Haydn said:
Just joined the site looking for some info on the same subject. I've read some great pointers.

Water around the fuel cap is something to keep a regular eye on. I got caught out the on Monday after a rainy weekend, the bike cut out in the fast last on the motorway. Water in the fuel tank caused by blocked drain pipe, again. It's a common problem with the GT and RS apparently, so my mechanic tells me.

The fuel cap can sometimes be pushed down on the first click, but isn't sealing. I've had this happen after a motorway fillup and the first clue is a smell of gas up front. Push the cap down really hard and it's ok.

The outer parts of the cap can easily fill up with water. If the bike is out in heavy rain these outer parts can fill up. If you open the cap just after a downpour and there's a flood of water into the gas tank, then the drains are blocked.

I did a test on mine by squirting some fuel around the outer parts with a syringe. Whilst some of it went down the small drain hole, I also thought some fuel escaped through the slots in the bezel - so I'm not sure if the small hole is the only way water gets away and it's been a long time since I suffered the pain of dismantling the cap and lock assembly.



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Discussion Starter #13
G'day Derrick.
Yep, the slots go nowhere but allow water etc to drin into the one little drain pipe.
It's got me buggered. I have the bike in pieces replacing the quick connects and I still cant find the outlet line for the tank gutter drain line. I Think it may go into my Charcoal canister.
I'll look into it tomorrow.
Best wishes mate.

Ken.
 

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Oh Yeah......I just had to deal with that yesterday, what a P ....in the A.....that job turned out to be.......!

I had to pull the painted cover out to clean it when I noticed the screws coming out had corrosion on them. Took the whole thing out and what a pile of s....t was under there. It seems that even with the drain working water can still collect between the flange and the tank causing corrosion because that part is LOWER than the drain. The "gasket" was all crooked in there, covered with some kind of failed hardened sealer that was very hard to remove and the flange was all corroded too.Very bad design from BMW.

That gasket does not even fit the hole very good, so it was tricky to reinstall.I reinstalled it with gasket sealer that won't harden so it will make it easier to remove again as I am going to check if BMW may have an updated gasket for that. If not I will make my own I think. For now I will keep my fingers crossed that it won't leak.

Very very bad design to have to remove the fuel cap to remove the plastic....everytime you do that the gasket flange assembly can move unless it's well glued in there.And if you are not very careful reinstalling it is easy to push the gasket sideways or even by not tightening the cap in sequence. Anyone have any toughts on what to use to seal that gasket? I do not trust sillycone too much for that kind of work, it does not work well on plastic like that fuel tank.

I will have to go back in there eventualy to fix it permanently, and will somehow seal the area between the tank and the outside of the flange as it is where the water comes from.
 

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at the bottom of the tank are 4 connections.. (seen with right side cover off.)
from my memory starting from the bike and moving outward, # 1 and #2 are for drain and tank vent to charcoal canister. #3 and #4 are the fuel lines. It is important that the drain line not go to the charcoal canister. A bit of masking tape helps make a label for them as you are working. The drain one goes backwards thru the frame to exit down near the paralever. The other goes to the charcoal cannister first before exiting down near the paralever. . The bottom of tank connections from that point and forward one goes to the internal venting of the tank, the other the external/flange drain. Both need to be clear. Having a piece of additional hose (even some aquarium tubing) that is about 5 feet long allows you to put it on the tank connection/junction and then blow to see where air comes out,, inside the tank or at the flange.

Now if you asked me to make a bet on which one is the drain connection, my mind says pick connection # 2 but this was done 6 months ago..
NCS
 

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Thanks, I put the air line through mine and as I said, when I pour in some gas it disappears.

What I hadn't appreciated was even with a small shower, that drain well gets water in it so keeping the drain working seems quite important.

Most logical gas cap designs would try hard to stop water getting that close, so I do find this recessed drainage thing quite screwy. Why didn't they make the flap a proper cover seal in the first place and the drain to catch any water falling in if you had the gas cap open when filling up in the rain?



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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Stephen.
I have that area exposed, so will look at it tonight. For some reason, I've been looking on the left hand side, as in a previous post, someone suggested that. Not sure if this thread.
Thanks again.

Ken.
 

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Thanks guys.....now I had to go check if I had reconnected the drain hoses properly....that is drain to drain and vent hose to the charcoal canister......and the book does not say anything about the canister!!!!!! Was not looking forward to take everything apart again! :yeow: By the way where is the charcoal canister?

What I did, I blew back into the hoses with my mouth, one had no restriction and air came out the drain, the other one had a slight restriction so I assume I was blowing back through the canister. Everything looks OK so far. :)

My drain hose was not plugged originally, all that corrosion in there was caused by the water going under the flange with nowhere to drain , but possibly in the gas tank, due to the bad seal on the gasket. That gasket looks like one of those toilet to tank seal, with a worse fit.....anyhow I did flush the tank, found quite a bit of old sealant in there, will run the bike a bit and change the fuel filter.

Thanks again! :clap:
 

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If you think that gasket is a bad fit, I hope you haven't got the older pump gasket setup, 'cos that's even worse and guaranteed to leak after you swap a fuel filter.

I actually liked the simpler form of the gasket they used on the sender and found you can fit that gasket on the pump flange. However, they got a bit sloppy with the gasket cutout size and could have made it cover more of the tank for a better seal.

I bought a sheet of 2 or 3mm nitrile rubber and re-cut the sender and pump gaskets both to the same template with more cover over the ABS tank, smaller more accurate holes for the flange fixing screws and slightly larger diameter than the flanges.

Absolutely no leaks afterwards.



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old thread, but..

realise its an old thread but one of the few I could find talking about this... lots of good info about keeping the drain hole cleaned.
Picked up a K1200GT (2005) on the weekend and while doing some minor fixes and checking things over noticed what looked to be rust inside the filler area.
Sounds pretty common, but how bad can it get? Since this bike is now 8 years old since first sold but "looks" otherwise very well maintained... should I be concerned at the amount of "rust" or staining shown in the pic below? I've already wiped out what I could with a rag...

 
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