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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know or can find out if the newer K1300S float type fuel level sensor will work in a K1200s. I'm reading that so many people are replacing fuel strips just to have to replace them again in a few months or miles. My fuel strip has quit and I'm looking at replacing it, but if I'm just going to have to replace it again, I'm looking for a more permanent solution.
Did I see on this forum where someone had added a resistor to get the yellow triangle and flashing fuel light to go out?
It is annoying and if I'm going to use the odometer as a fuel gauge, I would like to get the lights cancelled. Seems a shame on supposedly a German engineered, technologically advance motorcycle they can't get a simple fuel gauge to work.

Thanks
du907
 

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I just bought a k1300s fuel level sending unit on the bay for $21 shipped to my door. The connector is identical to the strip they used on the K12s so will see how well it works and reads. Worst case I am out $21... best case we make this work and get rid one one of the quirks of these bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Fuel Strip

Rtzx9r,

I have done the same. I ordered a used K1300s float sending unit off Ebay and I'm going to give it a try. I have looked up the part numbers on the K1300s for the sending unit and it appears the same part number from first K1300s on up is the same. Looking at the pictures of the K1300s sending unit with the normal float and resistor setup, there are two wires. These two wires would be the normal setup from one side of the resistor to the other, sending the the resistance values to the computer. The fuel strip has 4 wires. Two wires are from each side of the strip that reports to the computer and the other two wires are for a heater for the strip. The old school setup doesn't require a heater so these two wires are not needed. Now I don't know if the two wires from the resistor are in the same place on the plugs, so that will have to be determined and switched as needed. My other thought on this is the resistance value that the computer is looking for from the fuel level sensor (in our case weather it's the strip or the float). The computer is looking for a resistance value from the sending unit to determine how much fuel is in the tank. In the float version the float moves up and down in the tank moving the lever which tracks across some wire windings that sends a value to the computer. The strip would read the pressure of the fluid on the strip as the gas level goes up and down in the tank and sends a resistance value to the computer. So the question is if the resistance values from the old school float and the original strip are compatible or close in range. I don't know. If they are close, the metal support for the sending unit on the float version could be bent a little to make final adjustments (calibrating so to speak). My other thought on this is the resistance range. Hopefully someone who designed the software used the similar values. For example, if the strip uses values say 100 to 500 for its range and the computer is looking for something in this range as opposed to the float type sending unit was designed to use say 1 to 10 for it's value set. If needed a resistor could be added onto the the float type sending unit wiring to change the values to the range the computer would be looking for. Just thinking out loud so to speak. I don't really know, maybe someone has this information or can figure a way to find it. It is definitely worth pursuing to fix this problem. A good winter project for sure.

du907
 

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Rtzx9r,

I have done the same. I ordered a used K1300s float sending unit off Ebay and I'm going to give it a try. I have looked up the part numbers on the K1300s for the sending unit and it appears the same part number from first K1300s on up is the same. Looking at the pictures of the K1300s sending unit with the normal float and resistor setup, there are two wires. These two wires would be the normal setup from one side of the resistor to the other, sending the the resistance values to the computer. The fuel strip has 4 wires. Two wires are from each side of the strip that reports to the computer and the other two wires are for a heater for the strip. The old school setup doesn't require a heater so these two wires are not needed. Now I don't know if the two wires from the resistor are in the same place on the plugs, so that will have to be determined and switched as needed. My other thought on this is the resistance value that the computer is looking for from the fuel level sensor (in our case weather it's the strip or the float). The computer is looking for a resistance value from the sending unit to determine how much fuel is in the tank. In the float version the float moves up and down in the tank moving the lever which tracks across some wire windings that sends a value to the computer. The strip would read the pressure of the fluid on the strip as the gas level goes up and down in the tank and sends a resistance value to the computer. So the question is if the resistance values from the old school float and the original strip are compatible or close in range. I don't know. If they are close, the metal support for the sending unit on the float version could be bent a little to make final adjustments (calibrating so to speak). My other thought on this is the resistance range. Hopefully someone who designed the software used the similar values. For example, if the strip uses values say 100 to 500 for its range and the computer is looking for something in this range as opposed to the float type sending unit was designed to use say 1 to 10 for it's value set. If needed a resistor could be added onto the the float type sending unit wiring to change the values to the range the computer would be looking for. Just thinking out loud so to speak. I don't really know, maybe someone has this information or can figure a way to find it. It is definitely worth pursuing to fix this problem. A good winter project for sure.

du907
You make the change in the bike zfe and dash, ie the computers to let it know wich type of fuel level sensor you have, no need to add resistors or cut wiring.

I recall having seen in my k1300s 2009 values under coding in motoscan about sensors, will look next time i get to the bike. Since the k12 and 13 are basicly the same bikes the siftware is the same just different values activted but all values are there for all K4x series bikes, even for policeversions. they are just not active but can be activated by a a single press on the button.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mattias_r,

Your post sounds even more encouraging as to this might be a great permanent solution. I read the thread you posted and I have a question. What type of interface would you suggest to buy to make the changes in the zfe and dash. I have BMW cars and SUVs and have some OBDII software but nothing that can make those programming changes. I noticed in the thread several devices and programs for iphones, androids, and computers. I checked the links and most went to European sites. As I live the US I would be looking around here for a supplier.
What would suggest?
Thank you
du907
 

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Thanks for all the above support! Looks like I need to find an android device or a way to get motoscan working and then should be a fun challenge to try and make work. Regardless, if all of us can figure this out, it’s a big win for our bikes that have bad strips.
 

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Hi,

I am looking to buy an OBD link MX+ and adapter cable then on to get the Motoscan software. I am encouraged by the positive reviews on this setup VS the GS911 route.

I have a 2007 K1200s and want to be able to reset the service indicator as a very least but also have a general play..

I watch your post with interest....
 

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I just ordered the MX+ and the cable from Amazon late last night. ~$110.
Should be here by tomorrow COB.
I would have gone with just the MX or even the LX, but I have Ford & GM vehicles that I want capability for.
Cheers,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
53driver,
Let us know how the MX+ and cable works out. If you will, check and see with the Motoscan software if this setup lets you have the choice of disabling the "Inductive fuel sensor" for the ZFE as mentioned here. This will go a long way to fixing a problem so many are having. I have ordered a K1300s sending unit and I have the Motoscan software, just waiting to see if the MX interface works for setting the ZFE. Then hopefully if I can get to my bike in the garage (I'm in the process of restoring a 1966 Mustang so I have stuff everywhere in limited space) I will remove the gas cap and get my wife to put her hand down inside the tank (my hand is to big to pass through the opening) and unplug the fuel strip and get this fix on track.

Just check and see if these options show up:

from Mattias_r post: (I changed to reflect K1200s)

Connect the cable find your bike on the list (K40 (K 1200 S, K 1300 S)) in my case..
Go to "Central Chassis Electronics (ZFE)"
and find Thermo Coupler FLS 08 and change the value to Potentiometer. Press CODE
Next, find INDUCTIVE FUEL SENSOR change to"deactivate" press code.

Thank you!
 

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I ordered a MX+, 10 to 16 pin cable, and an android tablet (iOS family) to give this a try as well. Once I get those and the fuel level sending unit, will post an update.
 

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Ok... got my MX+ directly from OBD Link on eBay, Used fuel level unit from eBay ($22), and Android tablet and 10 to 16 pin adapter thru Amazon.

MX+ is defective out of the box. Won’t connect to Bluetooth on two cars and two IOS devices (despite reading the directions on how to do it). The company also purposely does not publish a phone number to call. It’s going back...

Android tablet off amazon (Fire tablet) doesn’t have the motoscan app in their limited selection of apps. It’s also going back.

New android (non amazon) tablet coming and will try another MX+ off amazon.
 

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Thanks Mattias. If I were in the EU would have pulled the trigger. I ordered an OBDLink MX off amazon for $59.99 new, on sale from $79.99. Hoping it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Houston we may have a problem

All,

I did some exploratory surgery tonight to see how the K1300s float part I got matched up to my original K1200s parts.
I have included some pictures for comparison. My original gas cap and tank ring is metal with the mounting bracket for the the fuel strip toward the front of the bike. The K1300s part is plastic and the mounting bracket goes toward the rear of the bike. I believe the float mechanism will fit in the tank and move freely. However, the immediate problem is the plastic mount. It will fit and align with fuel tank opening with rubber gasket and seal but it has a raised lipped at the opening which will not allow my gas cap to close. If you notice the original metal piece it is quite flat. I imagine we might check to see it the K1300s gas cap is interchangeable but that will increase the cost.

So by changing to a float we would need the K1300s float with mount. We would need to flash the ZKE to disable the strip and enable the potentiometer, and (if it works) change to a K1300s gas cap which means dealing with the key lock.
I was looking at the brackets and I could cut the fuel strip bracket from the original mount and weld the bracket from the float to it, thus maintaining the original gas cap with key lock. I'm not sure how to check everything so the float reads the correct levels as it reports to the ZKE, make a bunch of measurements I guess.

Thoughts and suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think Scantool.net is the USA distributor for OBDlink MX if you have troubles with Amazon.
 

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53driver,
Let us know how the MX+ and cable works out. If you will, check and see with the Motoscan software if this setup lets you have the choice of disabling the "Inductive fuel sensor" for the ZFE as mentioned here.......Thank you!
Du907,
My MX+ and cable are here, they paired up and spoke to my Android just fine.
The Motoscan version Lite basically doesn't do anything except read a few things.
I think I need to pay the $50 to upgrade to their "Super-Duper-Professional" version before I can give yo a proper reply.
Probably doing that this weekend.
I'll report back unless it's already OBE.
Cheers,
Steve
 
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