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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
All,
Got my OBDLink MX yesterday from Scantool.net and got a cable from Amazon. Just plugged in my 2006 K1200s and used the Motoscan app on my phone. Everything connected. First pare the OBDlink with the phone. Then plug into the connector under the seat in the tail section. Turn on the motorcycle, don't start it, just turn it on. I picked the K40 for my motorcycle. I'm looking for the place to change the LCD dash screen (ZFE) to read a regular float type fuel sensor instead of the fuel strip so that the display will read the fuel level correctly when I replace the fuel strip for a float sensor. See posts above. If I remember correctly in the Motoscan App. . . .

Pick "K40 . . ."
Then"Central Chassis Electronics (ZFE)" section there is a place that allows fuel strip calibration. However, I'm looking for the place to change the setting from fuel strip to potentiometer.
Choose "Coding" at the bottom of the screen.
Then under "Thermocouples FLS" you will see "foliengeber" with a down arrow.
Pick the arrow and you will see "potentiometer".
This is where you change to potentiometer. Foliengeber is German roughly translated to fuel strip.

Float sensor= potentiometer
Fuel Strip= foliengeber

Conclusion:
Programming-wise we can change from fuel strip to float sensor (see pictures in above post). Now we have to work out the difference in the fuel cap/filler tube for the fuel strip and float sensor. If the K1300s gas cap, filler tube and float sensor will directly interchange with K1200s unit then I believe we have a solution here. Even if the float sensor is a little off reporting fuel level, the float's rod can always be bent a little to adjust for accuracy and the fuel light and yellow triangle light will be turned off.

Thoughts?
du907
 

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du907,
Thanks for all the work you've done with this!
Did you have to get the super-duper Motoscan or did it do it all with the "Lite" version?

I really hope the K1300S parts fit!
I also hope I'll never need to do this!

Cheers,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Mattias_r
See my post above with photos.
The K1300s red plastic filler tube/flange with the float type sensor is on the left. My K1200s metal filler tube/flange with fuel strip sensor is on the right. Other photos show me holding my fuel cap on the red plastic filler tube/flange and the fuel cap will not close because of the raised part of the red filler tube/flange. This is the difference.

53driver

Yes, the lite version just lets you "see" how it works. You need to upgrade to at least the professional version to write code back to the computer.
 

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Get the k13 fuelcap and rekey it ? Tanks are the same on them.

From november 2007 the filler cap is also the same on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Solution - Step by Step Coming!

All,

I got the K1300s float sensor off Ebay for about $22 USD. The lip on the red plastic flange was to high for my gas cap to close (see pictures above). Well that's not all that didn't work. The opening in the red plastic flange is also not big enough. I was grinding the lip down and testing it against my gas cap when I noticed that no matter how much I would grind the lip down it would never seal against my gas cap.
So I took the metal rod mountings off the red plastic flange, did some measuring, and had my guy cut the old fuel strip rod mountings from my metal flange and weld the float mountings to my metal flange, took about 10 minutes (see pictures). You have to make sure you twist the mounting to match the way it is on the red plastic flange and distance from bottom of flange to the mounting. Now I did some research and found this part on Ebay in the UK. It must be a later up-grade for the K1200s. If you will notice where the overflow hole is located on the red plastic flange and this black plastic flange you will see that the black plastic flange has a larger opening and the lip is low just like my metal flange. I believe you could just buy this black plastic flange (about $25 USD) and just un-clip the metal mounting for the fuel strip and take the K1300s float sensor mounting and clip it on this black flange and put it in the tank, do the programing, and be done. I'm going to install my metal welded up flange over the weekend and will update this thread with the results.
I believe this will make a permanent fix to the K1200s fuel strip problem.
du907
 

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Du907,
You're doing greatness!
I hope that it works out for and for all of us!
Cheers,
Steve
 

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I was able to get a K1300S float style sending unit to properly mount in my 08 K12s tank.
1. You need to drain the fuel, remove the tank, and unscrew the big bulkhead where the pump etc is.
2. Disconnect the blue connection for the fuel strip, and remove it from the top of the tank.
3. The fuel strip is connected to the black filler neck via a chrome rod that snaps onto the black piece beneath the filler hole. This simply snaps off, and you snap the float style bracket off the red filler cap on the new unit. It simply snaps onto the K12s black filler neck piece in the same manner as the strip mounting tab did.
4. Insert the new fuel gauge into the tank, connect the blue connector, and replace the bulkhead and large nut.

At least this far, things are looking good and zero cutting or modifications are required.

Then comes the programming... I was able to go under ZFE with motoscan and change FLS08 to potentiometer as well as inductive fuel sensor. (Credit here... https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/509657-Fuel-strip-to-float-conversion-complete-guide).

At this time I am not getting a reading on my fuel gauge and suspect it is due to a bit more wiring. Regardless, we’re all getting there. I’m going to research the wiring schematics more this weekend.

Edit... this is what my fuel tank parts looked like. They must have made a change along the K12S Years...
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
rtzx9r

I too did all what you said today. My bike like you said must have come with the older metal fuel flange. I tried for a long time to get it installed from the top of the tank. First my wife could get her hand in the tank but could not undo the plug. So I went to Harbor Freight and bought a pair of very long needle nose pliers and was able to undo the connector. While I was fiddling with everything I let the overflow drain hose fall into the tank and it started letting fuel out all over the garage floor. Anyway, the hardest thing was messing with that overflow hose. I didn't get it located correctly so I too took off the tank, unscrewed the retaining ring and straightened the hose out and got it out of the way. It belongs on the right side of the tank away from the float. Did you notice how much shorter the wire and plug is with the float sensor as oppose to the fuel strip? Probably to keep it from getting tangled with the float, which the fuel strip doesn't have that problem.

To all reading this; the K1300s float DOES fit in the tank correctly and moves freely up and down. I used a coat hanger to hook the float rod so I can move it up and down to test it. I have it all put back together but have not done the programming yet. I'll do that tomorrow and let you know if I get anything different.

Maybe this from the referenced post?

"Now time to make it work
For the ZFE to be able to read the new sensor you need to swap the pins in the main connector pin 34 (green with red trace )and 35(brown with blue trace) needs to be moved to 21 and 37 on the ZFE connector
Picture 2
Check the pictures on how to disassemble the connector and remove blanking pins.
After removing transparent retainer push on the black and white inserts they will come out then remove the top part by pressing four little clips in every corner
Next, remove blanking pins in the location 37 black connector and 21 white connectors.
Swap the cable and insert blanking pins in the old locations 34,35 this will stop moisture going into the connector"

We'll get this worked out I'm sure.

I thought the black plastic flange would work out. That's good to know.

du907
 

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DU907 - we’re getting there. I’m not sure where the ZFE connector is at, but going to find it and give it a go. If it works out I’m going to be super stoked.
 

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Dang! Look at both of y'all gittin' 'er done!
Thanks so much - in advance - for solving a potential future problem for me!
Cheers,
Steve
 

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So I am looking at the wiring diagrams and not seeing what we need...

Here is a snapshot at the wiring diagram from the post I linked above on a r1200gs. It shows two different sending units for the fuel level sensor...

On the K1200s wiring diagram, this is omitted and only the fuel strip is shown. As a result, I think all we can do is see if the ZFE harness has a space in the harness plug for #21 and #37 as the R1200GS diagram shows and move current plugs 34 and 35 to them. If so, that may be our pathway to make this work. Otherwise, it may not be possible.
 

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I tried the above with changing pins 38 to 37 and 39 to 21. With the settings of potentiometer and deactivated for the inductive setting, no changes to the fuel gauge. :sad :cussing:

Any other thoughts? Luckily swapping pins is very easy. Now off to work on some headlight probs on my 99 996s Duc. Sigh.
 

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Should you not move 34 to to pin 21 and 35 to pin 37 ? are you in the correct connector?

here is a pinout schematic of a k1300s, there is a A and B connector, 58 pins in each. Same on the k1200s?
 

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Oh, almost forgot, look i the dash/kombi under coding, and the mot/ecu. Might be settings i all three that need changning for it to work, remember this bike uses can wich is a network.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I got mine put back together last night also.
First. I didn't change a thing. I used a coat hanger wire to move the float up and down and no reaction from the fuel gauge and light.
Second. I reprogrammed the ZKE to use potentiometer. Turned everything off. Turned back on and again moved the float up and down and no change. Still fuel flashing and yellow triangle.
I have not changed any wires yet.
I was thinking maybe the ZKE was expecting an ohms reading from the original pin locations when programmed to fuel strip. That didn't work. By reprogramming to potentiometer would mean that the ZKE was NOT expecting a signal from pins 34 and 35 but a signal from pin position 21 and 37? So by moving wires/pin 34 & 35 in connector (followed through wiring harness would wind up at the connector in the tank that the float is now plugged into) to position 21 & 37 in connector when plugged back in, now a signal would be present at pins 21 & 37 that was not there before and the ZKE would read this signal and be happy.
????

Thanks for the pictures, they help a lot.

du907

1st pic is float bracket welded to my metal flange.
2nd pic shows alignment of float bracket to flange. Notice overflow hole, this should face exactly to left, sending unit to back of tank.
3rd pic show plug at bottom of tank
4th pic shows sending unit plugged in
5th pic is coat hanger hooked to float for install and testing.
Like I said above, I got the overflow hose tangled up with the float. I had to remove the tank and go in from fuel plump side and straighten things up. I would recommend removing tank and removing the fuel pump and going through that opening. Much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
It works! It works!

TO ALL,
We are trying to replace the fuel strip in a K1200s with a float sensor like installed in the K1300s to permanently fix the unreliable fuel strip. I make no guarantees that this will work for you, do any modifications at your own risk. I do not endorse any products. Products mentioned here are just the products that I used.

What you will need:
1. A K1300S float type sensor (pic 1).
2. A later type black plastic filler tube/flange (pic 2) If you have an earlier model with a metal filler tube/flange (pic 3) you will have a little welding to do.
3. An OBDII blue tooth scan tool (OBDIIlLink MX from scantool.net $59.95) and a OBDII to BMW 10 pin plug adapter (from Amazon $14.95)
4. A couple of very small crimp style clamps for overflow hose.
5. The Motoscan app from google play for android and from Apple for the iphone. The app is free but is a demonstrator app. You will have to upgrade to the Ultimate version to do this fix $59 or so.

Procedure:
1. Remove the gas tank body work, the battery cover (disconnect the battery), the tank center piece, the gas cap. Pull the filler tube/flange up and out and remove the fuel strip from the bracket. Remove the overflow hose by cutting the clamp. Set the black plastic filler tube/flange aside. Remove the gas tank by removing the spool bolts at the back and work the tank up and back enough to get your hand between the tank and the battery to disconnect the two electrical connections, the overflow hose, and be very careful the fuel line. Press the chrome retainer in and wiggle the hose connector out.
2. With the tank on the floor or work bench remove the large retaining ring to remove the fuel pump assembly (pic 4). Remember the overflow hose is connected to the assembly and the filler tube/flange. Unplug the fuel strip from the assembly on the inside tank side and discard. Take the fuel strip retaining ring off the black plastic filler tube/flange and attach the K1300S float sensor bracket back onto the black plastic filler tube/flange with the sending unit aimed towards the rear of the bike. The overflow hole should be exactly to the left looking forward on the bike (similar to the metal one shown in pic 5). Use a couple of fairing bolts to hold the flange temporarily in place.
3. Plug the float sensor into the plug on the fuel pump assembly where the fuel strip was plugged in. The plug only fits one way. Make sure you bend and route the overflow hose towards the left inside of the tank away from the float, very important Finish inserting the pump assembly making sure to line up the large tab on the bottom with its matching place in the gasket. Reinstall the large retaining ring. Install the gas tank sitting it in place and leaving enough room to get you hand in between the tank and the battery and plug the two electrical connectors back in, hook up the overflow hose, and put some die-electric grease on the gas hose o-ring and wiggle it into place. Finish setting the gas tank in and install the spool bolts at the back.
4. Now move to the left side of the bike at the module and work the plug out by pulling down on the retaining slide (pic 6). You will just have to figure this out, it's hard to described. Now pry off the back of the plug. It slides out away from the wires. Next pry up the plastic tabs a little (red arrow pic 7) and work the plug locking slide toward the back and off. Now remove the short white plug at the top end of the plug. Then remove the longer white pin from the back of the plug (Pic 8). Now press with some force the white electrical and the black electrical plug out of the main plug housing (pic 9). Cut the zip tie. Find the empty Pin position 21 in the black plug and empty pin position 37 in the white plug (pic 10). There is a plastic plug in these positions that you will have to work out by using a paper clip and pushing it out backwards (pic 12 & 13). NOW THE IMPORTANT PART! Using a pick push down on the pin's open slot to release it. Push out Pin 34 with green/red stripe wire in the white plug and insert it into pin position 21 in the black plug. Then push out pin 35 with brown/blue stripe wire in the white plug and insert into pin position 37 also in the white plug (pic 11). Now put it all back together. Push the white plug and black plug back into the main plug hosing until they click. Insert the longer white plug into the back and the short white plug into the front. Push the locking slide back into the grooves and pass the locking tabs until they click. Now slide the plug back back into the grooves and push until it clicks. Install a new zip tie. Plug the plug assembly back into the module.
5. Take the OBDIILink MX and plug into the adapter cable and hook up to the plug under the seat in the tail section. A green light comes on. First blue tooth pare the device to your phone. Start the Motoscan app and up on the left check settings for communications and that you are connected. Pick K bikes, then K40 (K1200s & K1300s). Move down to "Central Chassis Electronics (ZFE)" section. There is a place that allows fuel strip calibration. However, we are looking for the place to change the setting from fuel strip to potentiometer.
Choose "Coding" at the bottom of the screen.
Then under "Thermocouples FLS" you will see "foliengeber" with a down arrow.
Pick the arrow and you will see "potentiometer".
This is where you change to potentiometer. Foliengeber is German roughly translated to fuel strip. Select Code to make the change. Backup once and look for fuel strip to disable it if shows up.
Close the app.
6. Now with the coat hanger wire with a hook, fish for the float rod and gently pull up the float as if gas was in the tank (pic 20). Turn on the bike and wait about a minute or so and you should see some bars, the blinking fuel will be off and the yellow triangle gone (pic 19). Turn the key off and lower the float a little. Turn the bike on again and check that the gauge bars change in number and fuel and yellow triangle is off (pic 21). Yeah Baby!

Now how accurate the gauge is depends on if the float rod was bent during handling. You can always adjust it by bending the rod a little. Also my owners manual says that when the gauge shows empty there is 1.1 gallon of gas left in the tank. I plan on adding the 1.1 gallon and check what my gauge shows.

Thanks to Mattis_r for schematics and Rtzx9r for his help.

Good Luck!
du907
 

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