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TO ALL,
We are trying to replace the fuel strip in a K1200s with a float sensor like installed in the K1300s to permanently fix the unreliable fuel strip. I make no guarantees that this will work for you, do any modifications at your own risk. I do no endorse any products. Products mentioned her are just the products that I used.
So now all k1200s with the shitty strip can get reliable fuelsensor?

Awesome!
 

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TO ALL,
We are trying to replace the fuel strip in a K1200s with a float sensor like installed in the K1300s to permanently fix the unreliable fuel strip.

...Now with the coat hanger wire with a hook, fish for the float rod and gently pull up the float as if gas was in the tank (pic 20). Turn on the bike and wait about a minute or so and you should see some bars, the blinking fuel will be off and the yellow triangle gone (pic 19). Turn the key off and lower the float a little. Turn the bike on again and check that the gauge bars change in number and fuel and yellow triangle is off (pic 21).
Yeah Baby!

Huge, HUGE thanks to du907, Mattias_r, and Rtzx9r!

I pray I have many, many more miles before this even thinks about being an issue, but I'm going to get the parts now!
Cheers,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
For those with early metal filler tube/flange

All,
For those who have the metal filler tube/flange like I did you have two choices. You can modify your metal flange with a little welding or replace it completely with the later issue black plastic filler tube/flange. The easiest thing to do is the black plastic flange, but you may not be able to obtain one.
So here are the steps and pictures for adapting the metal flange.

1. You will still need a K1300s float sending unit which comes with a red plastic flange that you will discard (pic 1 ). It is not usable. Trust me.
2. Remove the gas cap and pull up and out the metal flange. Disconnect the overflow hose by cutting the crimp style clamp.
3. Remove the fuel strip from the bracket and move to the work bench.
4. Grind/cut the mounting bracket away from the flange ( pic 2 ). Remove by un-clipping the float sending unit and bracket from the red plastic flange (pic 3).
5. Measure and mark the distance from the bottom of the red flange down to the mounting bracket ( pic 4 ). About an 1 1/8 inch I believe.
6. Now notice the alignment of the sending unit and bracket in relation to the red flange and it's orientation on the bike (pic 5 ). The overflow opening at the top of the flange should face exactly to the left looking forward on the bike. Rotate and mark the sending unit bracket so that it goes toward the rear of the bike and aligns the sending unit resistor and float arm pivot on the center line of flange opening (pic 5 ).
7. Now spot weld the bracket to the metal flange (pic 6 ). Heat the metal overflow tube and bend it around so that it faces forward, toward the front of the bike. It is long enough and try to keep it level or with a slight downward angle. This will help keep the overflow hose away from the float and make sure the hose bends toward the left of the bike in the tank.
8. You now are ready to install your modified metal flange, change the pin locations in the plug, and program the ZKE as instructed in the above post.

Good Luck
du907
 

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Mattis_r

For you. Again Thanks a million.
DU907 How stinking awesome! And Mattias - you were 100% right I had the wrong wires swapped over on the pins. I will give this another try tonight and report back. I'd super excited again.

Wonderful news. Glad we were able to team up on this and make it work for our bikes and more importantly for others!
:teeth:hail::dance::thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Rtzx9r,
Pay close attention to which pins are which. The plugs are numbered pretty good (see pic above). I kept getting confused because of the plug being mirrored from the plug on the module. That is why I kept referring to the white plug or the black plug.
Another thing to remember. The wire colors in the plug at the end of the wiring harness. These wires now just represent wires in the wiring harness that connect to the wires that the float resistor connect to. Swapping the pin arrangements gets the signal to the ZKE. Reprogramming the ZKE tells it to start looking at these connections for it's input.

It's pretty cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I just noticed I had the white plug and black plugs switched in my write up and in the diagram I sent to Mattis_r. I have edited both and re-posted.
Sorry it was a late night.
Mainly pin 21 is in the black plug. Pins 33,34,35,36 37 are in the white plug.
 

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For the Bmw headquarters and the engineers there this must have been a known solution for the fuelstrip-problem, and an easy one to correct. Yet they did nothing more than make people buy new fuelstrips. That pisses me off, but at least now we can spread this news and let people decide what they want to do.
 

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Bike #2 confirmed working! I swapped wires as on the other page, double checked the settings in motoscan, and most importantly had to jiggle the float in the tank to get things going. I then held the float at high and low limits and the gauge corresponds, albeit slowly.

As for BMW knowing this would work.... my guess is they indeed know. However, since there are changes to wiring and hardware, my guess is the lawyers advised them to not make this change. It likely requires all sorts of formal design testing, software validation, and approvals with DOT etc. For a few bikes here and there, it is likely easier for them to try and replace fuel strips multiple times as goodwill. I know this is how it works at my company with medical devices. We engineers know what works, but we cannot promote it without RA clearance and a plethora of test data to back it up.

Regardless, we got it working!
 

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It is already tested and approved, otherwise it would not be in the software, The stuff is in the bike and some models even has both ways presented in the wiring diagrams. they did not use strips prior to 2005 and they stopped 2009. They went back to the old school way of doing it.

Kind of same thing as with the lifetime lubricated final drives...the lifetime that only lasted 2 years.
 

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The gauge is slow even on my 13, after filling up it takes up to 10 seconds after starting the bike before it changes the level. Probably designed that way so it doesent misread due to bumps and things the bike might drive in.
 

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Discussion Starter #52 (Edited)
Fuel Levels

After completing the conversion to float level sensor in the gas tank I figured I would see how I done with this change.
I had emptied the tank when I did the change over.
My owners manual stated that when the gas gauge read empty and the warning "fuel" and yellow triangle lights are blinking that I should have about 1.1 gallons of fuel left in the tank as a "reserve". So, since my gas tank was mostly empty I measured out the 1.1 gallons and put that in my tank and started the bike. As most of you know it takes a little time for the gas gauge to render it's decision on how much fuel is in the tank. After adding the 1.1 gallons my gauge basically read empty and the "fuel" and yellow triangle warnings were blinking, as they should (pic 1). I then measured out another gallon of gas and added that to the tank so now I have about 2 gallons in the tank. I started the bike, waited for the fuel gauge to be ready and the "fuel" and yellow triangle warnings were gone and the fuel gauge was showing one bar or segment above empty (pic 2).
Conclusion: I believe the installation of the float sensor has worked and now the fuel gauge is reliable and correct.
My manual says the "fuel" and yellow triangle will come on when I have 1.1 gallons left in the tank and that indeed is now true. I now have a base line of how my gauge reads and how much fuel I actually have in the tank. And now it is so much more reliable.

du907
 

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Hi everyone.
I did the conversion before you, but I did it with an ELM37, and it didn't codify me.
Change from obd to Unicarscan and perfect.
I only have one problem, the tank marks me full, and after a while reserve, then full and see how it goes down, until I reserve
I only filled the tanke once.
I hope it calibrates.
Has it happened to you? mine is K1200R
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Papapitufo

Be glad to help but I am not sure exactly what you are asking. The only way I know to calibrate or adjust the readings from a float type sensor is to bend the float rod a little to get the desired results.
du907
 

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Papapitufo

Be glad to help but I am not sure exactly what you are asking. The only way I know to calibrate or adjust the readings from a float type sensor is to bend the float rod a little to get the desired results.
du907
Hi.
Thanks for your answer.
Yesterday, check the float connections, and might not make good contact. I'm still in tests, now it seems that it marks well, half tank.
 

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Gents, how is this workaround holding up over time?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Works like a charm

I went riding this past weekend and went to gas station and filled up. Gas gauge read full, all bars up to the top and no warning lights!
I did notice the miles to empty setting read really low when I first started riding. I had a full tank but the computer posted I had only 107 miles to empty.
However the more I rode I notice the miles to empty kept going up and up to what it should be. I guess the computer had to reset or adjust to the float sensor.
Anyway, all is good. Everything is reading correctly and more accurately. Cool!
du907

Now all the rallies and events are being postponed due to the virus. I guess I will just have to make my own rallies and events. Fine with me.
 
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