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Should be ok, bike will give warning as it dosent get signals on the old wires and doesent know what to do with signals from new location in zfe.
 

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2006 BMW K1200S
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another question . is possible to make the conversion from strip to float and wiring to zfe and start the bike in order to go on my workshop just for coding? or i will fry anything?
I rode for about two weeks with the conversion in place but without making the software change. No problems just low fuel warning lights all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
Is there a definitive write-up for someone who has done the procedure? It seem all the data is scattered
Go to page 2 of this thread, Post #40. That is the step by step procedure. I've done this to 5 or more bikes. All have been K1200s and a GT. All have work. I'm more than a year on my bike and it's so much more accurate and dare I say permanent. Swapping the wires correctly and re-coding are most important.
Good luck!
 

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I rode for about two weeks with the conversion in place but without making the software change. No problems just low fuel warning lights all the time.
After the software change everything are normal ? :)
Just afraid a little with the bmw insta and gs911 Not show detail values to be change as motoscan. only a convention to float option . Nothing else.
 

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Hi Arcos,
are you aware of Costas, on the European forum.
He is a font of K kowledge, and a K mechanic as far as I know.

He might be close to you, and be able to help.
 

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I have finish the conversion today. i can confirm also that GS-911 and BMW INPA both can re porgram ZFE to floating.
many thanks to du907 for the very helpful post. #40. however i was a little bit confused with the wires because my bike has 2 fully operetional plugs because i have ESA equiped. ( just show the plug number to decide ) everything works fine.
many thanks to all that constribute for a solution to another BMW designers beer drunks issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #129 · (Edited)
Arcos,
Great that you were able to work it out. You are right, my bike does not have ESA so I only have one plug on the module. My fuel gauge has been working now for over a year. Don't forget Mattis_r and Rtzx9r, we all couldn't have fixed this problem without them. :)
 

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Go to page 2 of this thread, Post #40. That is the step by step procedure. I've done this to 5 or more bikes. All have been K1200s and a GT. All have work. I'm more than a year on my bike and it's so much more accurate and dare I say permanent. Swapping the wires correctly and re-coding are most important.
Good luck!
.....just want to clarify before I start this process.....I have a 2008 K1200GT.....this repair will work on this model?.(in just about all of the posts they mention just the S model)...Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
.....just want to clarify before I start this process.....I have a 2008 K1200GT.....this repair will work on this model?.(in just about all of the posts they mention just the S model)...Thank you
I have only done one GT but I don't know what year it was, the process did work though. Two quick checks would be with whatever APP you are going to use. If you have the header in the APP that will switch from fuel strip to float that would be one sign. The next would be if the ZKE is the same or similar. The software for the bikes is written for multiple models and is a matter of turning options on and off.
 

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It works! It works!

TO ALL,
We are trying to replace the fuel strip in a K1200s with a float sensor like installed in the K1300s to permanently fix the unreliable fuel strip. I make no guarantees that this will work for you, do any modifications at your own risk. I do not endorse any products. Products mentioned here are just the products that I used.

What you will need:
1. A K1300S float type sensor (pic 1).
2. A later type black plastic filler tube/flange (pic 2) If you have an earlier model with a metal filler tube/flange (pic 3) you will have a little welding to do.
3. An OBDII blue tooth scan tool (OBDIIlLink MX from scantool.net $59.95) and a OBDII to BMW 10 pin plug adapter (from Amazon $14.95)
4. A couple of very small crimp style clamps for overflow hose.
5. The Motoscan app from google play for android and from Apple for the iphone. The app is free but is a demonstrator app. You will have to upgrade to the Ultimate version to do this fix $59 or so.

Procedure:
1. Remove the gas tank body work, the battery cover (disconnect the battery), the tank center piece, the gas cap. Pull the filler tube/flange up and out and remove the fuel strip from the bracket. Remove the overflow hose by cutting the clamp. Set the black plastic filler tube/flange aside. Remove the gas tank by removing the spool bolts at the back and work the tank up and back enough to get your hand between the tank and the battery to disconnect the two electrical connections, the overflow hose, and be very careful the fuel line. Press the chrome retainer in and wiggle the hose connector out.
2. With the tank on the floor or work bench remove the large retaining ring to remove the fuel pump assembly (pic 4). Remember the overflow hose is connected to the assembly and the filler tube/flange. Unplug the fuel strip from the assembly on the inside tank side and discard. Take the fuel strip retaining ring off the black plastic filler tube/flange and attach the K1300S float sensor bracket back onto the black plastic filler tube/flange with the sending unit aimed towards the rear of the bike. The overflow hole should be exactly to the left looking forward on the bike (similar to the metal one shown in pic 5). Use a couple of fairing bolts to hold the flange temporarily in place.
3. Plug the float sensor into the plug on the fuel pump assembly where the fuel strip was plugged in. The plug only fits one way. Make sure you bend and route the overflow hose towards the left inside of the tank away from the float, very important Finish inserting the pump assembly making sure to line up the large tab on the bottom with its matching place in the gasket. Reinstall the large retaining ring. Install the gas tank sitting it in place and leaving enough room to get you hand in between the tank and the battery and plug the two electrical connectors back in, hook up the overflow hose, and put some die-electric grease on the gas hose o-ring and wiggle it into place. Finish setting the gas tank in and install the spool bolts at the back.
4. Now move to the left side of the bike at the module and work the plug out by pulling down on the retaining slide (pic 6). You will just have to figure this out, it's hard to described. Now pry off the back of the plug. It slides out away from the wires. Next pry up the plastic tabs a little (red arrow pic 7) and work the plug locking slide toward the back and off. Now remove the short white plug at the top end of the plug. Then remove the longer white pin from the back of the plug (Pic 8). Now press with some force the white electrical and the black electrical plug out of the main plug housing (pic 9). Cut the zip tie. Find the empty Pin position 21 in the black plug and empty pin position 37 in the white plug (pic 10). There is a plastic plug in these positions that you will have to work out by using a paper clip and pushing it out backwards (pic 12 & 13). NOW THE IMPORTANT PART! Using a pick push down on the pin's open slot to release it. Push out Pin 34 with green/red stripe wire in the white plug and insert it into pin position 21 in the black plug. Then push out pin 35 with brown/blue stripe wire in the white plug and insert into pin position 37 also in the white plug (pic 11). Now put it all back together. Push the white plug and black plug back into the main plug hosing until they click. Insert the longer white plug into the back and the short white plug into the front. Push the locking slide back into the grooves and pass the locking tabs until they click. Now slide the plug back back into the grooves and push until it clicks. Install a new zip tie. Plug the plug assembly back into the module.
5. Take the OBDIILink MX and plug into the adapter cable and hook up to the plug under the seat in the tail section. A green light comes on. First blue tooth pare the device to your phone. Start the Motoscan app and up on the left check settings for communications and that you are connected. Pick K bikes, then K40 (K1200s & K1300s). Move down to "Central Chassis Electronics (ZFE)" section. There is a place that allows fuel strip calibration. However, we are looking for the place to change the setting from fuel strip to potentiometer.
Choose "Coding" at the bottom of the screen.
Then under "Thermocouples FLS" you will see "foliengeber" with a down arrow.
Pick the arrow and you will see "potentiometer".
This is where you change to potentiometer. Foliengeber is German roughly translated to fuel strip. Select Code to make the change. Backup once and look for fuel strip to disable it if shows up.
Close the app.
6. Now with the coat hanger wire with a hook, fish for the float rod and gently pull up the float as if gas was in the tank (pic 20). Turn on the bike and wait about a minute or so and you should see some bars, the blinking fuel will be off and the yellow triangle gone (pic 19). Turn the key off and lower the float a little. Turn the bike on again and check that the gauge bars change in number and fuel and yellow triangle is off (pic 21). Yeah Baby!

Now how accurate the gauge is depends on if the float rod was bent during handling. You can always adjust it by bending the rod a little. Also my owners manual says that when the gauge shows empty there is 1.1 gallon of gas left in the tank. I plan on adding the 1.1 gallon and check what my gauge shows.

Thanks to Mattis_r for schematics and Rtzx9r for his help.

Good Luck!
du907
will this conversion work on a 2008 k1200gt ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
will this conversion work on a 2008 k1200gt ?
Good question for Greg2008k1200GT. I have done a couple of GTs but I'm not sure what year. Hopefully Greg can tell you. You can check your ZKE module on the left side of the bike. Check the plug and see if the same slots are open and the wire colors match the directions included here. Also check the gas tank part number and see if they are same. I wish I could tell you for sure.
 

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Good question for Greg2008k1200GT. I have done a couple of GTs but I'm not sure what year. Hopefully Greg can tell you. You can check your ZKE module on the left side of the bike. Check the plug and see if the same slots are open and the wire colors match the directions included here. Also check the gas tank part number and see if they are same. I wish I could tell you for sure.
Thanks for the pointers. I do have the plastic gas tank filler and I believe the k1300 has the same tanks as mine. Hopefully it will work. 3rd strip enough is enough
 

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Houston we may have a problem

All,

I did some exploratory surgery tonight to see how the K1300s float part I got matched up to my original K1200s parts.
I have included some pictures for comparison. My original gas cap and tank ring is metal with the mounting bracket for the the fuel strip toward the front of the bike. The K1300s part is plastic and the mounting bracket goes toward the rear of the bike. I believe the float mechanism will fit in the tank and move freely. However, the immediate problem is the plastic mount. It will fit and align with fuel tank opening with rubber gasket and seal but it has a raised lipped at the opening which will not allow my gas cap to close. If you notice the original metal piece it is quite flat. I imagine we might check to see it the K1300s gas cap is interchangeable but that will increase the cost.

So by changing to a float we would need the K1300s float with mount. We would need to flash the ZKE to disable the strip and enable the potentiometer, and (if it works) change to a K1300s gas cap which means dealing with the key lock.
I was looking at the brackets and I could cut the fuel strip bracket from the original mount and weld the bracket from the float to it, thus maintaining the original gas cap with key lock. I'm not sure how to check everything so the float reads the correct levels as it reports to the ZKE, make a bunch of measurements I guess.

Thoughts and suggestions.
Houston we may have a problem

All,

I did some exploratory surgery tonight to see how the K1300s float part I got matched up to my original K1200s parts.
I have included some pictures for comparison. My original gas cap and tank ring is metal with the mounting bracket for the the fuel strip toward the front of the bike. The K1300s part is plastic and the mounting bracket goes toward the rear of the bike. I believe the float mechanism will fit in the tank and move freely. However, the immediate problem is the plastic mount. It will fit and align with fuel tank opening with rubber gasket and seal but it has a raised lipped at the opening which will not allow my gas cap to close. If you notice the original metal piece it is quite flat. I imagine we might check to see it the K1300s gas cap is interchangeable but that will increase the cost.

So by changing to a float we would need the K1300s float with mount. We would need to flash the ZKE to disable the strip and enable the potentiometer, and (if it works) change to a K1300s gas cap which means dealing with the key lock.
I was looking at the brackets and I could cut the fuel strip bracket from the original mount and weld the bracket from the float to it, thus maintaining the original gas cap with key lock. I'm not sure how to check everything so the float reads the correct levels as it reports to the ZKE, make a bunch of measurements I guess.

Thoughts and suggestions.
It works! It works!

TO ALL,
We are trying to replace the fuel strip in a K1200s with a float sensor like installed in the K1300s to permanently fix the unreliable fuel strip. I make no guarantees that this will work for you, do any modifications at your own risk. I do not endorse any products. Products mentioned here are just the products that I used.

What you will need:
1. A K1300S float type sensor (pic 1).
2. A later type black plastic filler tube/flange (pic 2) If you have an earlier model with a metal filler tube/flange (pic 3) you will have a little welding to do.
3. An OBDII blue tooth scan tool (OBDIIlLink MX from scantool.net $59.95) and a OBDII to BMW 10 pin plug adapter (from Amazon $14.95)
4. A couple of very small crimp style clamps for overflow hose.
5. The Motoscan app from google play for android and from Apple for the iphone. The app is free but is a demonstrator app. You will have to upgrade to the Ultimate version to do this fix $59 or so.

Procedure:
1. Remove the gas tank body work, the battery cover (disconnect the battery), the tank center piece, the gas cap. Pull the filler tube/flange up and out and remove the fuel strip from the bracket. Remove the overflow hose by cutting the clamp. Set the black plastic filler tube/flange aside. Remove the gas tank by removing the spool bolts at the back and work the tank up and back enough to get your hand between the tank and the battery to disconnect the two electrical connections, the overflow hose, and be very careful the fuel line. Press the chrome retainer in and wiggle the hose connector out.
2. With the tank on the floor or work bench remove the large retaining ring to remove the fuel pump assembly (pic 4). Remember the overflow hose is connected to the assembly and the filler tube/flange. Unplug the fuel strip from the assembly on the inside tank side and discard. Take the fuel strip retaining ring off the black plastic filler tube/flange and attach the K1300S float sensor bracket back onto the black plastic filler tube/flange with the sending unit aimed towards the rear of the bike. The overflow hole should be exactly to the left looking forward on the bike (similar to the metal one shown in pic 5). Use a couple of fairing bolts to hold the flange temporarily in place.
3. Plug the float sensor into the plug on the fuel pump assembly where the fuel strip was plugged in. The plug only fits one way. Make sure you bend and route the overflow hose towards the left inside of the tank away from the float, very important Finish inserting the pump assembly making sure to line up the large tab on the bottom with its matching place in the gasket. Reinstall the large retaining ring. Install the gas tank sitting it in place and leaving enough room to get you hand in between the tank and the battery and plug the two electrical connectors back in, hook up the overflow hose, and put some die-electric grease on the gas hose o-ring and wiggle it into place. Finish setting the gas tank in and install the spool bolts at the back.
4. Now move to the left side of the bike at the module and work the plug out by pulling down on the retaining slide (pic 6). You will just have to figure this out, it's hard to described. Now pry off the back of the plug. It slides out away from the wires. Next pry up the plastic tabs a little (red arrow pic 7) and work the plug locking slide toward the back and off. Now remove the short white plug at the top end of the plug. Then remove the longer white pin from the back of the plug (Pic 8). Now press with some force the white electrical and the black electrical plug out of the main plug housing (pic 9). Cut the zip tie. Find the empty Pin position 21 in the black plug and empty pin position 37 in the white plug (pic 10). There is a plastic plug in these positions that you will have to work out by using a paper clip and pushing it out backwards (pic 12 & 13). NOW THE IMPORTANT PART! Using a pick push down on the pin's open slot to release it. Push out Pin 34 with green/red stripe wire in the white plug and insert it into pin position 21 in the black plug. Then push out pin 35 with brown/blue stripe wire in the white plug and insert into pin position 37 also in the white plug (pic 11). Now put it all back together. Push the white plug and black plug back into the main plug hosing until they click. Insert the longer white plug into the back and the short white plug into the front. Push the locking slide back into the grooves and pass the locking tabs until they click. Now slide the plug back back into the grooves and push until it clicks. Install a new zip tie. Plug the plug assembly back into the module.
5. Take the OBDIILink MX and plug into the adapter cable and hook up to the plug under the seat in the tail section. A green light comes on. First blue tooth pare the device to your phone. Start the Motoscan app and up on the left check settings for communications and that you are connected. Pick K bikes, then K40 (K1200s & K1300s). Move down to "Central Chassis Electronics (ZFE)" section. There is a place that allows fuel strip calibration. However, we are looking for the place to change the setting from fuel strip to potentiometer.
Choose "Coding" at the bottom of the screen.
Then under "Thermocouples FLS" you will see "foliengeber" with a down arrow.
Pick the arrow and you will see "potentiometer".
This is where you change to potentiometer. Foliengeber is German roughly translated to fuel strip. Select Code to make the change. Backup once and look for fuel strip to disable it if shows up.
Close the app.
6. Now with the coat hanger wire with a hook, fish for the float rod and gently pull up the float as if gas was in the tank (pic 20). Turn on the bike and wait about a minute or so and you should see some bars, the blinking fuel will be off and the yellow triangle gone (pic 19). Turn the key off and lower the float a little. Turn the bike on again and check that the gauge bars change in number and fuel and yellow triangle is off (pic 21). Yeah Baby!

Now how accurate the gauge is depends on if the float rod was bent during handling. You can always adjust it by bending the rod a little. Also my owners manual says that when the gauge shows empty there is 1.1 gallon of gas left in the tank. I plan on adding the 1.1 gallon and check what my gauge shows.

Thanks to Mattis_r for schematics and Rtzx9r for his help.

Good Luck!
du907
I just wanted to say that I did this fix, using the metal flange and mig welded the 1300S float on it. My bike only has 11750 on it so it's in great shape. However, the tricky part of this is getting it all back together with the float in the correct spot. I had some leaking to deal with as well from the fuel pump seal but discovered I pinched it so it was an easy fix after some playing with it. I'm on the second tank of fuel and it seems to be reading spot on. I haven't taken it to the bottom yet but at least 110 miles and it's reading it correct. Also nice to not have the blinking light on and a permanent fix so I never have to deal with it again. Thanks for the great instructions, this is well worth the trouble. Despite the dealer thumbing his nose at me for attempting it, I would suggest to anyone in lieu of dealing with that pesky fuel strip. Thanks du907.
 

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I think my parts (all Used) for the conversion were about $200. Another new owner got a $400 quote from a dealer to make the conversion but I assume that included new parts. Just some FYI for those less mechanically inclined. I am still surprised how reliably consistent the float type system is.
 

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Concur with what you said mrdryclutch. Mine was about $160. I tried to get the black plastic flange but to no avail (probably CV related) so I used the metal one and it was in good shape. Gave me a chance to practice my skills. I was doing the brake flush on the ABS which requires the tank off anyway and other maintenance so it was altogether a nice project. Curious to see how the float falls and the CPU calculates the last miles. Haven't gone that far yet. I was worried about the app portion but that worked flawlessly. It's a shame that BMW wouldn't recognize this as an option since it's installed on the K1300S.
 

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Just joined to thank you all for working this all out! I've finished doing the float conversion on my 2005 K1200s today and it works a treat! £100.00 (inc. postage) of used ebay K1300s fuel filler neck with the frame and sender; now my fuel gauge problems are gone. I did have to do a little welding, as mine's got the metal filler, but easy enough to line up when you've got the plastic one next to it in your hand. I found the K1300 float metal frame just sits on top of my original filler's strip sensor frame, so I just MiG welded them together. Had to bend the breather tube round a bit by hand to get it all to fit back in the tank. Reprogrammed using the MotoScan app on my phone via an OBDLink LX 427201 OBD tool with a Cheapo Amazon converter cable. Once done, I added fuel slowly until the low fuel light and mileage went off at around 6 litres from totally bone dry empty. To start with, I thought I try and be clever and use a later tank to match the later plastic filler I'd bought, but - of course - then my original filler cap wouldn't close DOH! So I'll be listing my un-required k1300s tank sometime soon. Anyway thanks again for working out how this could be done!
 

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Now that it is all said and done the only complaint I have is the low fuel warning light comes on at about 135 +/- miles. That would leave about half a tank of fuel remaining so it is definitely on the better safe than sorry side of the scale.
 

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Now that it is all said and done the only complaint I have is the low fuel warning light comes on at about 135 +/- miles. That would leave about half a tank of fuel remaining so it is definitely on the better safe than sorry side of the scale.
Did you use the metallic flange or plastic and just clip on the floater ? Correct Measurement has to do also with the correct height of the floating system .
 
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