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Discussion Starter #1
I have 2007 K1200 GT. It has done 16500Kms. Recently the windshield stopped to work but at times it started and when turned off the ignition it use to stop and the next time when it would is not know. Yesterday the instrument panel showed the indication that bulb is fused and when I checked all the the bulbs were working. later after 2 minutes the instrument display half down from the centre started to flicker showing the data but comes and goes.

These are the things I did:
1) Cleaned the ports related to Windshield Motor
2) Cleaned the ports related to the instrument cluster
3) Cleaned the terminals of both the ECMs. In the body panel on right and under the seat
4) Opened the meter uptill the PCB panel cleaned it dried it for any sort of moisture.( The fonts not look dark and bold than before but still the flickering is there.)

This things is really frustrating. Need help which direction should I look into.
 

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What voltage do you read at the fuse for the instrument panel? Check the Fuse to battery ground. There should be FULL battery voltage to and from the fuse, Next measure the ground with a Multimeter!! Disconnect the battery and measure the instrument cluster ground to the ground terminal on the battery neg cable,, Should be very close to zero ohms resistance. Report back the findings.
 

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Yes, first thing is to check your battery voltage. If you have a load tester use that also. If not, also check the voltage as you start it and see what voltage it drops to. Needs to be above 9.5 volts.
(I always fall for that GT model stuff and mix bikes up. The bike picture helps.)
Maybe you know someone with a GS-911 to look at the bike computer for faults?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank You Beech... Yesterday I had pulled out the battery. It was 12.47 and then charged for 3 hours had reached 13.50. Apparently he had no load testing machine. But I will visit a battery shop with the bike today and test!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Beech... The voltage before Starting 13.47. When started the Bike 10.00 and when running between 13.8 to 14.5. What needs to be checked after this? When I held the throttle to 1700RPM it moves to 1900 and comes down to 1600.
But idle is stable at 900.
 

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Samit, the voltages you report look good, but we await load test results. A battery shop near you may do it at no charge. This may not be the root of your problems, but if it's free it's certainly something to check that can resolve a multitude of issues. I've had cars run MUCH better simply by changing a battery that I didn't realize was going bad.

As they age, batteries deliver fewer amps for a shorter time. This is fine if your bike starts quickly and you do not have to "dip into" the further capacity of the battery. Eventually the reserve capacity (ability to deliver amps for more than just a quick start) is gone and troubles arise which may not seem to have anything to do with the battery. Voltage will still test good in that condition. You can live with an aging battery for a long time if your bike starts quickly, but any further stress during starting (cold weather, hot weather, momentary poor fueling, etc.) can leave you stranded.

A load test evaluates the amps that the battery can deliver for a period of say, 10 seconds, which is beyond the quick burst that usually starts an engine in decent condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Honolulu, I agree upon what you say and I have gone through those situations with my cars as well. As a matter of fact I will test the battery on load test today and report here what is the outcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Samit, the voltages you report look good, but we await load test results. A battery shop near you may do it at no charge. This may not be the root of your problems, but if it's free it's certainly something to check that can resolve a multitude of issues. I've had cars run MUCH better simply by changing a battery that I didn't realize was going bad.

As they age, batteries deliver fewer amps for a shorter time. This is fine if your bike starts quickly and you do not have to "dip into" the further capacity of the battery. Eventually the reserve capacity (ability to deliver amps for more than just a quick start) is gone and troubles arise which may not seem to have anything to do with the battery. Voltage will still test good in that condition. You can live with an aging battery for a long time if your bike starts quickly, but any further stress during starting (cold weather, hot weather, momentary poor fueling, etc.) can leave you stranded.

A load test evaluates the amps that the battery can deliver for a period of say, 10 seconds, which is beyond the quick burst that usually starts an engine in decent condition.
Hi Checked the Battery and did the load test. the program ran for 3 loads and the battery voltage never went below 10.40 Volts. Is the ground mounted on the body or it directly runs in the Canbus? If in the body do you know the right location? I have removed both the ECMs too to dry them up for any sort of moisture causing this issue.

Please advice.
 

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The battery shop knows the test and I don't. They should have told you whether your battery is "good" or not.

It seems to me that depending on the load and duration, 10.4 volts seems low but it's not as low as when you were cranking the engine. A new battery may be needed, but that decision is between you and the battery shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The battery shop knows the test and I don't. They should have told you whether your battery is "good" or not.

It seems to me that depending on the load and duration, 10.4 volts seems low but it's not as low as when you were cranking the engine. A new battery may be needed, but that decision is between you and the battery shop.
The battery shows Good on the test meter. What can be done further?
 

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Then let's assume the battery is good, or good enough.

As I read the first description, the windshield will not travel as is should, and the instrument cluster display is not as bright as it should be. Apparently the problem may lie in whatever controls the cluster display.

Unfortunately BMW has made almost NO information available about how these bikes are supposed to work. That makes it very difficult to owners to learn how to repair the bike. We don't even know if the display is controlled by the engine ECU (box under the seat) or the ZKE (box inside the right side fairing). However I suggest making sure the connectors to the instrument cluster are in good order and securely connected; also that there is no apparent damage or poor connection at the ZKE unit.

If nothing can be found, it's time to visit a dealer who will connect the computer, relay the information to Munich, and tell you what may be wrong.

If you get better information, please relay it to this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Then let's assume the battery is good, or good enough.

As I read the first description, the windshield will not travel as is should, and the instrument cluster display is not as bright as it should be. Apparently the problem may lie in whatever controls the cluster display.

Unfortunately BMW has made almost NO information available about how these bikes are supposed to work. That makes it very difficult to owners to learn how to repair the bike. We don't even know if the display is controlled by the engine ECU (box under the seat) or the ZKE (box inside the right side fairing). However I suggest making sure the connectors to the instrument cluster are in good order and securely connected; also that there is no apparent damage or poor connection at the ZKE unit.

If nothing can be found, it's time to visit a dealer who will connect the computer, relay the information to Munich, and tell you what may be wrong.

If you get better information, please relay it to this forum.
I read a lot of articles online. I have come to a conclusion that the ZKE is causing the issue. The cluster is not low lit but fluctuates half down on the display. The only way left for me is to open the ZKE and clean it. Or solder the weak ports. Do you have any images or video links of the ZKE when opened up? I will definitely close the discussion here when the problem is resolved.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have not yet touched the ZKE. does any one know the location of Canbus Earth Connections?
 
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