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2004 K1200RS
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I've just bought myself a nice '04 RS, which is my first Beemer. :)

The gear pedal is set too low: when I push it down, it hits the exhaust heat shield, which I'm sure isn't right.

To adjust it upwards, it looks like I need to loosen a lock nut and then turn the ball-end component so it rises on the threaded shaft. However, I can't do this unless I can release the ball-end component from the horizontal shaft it's on the end of.

My questions are: Have I correctly interpreted what I need to do, or is there another way to adjust the pedal?

And if I do need to take the ball-end component off the horizontal shaft, how is that done? Would it pop off if I put a wrench to it and tap the wrench with a mallet? And then how would I get it back on afterwards, especially as access isn't easy?

Thanks!
Dan
 

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If I'm understanding your setup correctly, it's not that you need to turn the ball-end thingy (which is called a rod end or a Heim joint) but rather you need to turn the threaded shaft. Loosen the lock nut and rotate the shaft (there are usually wrench flats on the end opposite the lock nut, though I'm not sure about on a RS shifter.)
 

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Oh! I didn't think of that. I'll take another look at it tomorrow. Thanks!
Presumably this only works if one thread is clockwise and the other anti-clockwise. Is that the case?
 

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One end is threaded (normal right-hand threads) and the other goes into the ball part of another rod end. The ball will rotate freely, while the threads at the other end move in or out. That will allow you to rotate it. I just checked on my GT, and there are indeed wrench flats on the part just above the lower rod end.

One caution is to make sure you have a minimum of four threads still in the rod end. As you raise the shifter, you'll be lengthening your linkage, and if you have too few threads engaged you risk stripping out the few threads that are carrying the load.

You also don't have to be a gorilla when you tighten the lock nut, just get it snug enough that it can't loosen from vibration - too tight increases the load on the threads, though paradoxically, too loose will cause wear on the threads also.
 

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Yes you need to free a ball joint to adjust.
Freeing a ball joint? Pull the clip and pop it out.Yes a tap with a hammer/piece of wood.

Mind you at a certain age and all depending on previous riding conditions/maintenance I'd suggest a dismantling of the shifter assembly for a cleaning/inspection and lube.That's a yearly thing for me but let me do step 1 to show the clip:
28293
 

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Yes you need to free a ball joint to adjust.
Freeing a ball joint? Pull the clip and pop it out.Yes a tap with a hammer/piece of wood.
Upon further inspection of mine, this is correct. I was misled by grime built up on mine, which must mean it's due for cleaning. Thank you for straightening me out on that.

For what it's worth, it's fairly easy to take off to clean and relube. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! Yes, I've been peering at mine and not seeing the wrench flats. :)

I'll see if I can get a grip on the clip to free up the ball joint.

Or... Maybe I should approach this by moving the linkage one spline on the transmission shift shaft? After all, hitting the heat shield on the down-shift can't be right?
 

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If you have the manual? Clymer shows the index mark on the end of the shifter shaft.Indexes to the slot on the arm. But good luck seeing any of that on the bike.

I am running one spline up from the OEM index.

And the clip as shown on my pic will still hold the joint in place.Clip has a 90degrees turn that goes into the ball joint.Once released you have to pull it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks! I have a Clymer manual on the way. I'll take a look next weekend.
 
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