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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a Gerbing jacket liner and a pair of gloves from my dealer, who also cheerfully sold me a controller and a patch cord terminated with a BMW powerlet male. All stock Gerbing stuff. I was given to understand that I could wire myself up, plug in, and get warm. It was very nice until the fuse blew.

The powerlet on the bike (KRS '04) is fused at 7.5 amps, or used to be. How much does the jacket/glove combo draw? I thought it consumed something like 170 watts, full on. Although I didn't use it, the gloves and jacket came with wiring for a direct battery connection. There's a 15 amp fuse in that wiring, which certainly ought to do it. Should I replace the bike fuse with a 15 amp one? Is there any reason to suspect that the powerlet is not wired to carry that current? The fitting itself certainly looks heavy enough.

How about installing another powerlet in the lower blank hole, wired directly to the battery with the fuse in line? I hate to run unswitched power to an outlet.
 

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BillA said:
I purchased a Gerbing jacket liner and a pair of gloves from my dealer, who also cheerfully sold me a controller and a patch cord terminated with a BMW powerlet male. All stock Gerbing stuff. I was given to understand that I could wire myself up, plug in, and get warm. It was very nice until the fuse blew.

The powerlet on the bike (KRS '04) is fused at 7.5 amps, or used to be. How much does the jacket/glove combo draw? I thought it consumed something like 170 watts, full on. Although I didn't use it, the gloves and jacket came with wiring for a direct battery connection. There's a 15 amp fuse in that wiring, which certainly ought to do it. Should I replace the bike fuse with a 15 amp one? Is there any reason to suspect that the powerlet is not wired to carry that current? The fitting itself certainly looks heavy enough.

How about installing another powerlet in the lower blank hole, wired directly to the battery with the fuse in line? I hate to run unswitched power to an outlet.
Bill,
The accessory outlet is hot all the time, they are not switched. I would suggest installing another outlet using a larger fuse and 12ga. wire to run your Gerbings setup. You'll get more heat from it with the heavier wire.The stock wiring is a bit on the small side for a heavy load.
 

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Blown Fuse

If my math is right and your specs are correct you'll need an approx. 12 to 15 amp fuse in line. No wonder your 7.5 fuse blows
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, Bob. I just got back from the Gerbing site and it turns out that the jacket takes 77 watts, and the gloves 11 apiece, for a total of 99 watts. The 7.5 amp powerlet fuse is good for 90, so I guess that's why I got a few minutes of heat before it blew. I'll have the dealer wire me up a second powerlet when I'm in for my 600 mile inspection. I may have one ride to take before the bike goes in. Do think I would be nuts to slip in a 10 amp fuse temporarily?
 

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BillA said:
Do think I would be nuts to slip in a 10 amp fuse temporarily?
Actually, it depends. The way they figure out the fuse size is based on two things...wire size for that particular circuit (don't want to melt the wire, and they are prone to using smaller wire size when they can get away with it) and over-all load. By the second one I mean that they'll drop the amperage of one fuse if they add another circuit, so that they don't overload the main wire coming into the fuse block (again, they like to use the smallest wire size they can). So, by using a 33% larger fuse, you might cause the wire feeding the accessory plug to get warm(er), or if you have all the other circuits engaged, you might be pushing the limits on the wire feeding the fuseblock.

I think your best option is to connect the Gerbing wiring setup you got for connecting to the battery, and leave the accessory plug for charging your cell phone. :D



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Discussion Starter #6
Well Ray, it sounds like you understand copper. I agree that the Gerbing line to the battery (nice thick stranded wire) is the conservative fix, but it doesn't appeal to my sense of neatness. I'm going to try to keep the bike as free as possible of wires and connectors hanging in the breeze. I'll hook up the Gerbing rig until I can get another powerlet (am I right in referring to the stock BMW fitting as a powerlet?) installed and run the battery feed to it. At least the poserlet has that little cap. I'm uncomfortable with letting the Gerbing wiring dangle...those connectors are small and the contacts are close...seems like too much of an invitation to a short in an always-on line.

I can't be the first one to face this problem. I'd like to hear how others have dealt with it. Thanks, Bill
 

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Trolers

BillA said:
Well Ray, it sounds like you understand copper. I agree that the Gerbing line to the battery (nice thick stranded wire) is the conservative fix, but it doesn't appeal to my sense of neatness. I'm going to try to keep the bike as free as possible of wires and connectors hanging in the breeze. I'll hook up the Gerbing rig until I can get another powerlet (am I right in referring to the stock BMW fitting as a powerlet?) installed and run the battery feed to it. At least the poserlet has that little cap. I'm uncomfortable with letting the Gerbing wiring dangle...those connectors are small and the contacts are close...seems like too much of an invitation to a short in an always-on line.

I can't be the first one to face this problem. I'd like to hear how others have dealt with it. Thanks, Bill
Bill,

If you want a real clean installation, try what I did. Install a double mounted "heat-troller" http://www.warmnsafe.com/motorcycle_coax.php - It mounts directly to the battery, is fused, and you mount the controller knob inside your forward side panel. Clean and effective. But, it takes a bit of effort and willingness to drill holes in a perfectly good panel (so don't screw it up).

Matt
Germany
 

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BillA said:
I agree that the Gerbing line to the battery (nice thick stranded wire) is the conservative fix, but it doesn't appeal to my sense of neatness.
I like to think that I am as uptight as the next guy when it comes to dangling wires and neatness... I used the power outlet for a few weeks with the Gerbing, but I never seemed to keep a good connection and never liked the big connector banging around when wearing the jacket of the bike... I finally added the Gerbing connector directly from the battery with the in-line fuse.

If the picture upload worked, then you can see the connector hides quite well just behind the grab handle on the left side of the bike just below the seat (you can just see the red mark on the wire). I can easily snag the wire my finger while seated and just slide the connector out and hook-up in 1-2 seconds. When I park, I either let it dangle (it doesn't bother me as much as I thought) or tuck it back away. This was meant to be a temporary setup until I found something "neater", but so far it works great (its been a year)... I tried to point to the wire under the seat in the last picture (it runs straight from the battery). I think I used 1 zip-tie to hold the wire in place...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My conscience got the best of me and I went for the conservative approach....straight to the battery. I installed the Gerbing wiring as described above and I feel better for it. I hadn't noticed that the Gerbing connector has a little cap. That's nice. Anyway, thanks for a good idea. Bill
 

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Anyone notice how warm the power plug gets on the Gerbing cord? Not excessive, but I was still surprised at how warm it was after a 2-hour ride in the low 30's. Heck, that was cold enough that the butane lighter in my coat pocket wouldn't work for awhile.

There is no problem using the SAE connector on another bike (as compared to the BMW plug). Guess I just tend to notice warm spots after a cold ride. Go figure.
 

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Another blown fuse...

I was out riding yesterday. It was 18°F. It was the first time I used the Gerbings jacket liner AND the gloves. Problem is I bought this stuff last winter and I have no idea what I did with the battery harness that came with it.
 

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Full Power, Scotty!!

BillA... If you simply want to rewire your factory outlet to handle more current, a buddy of mine has produced a few harness kits for this very procedure. I installed one on my bike this last weekend at http://piratesk12site.net/accessorymod.htm


I'm just helping him sell them and not gonna make any $$ off them.. if interested e-mail me.. One is 100% plug-n-play.. the other involves some minor soldering. Your choice.
 

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Blown Fuse, or bad male plug?

I too have had problems with the Gerging male plug. This winter, I kept blowing fuses. I'm on my third male plug now. Fortunately, my dealership was replaced them for me. If you open up the male end, the tiny screw inside comes lose and the tip gets extremely hot and melts the housing. Check your plug! It may not be the outlet's fault.
 

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Gerbing jacket wiring kit came with a couple of eyelet/ring connectors on the end of a small wiring harness you connected to your battery. This includes an inline fuse. You can tuck the wiring under the seat, including the on/off switch or the controller until you need them (don't have to remember to carry anything but the jacket).

I've used the aux plug in the past, and while it's useable, the permanent wiring sure seems to be a lot easier to deal with. I once kicked the plug out of the socket on a road with no shoulder in the mountains when it was 35F ambient (was standing up stretching my legs, and when repositioning my feet...oops). Got cold really fast. Fortunately, the heated seat was up to the task until I got to a turnout, but wow...felt cold! Nothing to fuss with on the permanent install so far...



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Here Be Da deal

Well.. Here's the deal...He dropped off two versions of the harness... they are slightly different.. one would be universal.

1. One is plug and play and designed for the S and I have ZERO idea if it would work on the RS as the end plug may or may not be different... However..

2. The second harness does NOT have the end plug on it... it just has two exposed wires on the bottom end. Customer would remove/clip the rear plug off his accessory socket and simply solder it to this new harness. This second harness would be universal for sure.. and it's $10 cheaper than the plug-n-play.

htheater said:
Jerry,

Is this kit for the K1200S or is it universal?

BillA has an '04 K1200RS according to his signature.

Randy
 

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just a thought...

BillA said:
My conscience got the best of me and I went for the conservative approach....straight to the battery. I installed the Gerbing wiring as described above and I feel better for it. I hadn't noticed that the Gerbing connector has a little cap. That's nice. Anyway, thanks for a good idea. Bill
I run the Gerbing plug up in front of the seat and clip the heat control to the tankbag strap. Requires a tankbag, but that's usually there anyway. Gerbing says the control is waterproof. So far it is.
 

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I've used the stock BMW outlet for my Gerbing's both on my RT and now on my KRS and have had problems with the inside of the male plug melting and losing power. Both times I was riding at night and had to continue without the pleasure of the Gerbing's warmth.
I've since, installed the connector that came with the Gerbing's directly to the battery and have used it without any problems, even on my Ducati which has half the battery that our BMW's have.
IMO, this is the only way to go. Those BMW connectors just don't seem to be able to handle the Gerbing's for those longer rides and if they fail some cold, dark evening your going to be pissed off and wished you'd gone ahead and installed the set up Gerbing's supply you with.
 

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Get yourself a fused lead with inline 15 amps and coax end. Attach it directly to the battery. I don't think I would change the 7.5 amps to 15. I believe the same fuse also handles other items but it has been a few years since i had a K1200RS.

Raffy
 

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BMWorDuc said:
I've used the stock BMW outlet for my Gerbing's both on my RT and now on my KRS and have had problems with the inside of the male plug melting and losing power. Both times I was riding at night and had to continue without the pleasure of the Gerbing's warmth.
I've since, installed the connector that came with the Gerbing's directly to the battery and have used it without any problems, even on my Ducati which has half the battery that our BMW's have.
IMO, this is the only way to go. Those BMW connectors just don't seem to be able to handle the Gerbing's for those longer rides and if they fail some cold, dark evening your going to be pissed off and wished you'd gone ahead and installed the set up Gerbing's supply you with.
Jerry
I know exactly what you are talking about. I had the + clip mounting screw on the receptacle fall loose roughly half way between Phoenix and LA at 4:00am in January.
The receptacle was replaced under warranty in Scottsdale Az., but I went to a hard connection and a Warm & Safe thermostat.
 
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