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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone with a KRS try to replace their seat with a KGT heated seat? If so, is there a blank electrical connector on the RS to connect the heated seat? Is there a harness available from BMW to make the switch?

Were there one or two heating positions on the seat, can a GT owner comment on that? Thanks:)
 

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Lucky88 said:
Has anyone with a KRS try to replace their seat with a KGT heated seat? If so, is there a blank electrical connector on the RS to connect the heated seat? Is there a harness available from BMW to make the switch?

Were there one or two heating positions on the seat, can a GT owner comment on that? Thanks:)
Try searching the Community Arkives. I've linked one procedure here. It's easy to add the GT seat to an RS, but expensive to do it with the GT wiring and switch.
 

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Lucky,
I added the GT heated seat to my RS. It's tied into the tail light circuit so that it can only operate when the bike is running. I'm using a SPDT switch to provide HI/OFF/LO settings.
 

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While most show 2 heat settings, Tim came up with a way to provide a lower seat heat level. If you get elaborate, you can have 4 levels of heat. There are two elements, so two levels of heat are obvious. However, if you wire 12v at one end (say, the blue wire) and ground at the other end (black) and leave the brown open, you get a series of both elements and a very low level of heat.
Then, on the other end, you can put 12v on both the blue and black, and ground on the brown, and get both elements to heat (which is what happens on the GT seat with the factory wiring and switch). This is recommended only for a short time, as the seat gets a tad above toasty warm, but is great for getting rid of the frost that may occur if left outside overnight, or if your butt is unusually cold (temporarily)



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Yep, what he said ...

Razel said:
While most show 2 heat settings, Tim came up with a way to provide a lower seat heat level. ..........
I went back to my "Black ground" method. Medium heat is way hot, and my "low low" is perfect for hours on end. Here's how I did it.

p.s. Like dangermonkey, I wired it to an "ignition hot" source. That's important. It's in my link above. I use a relay fed from the cruise control switch.
 

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Thanks Tim, I love the Heat, just like Grandma's Dearborn Heater.
2 + years in service now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the posts. I'm going to get this wired up and let you know how it goes. Ah.. yes, I need the seat first, which I should be recieving shortly.

CABNFEVER, I noticed in one of the wiring diagrams you posted, the 'fused' supply is only 2amp. I assume if you never had the fuse blow in the high heating loop, then it must be ok?:)
 

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Lucky88 said:
Thanks for all the posts. I'm going to get this wired up and let you know how it goes. Ah.. yes, I need the seat first, which I should be recieving shortly.

CABNFEVER, I noticed in one of the wiring diagrams you posted, the 'fused' supply is only 2amp. I assume if you never had the fuse blow in the high heating loop, then it must be ok?:)
I tested the seat with a 5 amp fuse, but use a 7 1/2 amp since that's what the GT came with. The diagram wasn't done by me, but 2 amps would protect 24 to 28 watts. Based on the diagrams ohm readings, 2 amp would work. I'd still use a 5, just because it's easier to find. Razel has "my" ohms listed in one of those links. The nice thing is, it's all "resistance" heating, so try the brown ground as BMW did it, and if it is too hot, just swap the brown and black wires for my "low low" setting.

Ohms = Volts / Amps
so, Amps = Volts / Ohms
12v/14o=.86 amps
12v/7.4o=1.6 amps
14v/7o = 2 amps (worst case)

p.s. Just stumbled on this kewl calculator --- Here.
 

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Somewhere on the old site I had a .pdf with a diagram, but I can't find it. Simply put...

12v on black wire
12v on blue wire
Ground on brown
Hot seat Also the high setting on the GT heated seat switch

12v on black
No connection on blue
Ground on Brown
Toasty seat

12v on blue
No connection on black
Ground on brown
Warm seat Also the low setting on the GT heated seat switch

12v on blue
Gnd on black
No connection on brown
No-chill seat



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connector

Could someone provide a source for the three prong connector. I'm having no luck where I live. Could only find two and four prong connectors.
 

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My bad, I thought you were looking for the toggle switch. I bought a four wire trailer light connector at Auto Zone and just used three of the wires. Not real elegant, but it works fine.
 

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no heat

I took this project on thinking it would be an interesting challenge and it has been. I followed the harness build per posted wiring diagrams for the GT. I have the 98 model. I used the #3 fuse on the right side fuse block as a power source. I used the brown wire as ground. Ran two wires with resistors for the led. I'm showing 11.4 volts at the power source. I'm not sure about the resistance read. When testing for resistance on the seat the infinity scale pegs to zero, I assume this means infinite infinity? I went for a 20 min ride and could only get some warmth, nothing like what has been stated here for heat. I had the system checked out and found no problems. Perhaps it takes more time to heat, don't know, but I did let the bike idle for 45 mins...still no HEAT. I bought the seat from a friend who never wired it for his 98 so I would think it is not a fault of the seat. Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
digs said:
I took this project on thinking it would be an interesting challenge and it has been. I followed the harness build per posted wiring diagrams for the GT. I have the 98 model. I used the #3 fuse on the right side fuse block as a power source. I used the brown wire as ground. Ran two wires with resistors for the led. I'm showing 11.4 volts at the power source. I'm not sure about the resistance read. When testing for resistance on the seat the infinity scale pegs to zero, I assume this means infinite infinity? I went for a 20 min ride and could only get some warmth, nothing like what has been stated here for heat. I had the system checked out and found no problems. Perhaps it takes more time to heat, don't know, but I did let the bike idle for 45 mins...still no HEAT. I bought the seat from a friend who never wired it for his 98 so I would think it is not a fault of the seat. Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
Are you using a good quality DVOM? I don't have a diagram in front of me, but doesn't make sense when you say it got slightly warm. Was the resistance measured 'before' or 'after' the seat got warm?

Bottom line, your 'infinite' resistance, meaning your are reading nothing across the two points, is an open circuit. You said it got warm ??? Was it just a hot flash.....:p

Recheck the integrity of your wiring, hope you didn't create a voltage drop somewhere along. Otherwise your seats heating element circuit is your problem.
 

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I checked for resistance at the seat connection, cold. The seat temperature only warmed when I went on the test ride. I tried both switch positions which didn't seem to make a difference in heat output. My DVOM is a Radio Shack model. Thirty bucks top. It has a scale with an infinity symbol in read. When checking the connection the needle deflects to the right of the scale. In other words pegs from left to rt. I interpreted this to mean "infinate resistance" Perhaps your correct that I may be only getting one of elements to work.
 

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Heated Seat

Not sure if you have one yet... i am selling my original GT heated seat. It was used only for two months, got the optional lower seat.
Please let me know if you are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
digs said:
I checked for resistance at the seat connection, cold. The seat temperature only warmed when I went on the test ride. I tried both switch positions which didn't seem to make a difference in heat output. My DVOM is a Radio Shack model. Thirty bucks top. It has a scale with an infinity symbol in read. When checking the connection the needle deflects to the right of the scale. In other words pegs from left to rt. I interpreted this to mean "infinate resistance" Perhaps your correct that I may be only getting one of elements to work.
I like using the digital readout DVOM's. When your 'needle' shows some sort of movement from left to right or visa versa, it's telling me there is continuity at the two points you're measuring. Are you getting the same reading as touching the two test probes together? Keep your fingers clear of the test probe leads for accuracy. You just might have intermitant continuity in the seat when your body weight is on it....or off it... check the diagram once again. Making some simple test connections, you should be able to bench test the seat isolating your switch and added wiring.
 

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digs said:
I checked for resistance at the seat connection, cold. The seat temperature only warmed when I went on the test ride. I tried both switch positions which didn't seem to make a difference in heat output. My DVOM is a Radio Shack model. Thirty bucks top. It has a scale with an infinity symbol in read. When checking the connection the needle deflects to the right of the scale. In other words pegs from left to rt. I interpreted this to mean "infinate resistance" Perhaps your correct that I may be only getting one of elements to work.
If you have a $30.00 Radio Shack VOM, needle movement is good, meaning it's showing there's a path. There should be a scale adjustment such that when you change the scale reading, the needle will eventually rest somewhere between both ends of the scale. Per CABNFVR's post, you should be seeing 14.sumthin ohms on the blue (low-heat element), and 7.5 on the black (hi-heat element).
You also ran wires for LED's but, and excuse me for making a bad guess, did you use separate wires to run the 12v to the seat w/o resistors? The LED's were just an add-on to show that the switch was turned on, and to what level the switch was set to. Without the LED's, you'd have one switch that turned on power to the blue wire, and another switch that applied power to the black. Turn on both for Hi-heat, then eventually turn one of the switches off (because after about 20 minutes, your butt would be sweating).
If, on the otherhand, you have the seat element in series with the resistors, then you've restricted the available current to heat things up. Yeah, there's a bit of surface area to heat up, but in 20 minutes, both elements on, you should be noticing some serious heat.



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After all this talk about digital meters I went and bought one, great tool. I'm showing 13.4 and 6.9 respectfully. I did run separate wires to the led with resistors and separate wires to the seat. So, I gather less resistance = less heat? Guess I'll live with what I have.
 
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