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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Without gettting into an issue of religion, but I was wondering which HED low beam system is the easiest to install with the least amount of modification?

Thanks in Advance
Howard
 

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hid

I installed the DDM kit on my k1200rs it was fairly easy, you have to drill hole in plastic head light backing, (housing) but that was easy. You go to ddm web site they have good instructions. Their kit is not expensive and works great (so far).
 

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Another DDM kit user. For replacing the low beam H7 bulb you get the option of a 35watt or 55watt HID kit. Fairly simple, you have a couple of square "blocks" to anchor behind the headlamp, and you drill a 15/16" hole (some have use a 7/8" bit, too) for the grommet that has the wiring all ready threaded through it. The square blocks are the ignitor and balast, and the kit comes with double-sided sticky pads as well as ty-wraps for the wires. Probably took all of an hour from start to finish (including removing the tupperware).

Choices for color are 3000k (k for kelvin) to 12000k. White is pretty much 4500K - 5000K, lower is yellow, higher is blue (verging on purple). Expect to have anything in front of you that reflects light to reflect it at night. But, I opted for the 55w system ...

Wouldn't recommend replacing the high beam with HID, though.



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peryhid said:
Hi,dear
We are the professional HID manufacturer.I think you can install the 3000-6000k HID,
if you have any question,please feel free to contact me.
[email protected]
http://hid-manufacturer.com
Click on "Motorcycle HID kit" and get:
Not Found
The requested document was not found on this server.
Thanks for playing, though ...



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I recommend against HID lighting. There are other ways to go to get really bright lights. I have HID in my Toyota and I can tell you there is a down side to HID and it's not just the oncoming traffic flashing you. HID takes a long time to warm up, as much as 30 seconds to full bright depending on the igniter system. My Toyota uses a 4 headlight system. One on each side is for low beam. They always stay on. The second set is for high beam. So when I switch to high beam there's no difference in visibility at all for at least 10 seconds while the bulbs warm up. Most times they never do get to full brightness because there's always another car coming and you have to switch back to low beam. By the time the car goes by the bulb is cold and you start over. Some vehicles have a little reflector that toggles back and forth to re-aim a single bulb for high and low beam but I am pretty sure my bike doesn't. It's a separate filament.
 

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Yoda, it sounds like you are suggesting not going to HID high beam. If you have HID in the lows that stay on all the time, how do they work out?
 
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With the late Beemers, the low beam is on all the time, and when you hit the highs, it doesn't turn off the low, but adds more light with the high turned on. That's the way it was on my '08 R1200R and now the K1300S (which has 2 high bulbs).

I just installed an HID a week ago, and it takes essentially no time to be at full power. As soon as the igniter hits, it's essentially at full brightness within couple seconds. I have a digital HID conversion at 4300K in low beam only & use PIAA Extreme Whites in highs which works well while using the warning hi-beam flasher.

If you're a senior like myself, it takes longer for eyes to recover from oncoming cars on unlit highways/roads and the HID lights up sides of roads better for the couple seconds it takes for older eyes to readjust. The HID in the low beam only works great in combo with the PIAA highs as I have to ride a lot of unlit highways through wilderness with critters crossing the roads, as well as cagers seem to pick up me much quicker now with the bright white when only the low beam HID is on.

For the price of the one PIAA in the low socket, I'll get far longer life out of the HID using less power and more than make up for the cost of replacing the halogens so often. Now adding Motolights, etc is yet another way to add more brightness and safety margin.
 

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night ridding Glasses

See this site for info on http://readygolf.com/TAG-Heuer-Night-Vision-Driving-Glasses-Curve-5019/6089/

The TAG glasses have a -.25 lens for better distance vision at night. They are for people that do not need glasses in day light.
I had a set of these made by my eye doctor ( I do not need glasses in the day time) They really helped for night driving and insurance paid for them.

You could get a set made for about $75 if you did not want expensive frames.
 

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I hope this is still a 'thread-relevant'' post...

Can anyone tell me how an hi-beam H7 PIAA 120W bulb in my stock 2000 K1200RS headlight, along with a good dual-filament (55/120w?) PIAA bulb in there too would stack up against an HID system?

My 2000 K1200RS is also equipped with a set of PIAA driving lights. They are VERY powerful, and although I have no idea what the strength of the PIAA DL's bulbs actually are, they are mounted in such a way that they throw, via a switch built into the fairing next to the speedo, an amazing amount of light both forward AND out to the limits of my peripheral vision. Great lights. But not enough for the speeds I like to go where I live, since I often cover 90-10 miles between clients at night...

I live in *deeply* rural area, the NorCal coast above Stinson Beach... Deer are the biggest pests here almost every night; MUCH worse than in Vermont, where I've ridden for years... it's also FULL of tourist drivers, drunk local drivers, drunk tourist drivers, lost drunk drivers... you get the picture- almost as bad a brew of traffic on rural roads as having a new Casino park opening here (not gonna happen, just an example.

Has anyone tried both a HID solution, vs. PIAA driving lights and Hi-Power H7 120W, etc.) bulbs in an otherwise stock K12RS config?
 

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If you really want to know:

1. The headlamp would probably melt (Check the prices of a new headlamp unit).
2. The ground wires if still oem and part of the loom would also melt.
3. The power load would be high, less battery life.
4. The lamp life would be few hours (Have you tried changing a bulb yet?)

Don't try re-inventing the wheel, HID's are the solution!!

If you really are in a rural spot with not so much oncoming, try the 55w low beam mod. Move on to the High beam, but that really only adds a bit of penetration as it is focussed narrow like a pencil beam. Add HID auxiliaries if you want to pretend you are riding in daylight at night!

Why do photographers use Xenon flash instead of tungsten bulbs - because you get more light per watt with less heat and the flash tubes last a long time!



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OK, cool. For right now, everything's jake with the stock bulbs and the PIAA's... BUT, soon, I'll need to move up in wattage, so I can actually go the *speed limit* at night around here.

Yeah, I've done a 'dry run' and the bulb change is easy- I just don't want to have to change 'em out so frequently that I'll have to do it while riding with one hand and the cruise control on. :)

I'll take your advice about the HID solution. Can I take it a step further, and grab an aftermarket headlight assembly purpose-built and designed for hi-po HID light wattage? I drove Rally cars for awhile in the Northeast, and there was *no* such thing as a stock headlight stuffed with ANY hi-po bulbs, because the wattage would diffract into a 'blob' of light... I thought that I *had* to stuff a stock Beemer headlight with hi watt bulbs- because (drumroll)... I assumed that there IS no such Beemer HID/aftermarket purpose-built headlight lens/reflector /case/shield assembled units out there... and is all that HID (or any other kind) of wattage really fully utilized, with a bean shape that's controllable, with dense light, real penetration, and sharp cutoffs?

Just wonderin'... if not, it's the aforementioned HID solution utilizing the stock headlight assembly- if it works for you guys...
 

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crh said:
I'll take your advice about the HID solution. Can I take it a step further, and grab an aftermarket headlight assembly purpose-built and designed for hi-po HID light wattage? I drove Rally cars for awhile in the Northeast, and there was *no* such thing as a stock headlight stuffed with ANY hi-po bulbs, because the wattage would diffract into a 'blob' of light... I thought that I *had* to stuff a stock Beemer headlight with hi watt bulbs- because (drumroll)... I assumed that there IS no such Beemer HID/aftermarket purpose-built headlight lens/reflector /case/shield assembled units out there... and is all that HID (or any other kind) of wattage really fully utilized, with a bean shape that's controllable, with dense light, real penetration, and sharp cutoffs?

Just wonderin'... if not, it's the aforementioned HID solution utilizing the stock headlight assembly- if it works for you guys...
HID on the K1200RS/GT from 1998-2005 should be fine. There's no direct light through the lense, it's all reflective. So the naysayers discussing light from filiment vs. arc can go back to their room. HID on the high beam (mains) is a different story. Two things, one being the way the light is projected, and second, flashing the high-beam is worthless.

For the low beam, there's 35 watt and 55 watt HID kits.40% more light with 55 watt, if you believe the advertising. Wiring can handle either one. 4500-6000k color "temp" for the best reflective light (signs and reflective dots on the road). Lots of fog? Then consider 3000k color "temp", as yellow gives you better contrast with impared vision (fog, rain and snow (if your that adventurous)).

My 2¢



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Discussion Starter #14
Gentlemen, Thank you very much for your combined knowledge. I have made a decision with a 55w HED low beam
 

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Discussion Starter #15
HID Installation

Today I did the HID installation of the DDM tuning 55 watt HID kit. It was relatively easy if you take you time and careful.

I found this on the web and provides some additional instructions.

Enjoy.
 

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