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HELP!!! 2007 K1200GT Won’t Start

2265 Views 46 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Jeff3673
I have a K1200GT that has 89,000 miles on it. The engine sounded a little “raspy” for a couple weeks. Got on it one morning to head to work and upon starting the bike it was more of a rattle sound. Shortly after getting out of the driveway the check engine light came on so I went to the end of my road and turned around and took the car to work.

Tried starting up the bike multiple times after and it had the same rattle sound but it still ran.
After a couple of weeks of it sitting, I decided to order a manual cam chain tensioner from Southern California Motowerks. The bike had the new style CCT from BMW currently installed.

New CCT came in today so I replaced it and followed the steps in the video from their website. Went to start the bike and it won’t start at all. Fiddled with it a little bit and decided to replace it with the BMW CCT and same result.

When I try to start it the display dims and the starter doesn’t turn over multiple times like it is trying to start. Had the battery checked out and it had 12.8 volts. You can hear the cam chain turn slightly but nothing else.

Not sure where to go from here. Could be the starter motor/relay. Could be that the engine is locked up but I don’t believe that is the case because it was running before. Just rattle-y. Thanks in advance for any help. Really missing riding since I rode daily!
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Test your battery under load. A bad battery can read 12.8 but under load drop well below the need level of 10.5 volts. Hook your meter up and then hit the start button and take a reading while cranking (or not cranking). If it is lower than 10.5 it is no good.
Welcome to the site. Plenty of information here so keep us informed as to your situation in the same thread.
Agree with Beech, first place to check is the battery. Especially with the dimming display.
Worst case senario is that the camchain has jumped a tooth or more and the valves are open when it's at TDC, but as it has the new cam chain tensioner, it is either a newer 2008 model, or had the recalls. Which, I'm guessing, would include the chainguard. I'm guessing a bit here so don't take too much of it to heart.

Try hooking up a battery you already have, e.g. car battery with jump leads, just to rule out the most likely cause first, and we can go from there.
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Thanks for the replies.

I took the clutch cover off the other day just to see if anything was damaged as this is the easiest place to get to without removing anything else.

I noticed the lower cam chain guide rail was broken. Good news is it had the jump guard installed. There were some larger pieces of plastic between the cam chain and engine block where it goes around the sprocket. I am almost positive this is what was preventing the engine from turning over. You can see in the pictures below where the guide rail is split.

I have a few questions as to where to go from here.

I know the lower guide rail is installed from the top end. Can you put it in without taking the upper sprocket off? And can you replace the upper one without removing the clutch?

Also, I think the radiator needs to be removed to get to the top end. Can you move it enough to get to the top end without draining it and removing it completely from the bike?
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Ouch, that looks painful. Sorry I can't help you, I haven't replaced a camchain, but more knowledgeable heads than mine will be along soon. At least you have the cause. Hopefully no damage done.
I think you will need to remove the radiator for access. To be honest, it really isnt as scary as you might read to bleed the cooling system after - I have now made myself a vacuum rig as its much quicker - but I've also done it several times manually with no problems. I have a K1200s and a K1300s, both running high mileage, where I do all my own work.
I think you will need to remove the radiator for access. To be honest, it really isnt as scary as you might read to bleed the cooling system after - I have now made myself a vacuum rig as its much quicker - but I've also done it several times manually with no problems. I have a K1200s and a K1300s, both running high mileage, where I do all my own work.
Can you explain how you have done it "manually"? I'm assuming this means without a vacuum system.
Yeah, what I did without access to a vacuum system was (while on side stand) to fill the rad to the brim from the right hand cap, go round the bleed nipples while also "burping" the system by squeezing the rad hoses (keep topping coolant level up to brim all the time). Repeat again quickly with engine running, put the cap on and run the engine to temperature. Let it cool down, remove the cap and top up rad to brim again and good to go. Dont run too long without the cap on as the coolant gets heated quite quickly and starts being pushed out by expansion.
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I dont really have room for a compresssor at home, so I now use an Vacuum pot I bought online, along with a modified Rad cap (using Gas Pipe fittings bought from a DIY Store) to fill the cooling system.
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If you have a compressor, then just go for a Vacuum kit and be done with it :)
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I have a compressor. Just wasn't sure on what else I needed. I didn't want to spend $100+ on the vacuum systems that I've seen online.
Can you give me a link to a cheap vacuum kit that you know will work?
I've only used my manual method and my home rig for this job. I work as a Truck Mechanic, so have professional tools and a compressor at work - but cant really comment on the cheaper kits. Personally I was (and still would be) happy with bleeding the system manually. I only made the rig cos I had a spare rad cap and wanted to see the difference - really it's only a time saving and I think in a Dealer workshop they dont want to be running engines and then waiting for them to cool before moving on - time is money I guess.
Sounds good. I will just do it manually then and save some money. The rest of my parts are supposed to come in throughout this week. Looking forward to getting it back on the road!
I see no issues doing it without a vacuum if you dont have the kit,just need to be sure to get all the air out, "burping" the system via the couple of bleed screws should work (ive done the same in my land rover).

I've found a couple of cheapish kits online that look perfectly suited.


And


I'm sure in the US you can find something similar.

Good luck
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I think you are taking a big risk not vacuum filling the cooling system. The water passages are very small in the engine block and it is easy to trap air bubbles. ‘Burping’ the water hoses is no guarantee that all the air is out of the system. Some have successfully manually filled the cooling system and others have ruined their engines. You need to remove the sprocket from the camshaft but you really need a manual of some sort to get the correct procedure. I can send screen shots if you need them.
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I found this video on youtube for replacing the two slide rails. Let me know if this is sufficient information to go off of.


If you really think filling the radiator is a huge risk then I will buy a vacuum system.
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Good find. Your going to need to remove all the plastic. Remove the air ducts covering the radiator. Drain the radiator. Undo some hoses to the radiator. Do it at the water pump inlet fixture not on the radiator for this hose. Have two pinch devices one for the over flow vent line on the left lower area of the side stand and the other for the radiator overflow. Remove the secondary air to the rocker cover, be careful all is brittle. Have some rubber grease lube ready for re fitting later. Be really careful unplugging the coils super easy to break off the lock tab if moved more than the little bit needed to get over its latch bump. Use a coil puller on the coils 12$ at many places. Remove the spark plugs. (all this is going to cost you money, the rocker cover gasket, inner gasket can be used most of the time but care in cleaning and sealing the corners is a must. If not soft to the touch you need new ones.) Think about checking your valve clearance at this time. You can turn over the engine with the crank nut under the 50mm plug right side of engine. Buy new bolts for the cover. They are stretch bolts. 3Nm then 90 degrees twist. Tighten in a pattern from middle out. Use a new gasket on the cover. The rail should just wiggle out and back in. You lucked out having a jump guard, engine would have died with out it. PM me for more information, I can send you detailed files. Lots of details like torque values, it is a large operation to just remove the rocker cover. But step by step it is no big deal. here are a few files showing what is needed.

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I believe I messed up. I removed two pieces of the broken rail through the right side cover. There was still a piece in there though. I set the engine at the correct location to remove the first screw from the sprocket. Went to rotate the crankshaft one revolution to remove the second screw and I think the chain slipped just a little bit off of the lower sprocket as I turned it. It is hard to keep the cam chain tight on the sprocket since the guide rail is broken. It won't turn any further now and I don't want to force it because I believe it skipped time now...

Is there an easy way of determining what position the lower crank is in?

Or am I at a point of taking it to a dealer?
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