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HELP!!! 2007 K1200GT Won’t Start

2196 Views 46 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Jeff3673
I have a K1200GT that has 89,000 miles on it. The engine sounded a little “raspy” for a couple weeks. Got on it one morning to head to work and upon starting the bike it was more of a rattle sound. Shortly after getting out of the driveway the check engine light came on so I went to the end of my road and turned around and took the car to work.

Tried starting up the bike multiple times after and it had the same rattle sound but it still ran.
After a couple of weeks of it sitting, I decided to order a manual cam chain tensioner from Southern California Motowerks. The bike had the new style CCT from BMW currently installed.

New CCT came in today so I replaced it and followed the steps in the video from their website. Went to start the bike and it won’t start at all. Fiddled with it a little bit and decided to replace it with the BMW CCT and same result.

When I try to start it the display dims and the starter doesn’t turn over multiple times like it is trying to start. Had the battery checked out and it had 12.8 volts. You can hear the cam chain turn slightly but nothing else.

Not sure where to go from here. Could be the starter motor/relay. Could be that the engine is locked up but I don’t believe that is the case because it was running before. Just rattle-y. Thanks in advance for any help. Really missing riding since I rode daily!
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That’s great - thanks! I do have an inch pound torque wrench so I’m good there. I’ve been into antique cars my whole life and we know that as long as it’s leaking oil - you have some!! Haha!
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coolant pump main bolt is left hand threads!
If you remove the camshafts you will need the unobtainable special tool to remove the camshaft bearing bridge. That’s the H shaped piece in the centre of the engine. It is diecast and very easy to crack if not loosened evenly and can’t be repaired. I am in the process of making one out of capscrews and hex keys cut to size. It wont be as neat as the genuine but it wont be US$400+ either if you can find one.
Special tool. Inserted into spark plug holes and brass nut hold cam bearing bridge down while all the nuts holding it down are removed. Then the two brass nuts are evenly released
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Oh boy - seems like every time I think I’ve taken everything apart that I need to, something else’s comes along. This is good to know tho! Do you know what the spark plug thread size is? Looks like some sort of ball bearing washer type of deal under the nuts. I think I can rig something up to work.
This is what I’ve come up with. Thank to Beech for the dimensions from the oem tool

I’m going to use thrust washers but i reckon teflon washers could work just as well.
The spark plug thread is 1.25 x 10 long. The silver capscrew is not attached hence the eccentricity I haven’t tried this yet so I can’t vouch for it at this point.
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Wow - that’s pretty detailed! Thanks!!
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