I was jsut reading a thread yesterday where someone else mentioned this. I know it's in the "new" forum so maybe do a search for "HID".....
Anyway, the gist of the comment was this: HID for a high beam is generally not a good idea b/c HID lighting takes a bit to warm up. Further, HID lighting requires a ballast - which causes a delay of the light when you hit the switch. If you don't leave your high beam on for a bit (ie if you only blip the oncoming traffic, etc), your high beam may not truly be a high beam, if it indeed comes on at all (depending on how fast you blip)...
For this reason, most people don't recommned you do this.
Though, if you are hellbent on it - I'm sure any of the online HID lighting sources could accomodate your needs....
Another reason not to do it on the high beam is life of the bulb and ballast. When I was considering HID I remember a significant part of bulb life is based on on/off cycles. I decided that HID was not the way to go for a retrofit.
I understand the technology not the application, so what other posters are saying makes sense. All gas discharge lamps have to be 'struck' to start. As well as the cold lamp low efficiency warm up issue, a hot discharge lamp is usually harder to re strike than a cold lamp. You're riding along on high beam, switch to low then quickly back to high on a sweeper and the lamp doesn't light. I'd check out what the specs say. If you've got PIAS or a bright low and ride mostly long distances on full main, you might consider the benefits outweigh the risks. Ever had all your light fail on a bike when riding? I'd rather have some simple dualed filament light backup for peace of mind. HIDS are more common fitments in cages where the electronic ballasts are well protected. Look what BMW do to position and protect the ECU controller.
Are the bike HID units specially designed for bike use, or are they just cage units sold for bikes and how long is the warranty? They might make a real hash of GPS and radio.
Some of what I read applies to a car, like on/off/on. Most of us, includling myself, ride our bikes on the weekends or trips. NOT daily and not at night all the time. Therefore the life will be longer.
The low beam does not go off when you switch to high beam on a K12, so switching back and fourth quickly will not leave you without lights as the low beam doesn't go off.
Using the HID high beam for day use, safety, makes sense at least to me. Also, riding in the pitch dark, low beam HID only reaches out so far and you need more light. The high beam filament bulb seems anemic when used with the HID low beam.
And flicking you high beam to warn oncoming cars doesn't have the same effect it used to, thanks to headlight modulators.
I don't think it would be an altogether bad idea to have HID lighting for the high beam for some one like me as I do most of my driving in the day time and I drive with my high beam on, and when I do get caught out at night it's very late and I'm about the only one on the road, so again HID would be good, I use to have a BMW 850 that I converted everything to HID and it made that car driveable at night where as before I'd try to be home before dark (much like my K12!) for some reason BMW just doesn't get there lighting right on a lot of there vehicles (car or bike) and a good HID conversion is well worth the effort.
I don't have a view on whether to use HID high beam or not, but I have an HID low beam and almost never use my high beam. With the stock lights I rode with high and low day and night, and got very few indications it was a distraction to other drivers, though it did get noticed. The HID is brighter, has longer range, and the left hand dark spot is easier to live with, though I would like to fill this some way, some day.
The ballast I mounted on the plastic horizontal 'shelf' to the left of the headlight nacelle, and is completely 'sealed' as far as I can see though it may not do duty in outer space! It is one of those temporary mounts that may outlive me using cable ties (what else). The shelf is a little flexible which is a little concerning, but this may help dampen any shock to the unit. If I make it permanent, which may just mean new cable ties, I think I will mount it on a piece of soft foam.
Regarding duty cycle of the bulbs, it would seem to me that these would far outlast a regular bulb as there is no physical filament to vibrate. I think the listed life is 30,000 hours, a lot of riding to be sure.
There is no effect - that I can see - on GPS use.
As already mnetioned there is a lot on this topic in the archives, worth looking at. Let us know how it works.
Well, after about 5 hours into this project, I was wishing I had listened to everyone's advice regarding the HID high beam install. It turned out to be about a 10-11 hour project. Had to completely re-fabricate (read destroy) the H3 bulb holder so it would hold the H3 HID bulb. Spent hours working where I needed two hands and the ability to see what I was doing, and for much of the task it was working with one hand, blind, just feeling around. Even made use of a dental type mirror with an extension on it. I almost threw in the towel trying to find a place for the ballast. I already used the shelf on the left by the radiator cap, for the low beam HID. Finally I decided it would attach to the side of the air box on the right side. Instructions say, "Do not place where the unit will get wet and avoid moisture". Hello, these babies go under the hood of a freakin car, which is both of those things!!
But it works and she is all back together....no more room in the nose for anything else!! Now I have to try it out at night.
I have a Signal Dynamics headlight modulator for the H3 if anyone is interested.
Sorry to hear that. Did you check to see if you got the HID bulb positioned (depth) correctly so you won't have a halo effect at night when its on?
The reason I say this is the HIDs4Less kits were notorious for not being correctly positioned in the bulb holder. Discussed this with www.hid-online.com a couple of years ago and they developed a spacer adapter for their H3 HID bulbs to fit between the BMW H3 bulb holder and the base of the H3 HID bulb. They actually went out and bought a headlight assembly to make sure they got the bulb depth right. Still need to dremel out the bulb holder to pass the HID pigtail wires through.
Hope this helps someone else doing an H3 conversion on their K1200RS/GT bikes.
Yes. You should have no dark spot in the middle. If you can't get it straightened out, PM me and I'll see what I can do to get you an adapter/spacer. You did keep the retaining metal piece that slides over the bulb holder?
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