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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally got around to inspecting my GT because of an occasional fuel smell and fully expected to find a leak or seepage at the quick disconnect boss, but once apart I cannot see any sign of any kind of leak (ran it up to operating temperature on the centerstand), nor can I see any telltale signs of leakage (stains, etc.) I guess I was being over-sensitive(?) I think I do see a hairline crack in the mounting boss (don't have the tank completely out yet) but as I said, no sign of any leakage.

From what I read if there's no current leak the BMW official fix is to simply install a metal reinforcing ring rather than replace the entire pump so since I already have one of these I'll go ahead and install it rather than bother with taking it to the dealer, doesn't sound like they will do any more than I can anyway.

Anyway, my question... how do you release the stock quick disconnect? I see what looks like a small metal retaining ring with a little knob on it, do I pry that out, or..? I don't see what else I could do...

Also when the line is removed will fuel come pouring out of the tank (if it is not emptied first)?
 

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To remove the Male quick-disconnect, you want to press down on the metal tab on the Female portion, then pull the Male portion straight out.

To insert, make sure the metal tab on the Female portion is pressed in towards the center (it should click and hold in place), then line up the Male portion and push it straight in until you hear a click, and the metal tab pops out on its own.

It is possible to damage the o-ring on the Male portion if you put it in crooked, so inspect the o-ring before assembly to make sure it is free of nicks or cuts.

The metal tab can be seen at the 7 o'clock position in the following pic:



That pic was taken on a K16GTL, with the fuel pump plate located at the back of the tank, and thus easy to get to. The K12/13GT has the fuel pump plate at the front of the tank, so you have to slide your hand down in there to release the quick disconnect, and the wire and drain hose. The fuel line is the shortest, so release that first. You can also remove the battery to to give yourself slightly more room to work.

There are more details and pics in this post from this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the quick response Ken. By 'press down', do you mean press towards the tank or press inward towards the connector?
 

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smiller said:
Thanks for the quick response Ken. By 'press down', do you mean press towards the tank or press inward towards the connector?
Press the tab radially inwards towards the center of the connector. In the pic above, the tab at the 7 o'clock position gets pushed towards the small metal post near the 1 o'clock position.

The tab and metal plate will slide along the face of the Female QD, so that the large hole in the metal plate will align with the main hole in the QD, and the Male portion will pop out a little due to the spring pressure of its built-in auto-shutoff valve. Then you can pull the Male QD straight out.

Both the Male and Female QDs have built-in shutoff valves, so they are "dry break" fittings. You might get a tiny dribble of gas, but you won't get any significant flow or leakage.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Interesting. Just fyi that link will not display on my machine in either Chrome or Internet Explorer 10. And if I go to the URL directly I just get a blank page.
 

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I uploaded the pic to Imgur.com

Try it again . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yes, that works fine thanks. And now I see the reason for my confusion... the big flat tab on the other side of the connector was not visible to me from my perspective.
 

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A thousand words . . . :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Well that went easier than I expected, nothing to it. There were a few cracks in the mounting boss but none went below the top thread so along with the lack of any visual evidence I doubt it was leaking before, but even if it was I'm confident it isn't now (that's not something you want in the back of your mind while riding.) The 10over/Beemer Boneyard reinforcing ring makes the mounting boss very solid, and that along with some high-pressure PTFE thread sealing compound (personally I would not use JB Weld in this application) I expect will make for a very sound repair. And even if not recalls do not have a time limit so I can always go that way in the future.

Even though BMW's repair is free the above may be a better option for those whose pump isn't too far gone and would otherwise have to drive several hundred miles, leave their bike, etc. Doing it yourself takes only a few hours.

One caution if you DIY, it is very easy to over-torque the connector when using thread-sealing compound and too tight is almost worse than too loose. Go easy on it.
 

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Glad it all worked out for you.

smiller said:
it is very easy to over-torque the connector
Hence the source of many of these cracked flanges . . .
 

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Had recall done

Just had my '06 in for the 48k service and recall. They gave me a new fuel pump. They showed me the connector and there were several cracks, one fairly 'large' relatively speaking. Took a little more time but glad they did it. Only a 50 minute drive. Just fyi.
 
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