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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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Discussion Starter #1
I didn't pay a whole lot for it since it has a clutch starting to slip that the PO didn't want to deal with. He also said that it has a slight oil leak "sometimes when left on the side stand." I'm probably going to just leave it parked until March (I have other Ks to ride in the interim) when the temperatures in my garage are a bit warmer. I assume I'll need to tear it apart and maybe replace the clutch plate and rear main seal but I've done spline lubes and clutch work on the 20 odd older Ks that I've owned and have plenty of free time and tools so that doesn't really worry me.

On the upside it's only got 30K on it and has Ohlins suspension with a Remus exhaust.

A few questions:

1 - Is it possible to support the rear of it with a sawhorse like I do with my older Ks to get the center stand and transmission off?

2 - Are the final drive pivot bearings "decent" or should I plan on replacing those? (Most of the time the cheap plastic bearing races on the earlier paralever Ks fall apart when you take the final drive off.)

And here's what it looks like. I'm generally not a fan of yellow motorcycles but for some reason I've always liked these K1200RS graphics.

 

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Same bearings all the way across all the Paralever bikes.Same part number.Mine are now at 225,000 kms.I'll do the yearly maintenance in a day or so coincidentally with greasing my U-joints and cleaning the rear caliper.I may decide on new bearings but one has to look at them first.....!:glasses

Not going much farther so I don't need to bring in the work table/platform I built a few years ago.8x3' and just a matter of lifting the table up by a foot or so and setting it on blocks.Sure makes a clutch job comfortable vs working on the ground under the chain hoist.
 

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98 with conventional conrods?Bad tendency to seize up and grenade at No1 conrod.

BMW updated the engines shortly thereafter(99?)to cold cracked conrods.

Minimal oil consumption on my 03.About 1L/10,000kms at now 293,000 kms.Compression still above 160psi and oil pressure all the way up still according to my gauge.
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R
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Excellent idea to make a support. I think a good one from 2x4's would be easy. This taxi is my favorite color scheme. I had a 98 also. Glad I did not see it before you. I live in Mount Vernon, if you want a 19x4mm Viton oring I have plenty. One is free.
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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Discussion Starter #6
Excellent idea to make a support. I think a good one from 2x4's would be easy. This taxi is my favorite color scheme. I had a 98 also. Glad I did not see it before you. I live in Mount Vernon, if you want a 19x4mm Viton oring I have plenty. One is free.
Not in Seattle anymore. I need to go update my user profile. I live over on Hood Canal on 101 now.

Would you be willing to mail me an O-ring? PM me if so.

(for a free beer next beer next time you're riding Hood Canal:smile_big)
 

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I didn't pay a whole lot for it since it has a clutch starting to slip that the PO didn't want to deal with ...

1 - Is it possible to support the rear of it with a sawhorse like I do with my older Ks to get the center stand and transmission off?

2 - Are the final drive pivot bearings "decent" or should I plan on replacing those? (Most of the time the cheap plastic bearing races on the earlier paralever Ks fall apart when you take the final drive off.)
Nice Bike!

Must be a very short saw horse. I clamp the front wheel down and use a bottle jack under the tranny when I've done the rear drive unit. That's twice now, btw. I think that's the weakest link in this drivetrain. To disassemble as far forward as the tranny, I'd have to put the bottle jack under the engine and as far aft as possible to avoid getting too far ahead of the center of gravity (COG). The COG is only a concern until I get the rear wheel and final drive off.

When you get it all apart, you might consider replacing the clutch slave. You don't want to have to do it all again. Mine's down right now for that very problem with a worn out slave unit, although at 87K, it's never failed me before. Neither has the clutch disc itself for that matter, and as far as I can tell, the clutch is still strong. I'm not sure if I'll pull the tranny and look at it when I do the slave unit, but I'll see when I get there. I may just do that if only to lube the splines.

As with the clutch, I've never had any problems with the pivot bearings. As long as the bike keeps handing great, I won't consider replacing them. Just keep them properly adjusted - very important.

For perspective on my bike, 82K of the 87K are mine. So I'm pretty confident that the clutch disc, slave unit, and pivot bearings are still the originals.

Also for perspective, I had 114K on my old '85 K100RS, and never had to replace a clutch. Bought one once, but never had to install it. I think your failure at only 30K is very premature and I'd be concerned about previous owner abuse.
 

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Not in Seattle anymore. I need to go update my user profile. I live over on Hood Canal on 101 now.

Would you be willing to mail me an O-ring? PM me if so.

(for a free beer next beer next time you're riding Hood Canal:smile_big)
You are in good hands with Beech and Pierre.
Both were key contributors in my 98 K1200RS rear main seal project in June 2009.
I used a hoist, but would go with Beech’s approach if I had it to do again.
 

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If I haven't tossed it in the scrap pile I have a 98 clutch pack somewhere.28Ks(miles) and the friction material is shredding.Got so hot that one of the metal plates is showing heat stress cracks.But no signs of oil from a failed Oring.

Yep.....some sure weren't into durability/high milleage from some early pics/posts I remember.:wink
 

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You might consider a weep hole (very similar in function to a water pump weep hole) in the slave cylinder housing while you have the bike apart. The tiny throw-out bearing in the slave cyl piston is turning with the engine AT ALL TIMES. When the bearing fails or the slave just starts leaking from old age the hydraulic fluid has no escape except down the clutch rod to the clutch, requiring another clutch job. AMHIK. There are several easy ways to create a weep hole at the housing. I have pics if you want them.

If you have the OEM rubber brake lines you are living on borrowed time. DOT4 eats them from the inside, either locking the brake or bursting the line. It's not the miles but the years that destroy them. Those should be replaced with Spiegler or Galfer braided stainless PTFE lines. An ease one day, $250 fix at home.

DO get the Viton ring from Beech!!

 

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I also have a '98 K1200 in the taxi livery. It's a beautiful bike.

My clutch started slipping and I found it was the slave cylinder leaking fluid onto the clutch. I decided to change just the slave cylinder and hoped that the clutch would slowly come back, which it did. I have been riding it for several more years without any slipping.
I suggest you try this as it is much less work than changing the clutch. I don't think your bike has enough miles on it to have gone through a clutch.

I used a short bottle jack under the crank case to support the bike.
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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Discussion Starter #12
Nice Bike!

Must be a very short saw horse. I clamp the front wheel down and use a bottle jack under the tranny when I've done the rear drive unit. That's twice now, btw. I think that's the weakest link in this drivetrain. To disassemble as far forward as the tranny, I'd have to put the bottle jack under the engine and as far aft as possible to avoid getting too far ahead of the center of gravity (COG). The COG is only a concern until I get the rear wheel and final drive off.

When you get it all apart, you might consider replacing the clutch slave. You don't want to have to do it all again. Mine's down right now for that very problem with a worn out slave unit, although at 87K, it's never failed me before. Neither has the clutch disc itself for that matter, and as far as I can tell, the clutch is still strong. I'm not sure if I'll pull the tranny and look at it when I do the slave unit, but I'll see when I get there. I may just do that if only to lube the splines.

As with the clutch, I've never had any problems with the pivot bearings. As long as the bike keeps handing great, I won't consider replacing them. Just keep them properly adjusted - very important.

For perspective on my bike, 82K of the 87K are mine. So I'm pretty confident that the clutch disc, slave unit, and pivot bearings are still the originals.

Also for perspective, I had 114K on my old '85 K100RS, and never had to replace a clutch. Bought one once, but never had to install it. I think your failure at only 30K is very premature and I'd be concerned about previous owner abuse.
At 30K I'm certain it's not a friction plate wear issue.

Regardless what the slippage issue ends up being, while I have it apart I will replace the O-ring (thanks, Beech) and rear main seal as preventative maintenance. (I've torn a bunch of earlier K clutches apart so pretty much know what I'm doing on that front.)

Just in case I need them, I found a PDF of the BMW repair manual on-line and a Clymer with a beat up front cover for only $14 shipped on Ebay.
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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Discussion Starter #13
You might consider a weep hole (very similar in function to a water pump weep hole) in the slave cylinder housing while you have the bike apart. The tiny throw-out bearing in the slave cyl piston is turning with the engine AT ALL TIMES. When the bearing fails or the slave just starts leaking from old age the hydraulic fluid has no escape except down the clutch rod to the clutch, requiring another clutch job. AMHIK. There are several easy ways to create a weep hole at the housing. I have pics if you want them.

If you have the OEM rubber brake lines you are living on borrowed time. DOT4 eats them from the inside, either locking the brake or bursting the line. It's not the miles but the years that destroy them. Those should be replaced with Spiegler or Galfer braided stainless PTFE lines. An ease one day, $250 fix at home.

DO get the Viton ring from Beech!!
Yes, in my Googling I've seen comments on drilling a weep hole for the clutch. I know some people have issues with "defiling" stock parts but I'm not one of them. I am certainly interested in any pics you have.

I will probably redo the brake lines once I get the clutch sorted. Motobins has SS lines I've installed on some of my other Ks for a lot less than Galfer or Spiegler so I'll probably go that route.
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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Discussion Starter #15
I also have a '98 K1200 in the taxi livery. It's a beautiful bike.

My clutch started slipping and I found it was the slave cylinder leaking fluid onto the clutch. I decided to change just the slave cylinder and hoped that the clutch would slowly come back, which it did. I have been riding it for several more years without any slipping.
I suggest you try this as it is much less work than changing the clutch. I don't think your bike has enough miles on it to have gone through a clutch.

I used a short bottle jack under the crank case to support the bike.
I've seen mention of that in my research. My first step will be to see if the clutch system just needs bleeding or it's a leaky slave.
 

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I also just recently got a 2000 K1200RS with 20K miles,
and my local mechanic was taking about drilling the same hole for me.

I am currently putting on bars up and pegs down, to fit me.

The high seat position looks a bit odd, but my body likes it.

Lets keep in touch, and we can talk old flying bricks.

Larry
 

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