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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This fucking bitch. Drove at 20mph in front of me. Probably a stoner or on her phone. Well as a result I was stuck behind her for a good 5 or so minutes on bumpy-ish shit roads, lugging around in 2nd gear, wreaking havoc to my engine/clutch components.

As things go open up, I can immediately tell something’s not right with the bike. It’s revving very shittily, and spitting and backfiring.

I called in a favo and got the bike home. I don't need to risk more drivetrain damage The bike starts and runs, but I wasn’t going to risk riding it home. It runs shittily. Down on power, rough running. My suspicion is the chain jumped a tooth. Another possibility someone brought up is a coil got knocked loose. It could explain what I'm feeling but I somehow doubt it.

This sucks. This all around sucks. To add insult to injury, while waiting in the parking lot I managed to drop the bike (facing forward on a downhill,) the bike somehow lifted its kickstand and fell on the left side. My brand new left fairing now has scratches all over it, and my left mirror is messed up. I think the bulb is broken. I did have the left luggage bag on, so less damage on the other side.

Abject bullshit. I got my second coronavirus injection yesterday, so I've felt shitty in general. I really should have just stayed home, but in truth I wasn't expecting driving too SLOWLY would damage my bike.

Freshly detailed and a brand new rear tire too:
28602



[edit]

Solved! See here:
 

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Don’t panic. $$ bet says a coil is bad
Start the bike on center stand or wheel stand rear and hold it on throttle. Lay underneath the bike and spray something like WD40 on each header pipe as high up as possible. If a cylinder is not firing the WD40 will not burn off that header. At least you will then know which coil is faulty.

Not an easy job to replace a coil unless you have the tools to vacuum fill the cooling system which has to be drained.
 

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Also unless you have access to gear like GS911 that can read fault codes and live data, then you will go in circles trying to isolate your problem. If you don't have the equipment then it is time to take it to a trusted local bmw or euro bike shop.
 

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After you get it running sweet again I have a K1300 S exhaust can for you. Pay the shipping…. It sounds much better and is lighter looks nicer than the stock elephant dildo looking canister 😜
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don’t panic. $$ bet says a coil is bad
Start the bike on center stand or wheel stand rear and hold it on throttle. Lay underneath the bike and spray something like WD40 on each header pipe as high up as possible. If a cylinder is not firing the WD40 will not burn off that header. At least you will then know which coil is faulty.

Not an easy job to replace a coil unless you have the tools to vacuum fill the cooling system which has to be drained.
About to test it, but I was going to use my hand to feel the headers xD

Maybe I’ll get the non-contact thermometer.
Almost went down the 24-hour rabbit hole of getting a hacked ISTA+ running, but decided against it. I don’t have a GS-911 either. I have the fuel tank off right now to make sure nothing completely retarded is disconnected (IAT sensor). That checks out.

Will report back after checking headers
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Will clearing the codes solve the problem or do I need to double check my coils or do I need to do both?

Will the computer disable a cylinder if it detects a misfire?
 

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Computer does not disable a "cylinder". Looks like you lost a coil or the led has disconnected. Euromoto electric on line or maybe even Ebay is a good source for coils.
As mentioned you can't get to them without removing the radiator. Do a search on refilling the coolant. There is a procedure and a vacuum arrangement is needed.
Something like this but there are others, they use compressed air through a venturi to create a vacuum. you need 25" or better.
Seems like someone is throwing the book of problems at your bike. You also need the coil puller so that you can get a grip on it without damaging it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Seems like someone is throwing the book of problems at your bike.
You can say that again. In addition: my level height on my ESA is Kaput, and my stabilizer bar is leaking oil.

On some vehicles, the computer will disable a cylinder upon detection of a misfire. If this is the case for this bike, a simple reset could bring it back to life, however it appears that’s not the case. I do have a vacuum filler tool and an air compressor to re-install everything.
 

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Fried_Chicken,
Get the coil puller off Amazon, about $12. Use a screw driver on both sides and gradually put upward pressure continuously to pull the coil off. Check this thread:
Going to change spark plugs this winter...
It has info on replacing plugs and the anti-freeze refill. Basically same stuff you will have to do to change the coil. The anti-freeze re-fill is not really that hard. Get the kit off Amazon. I waited 3 weeks from ebay and all the pieces were not in the kit. Had another kit from Amazon in 2 days.
Don't get so upset. It's just a machine and can be fixed.:) The rewards will out weight the negatives. Don't forget to get the o-ring at the water pump housing that you will remove when taking off the radiator.
 

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Just ordered the coil puller. I have the refill tool.

Is the O-Ring generic or proprietary?
It's a BMW part. Not expensive, about $5 so I would get it from BMW dealer. If it has never been removed before, it will be flat shaped. 43x3mm O ring, brown in color, has to resist anti-freeze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just removed the hose from the radiator instead of the hose from the pump.

Got the radiator off, might do some cleaning on that. The coil removal tool will be here Monday. I should probably go ahead and order spark plugs, and maybe coils.
 
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