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Discussion Starter #1
Went to go for a ride Wednesday night and my battery would turn the bike over 2-3 times and stop. Did this several times. No battery/slow starting issues before, so I found it weird that the battery would just up and die so suddenly, but alas it did. Picked up new battery (off brand) and installed it last night. Bike turns over MUCH faster than before, but it was late and raining so it stayed in the garage. Got on the bike tonight for a quick ride, fires right up, but ABS light is solid. Never blinks, no noises at all from the pump. Only residual braking.

I’ve searched this forum and MOA, and poured thru the clymer manual, but haven’t found anyone with the same problem. Very strange that the pump doesn’t even seem to have its own fuse. But it’s quite clear the iABS unit isn’t getting any power..
 

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ABS I can be damaged while changing the battery

ABS I can be damaged while changing the battery - the unit is very close to the battery. I learned this the Hard $$$ way. Since I had more time than money I had the dealer test the unit - "failed". Was told to replace the unit at more than I paid for the bike $$$$.$$. I had them take it out and I broke the seal and opened it up - they said it was junk anyway. I have attached picture of the internals. I found the damaged board components and replace and jumpered the bad circuit board traces. I put it back together, had it retest (past) and reinstalled. 3 years now with no problems. (CAUTION) if you are not experienced with circuit board repairs - DO NOT! do this yourself - it is your life on the line here. It cost less than $40 in parts and several hours of my time @125.00 per hour - so about $280.00 in real time money. There are, in most locals, places that will repair circuit boards with NO guarantees. If you tell them that it is an ABS unit - they will not take it -Life safety and Legal liability. I do not either. You can see above the red and back wires were the circuit tract blew out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just took the bike out to test the speedo figuring the most logical path forward would be to bypass the abs completely. But no speedo. So bypass doesn’t appear to be an option..

The dealer can stilll get the unit. For $2795.80.

I bought this bike last year with 4021 miles on it. It’s still under 12k. I absolutely love this bike and honestly don’t really care for anything else on the market at the moment (new). Totally lost here now with no idea what to do.
 

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are You thinking of getting the dealer to do the work or do it your self? I put a second hand unit ( made sure the part numbers matched and no error codes) in my grandsons bike a year ago, running like a dream since. Paid $400 for the unit and zip for labour.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I could find a unit for $400 I’d be over the moon. But at the moment I’m leaning toward an ABS-ectomy. I’ve got all the tupperware off the bike, I’ve watched videos and read threads, blogs, watched videos & digested the Cylmer manual. I have 100% confidence in the brakes less the abs unit. Many in fact claiming the bike feels better without. (I never had an issue until now). My main problem is the speedo/odo & brake lights. With all the plastic off, I unplugged the iABS unit and took a quick test ride - no change. The circuit board is fried.

So my plan is to get the brakes solid. There are several wiring diagrams online for making the brake lights work. I have some ideas on the speedo - I’ll post updates to this thread as I progress.
 

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If you are not confident about trying to fix the circuit board aren’t you up for a replacement unit anyway just to get the lights & Speedo working.
What about sending your unit to the people that were trying to fix them, they would likely be able to fix a board, I think they were in Tennessee. Search on the ibmw site for iabs repairers. Or search for posts by Merlin Geikie, he was not ultimately successful but worth a try.

Alex
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
If I could find a replacement board, or repair mine, that would be ideal. And the simplist retrofit. But either way, the abs-ectomy is happening. I’ve not only come to peace with it, but ultimately think it’s better knowing this $3000 grenade is no longer on the bike and can’t fail.

I just ordered 4 custom lines from spiegler. The abs kit consists of 6 lines, I only need the 2 front lower and the distribution box, the front and rear lines are custom. I’ll post pictures and the order with part numbers for others who find this thread..

The electronic part of this I’ll figure out once I have a rolling/stopping bike again. The brake lights are well documented, a couple of relays and you have brakes. The speedo is another story, but I have ideas. I’m hard-headed and I’m going to try to get the abs sensor (which is speed sensor!) in the rear to send a signal. I also ordered a $15 used speed sensor from an earlier kbike from eBay. No idea if it’ll work either, or if the reluctor is even correct, but it was $15 so who cares. It’ll either be stupid or brilliant. Other options include a gps speed sensor sending unit. Jegs has one for $115, with variable pps settings. I can’t find any documentation on what bmw used, but logic dictates that they didn’t need to reinvent the wheel here (who knows). Worst case, I’ll hack up the stock guages and install a gps speedo with odo in place if the original (least desirable option). But either way, brakes and lights gets me back on the road and my phone can give me speed for the meantime...
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Excellent news for you, the reader currently panicking because your iABS unit just died!!

I just called module masters in Idaho. They will be rebuilding the iABS units by the end of this month (Aug 2018). Call them now!!

For me - I’m already committed to the ‘ectomy. Custom lines arrive today and not only do I not want to wait, but I think I’ll rest easier knowing this can’t fail again. And I will send the control board to module masters, they are already repairing them. This greatly simplifies the speedo/brake light fix..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update

Bike mostly back together, took a quick test ride just down the street (no traffic). Custom lines work out as planned. As I was packaging up the module to send it out it occurred to me to plug it in and test it just for giggles. And much to my surprise I was greeted with a blinking abs light and working brake lights!! So I commenced to fabricating an aluminum cover plate, sealed it up with rtv and let it it overnight. Next morning wrapped it in a rag and put in in the now giant empty spot and alas, solid light, no brake lights. Test ride aborted. Disassembled custom cover, tried again, brake lights! Several power cycles later, no brake lights. Did this several times, pretty much confirming and intermittent fault on the board. Module is in the mail on its way to module masters where they can hopefully repair it.

I’ve got a custom mount in progress and I should be able to get all the Tupperware back on so it’s just a matter of securing the module when it comes back. I’ll post pictures when it’s all said and done..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Another update.

Received the control module back from Module Masters on Saturday, re-assembled the bike and 200+ miles later and no problems at all.

Pictures & video(s) to follow.

Initial impressions: No more whining pumps, no more flashing lights. Initially, I noted that the front brake lacked the hard bite it used to have, but it turns out that’s due to a ‘defect’ in the brake linking module (new linking module is now located between your ears)! Once you get used to using both brakes again, and progressively applying the back brake as you slow, it’s all pretty much the same. Besides, you probably don’t really want a grabby/bitey Front brake w/abs disabled. :)

Bottom line, if/when you are faced with this failure, the only downside to ditching the system is the obvious (no more abs). But after that, you can rest assured the bike functions completely normal and anyone unfamiliar would never know it didn’t come this way.
 
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