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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 k1200rs and for no apparant reason after warming up the idle goes from 1000 to 1500 and stays there regardless of the context. my question is what is the best way to deteremine cause. some of the other thread have said it may be vacuum hose problem. but there is no surge in rpm it just goes to 1500.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
idle

ok there is a concensus that it is the vacuum hoses. do you have a reference on how i can get to them without taking apart all the plastic? the simpler the better.
 

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There's no idle adjustment for the K, so you know. Your symptoms match 100% a vacuum leak. Remove your left side panel, and most likely you'll find a loose vacuum (there're 4) from the solenoid that sucks fumes from the canister. Cut the tip of the hoses, and insert them all the way in. Other than removing all that crap (like I did), that should take care of your problem for a while.
The other reason for high idle, but not that high (I had it), and only when hot, are misadjusted throttle cables (as of too tight).
Ks don't usually idle perfectly, so expect some very mild fluctuation, but always around 1K rpm. Hope this helps.
JC
 

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do you have auxiliary lights switched on while the bike is idling? The Motronic will compensate by bumping the idle up to keep the battery voltage charged up. If this is not the case, then what they said above.
 

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rmarvit said:
ok there is a concensus that it is the vacuum hoses. do you have a reference on how i can get to them without taking apart all the plastic? the simpler the better.
Well, in a nutshell, the plastic has to come off. Daunting task the first time, but after a couple of sessions, it's not the horrifying experience you might initially think it is. Nose piece is fun, and so will the left-side panel, as they have other means of attachment besides the screws. There are four screws holding the nose piece on, and then the tabs that require a bit of faith when finally removing the nose piece. But, it pops off.
I don't remember how many screws there are with the side panel, then the grommet/pin connection about the center (vertically) and inline (appx) with the rear of the gas cap. Finally, two tabs on the top connecting to the gas tank center piece (you end up lifting up, with the rear coming up in an arc). Might take you an hour the first time, but once done, takes 15 minutes afterwards.



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Yes Razel, I'm glad you referred to it as a daunting task! In my ignorance I thought I'd be able to get the nose piece off to get to my headlamp unit dead easy. But as you say, it's interlocked with the side plastics - when they didn't need to try hard to make it separately removable. But then the rear side plastics are the same. Why doesn't German logic say, 'make the small body bits easily removable and the harder big bits only when you really need them off?'

I recently had a real bad experience with the (expensive) side panels I'll share. I've had these off so many times I'm not a beginner at it. But having removed all the fixings the last time, I pulled at the panel to pull off the grommet in the panel from the peg.

Unfortunately it was cold, my grip was higher up near the curve behind the tank and I put a small hair width crack in the panel behind the tank. Fortunately, I could make a near invisible repair with ABS bonding adhesive on the back.

When the BMW grommet got lost on the opposite panel I'd fitted a rubber electrical grommet that was much looser and needed less force to lift the panel. I've now got the same size grommet on both sides, plenty of silicon grease and wished I'd done it sooner.



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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
idle adjustment

I called my mechanic to see if he had a suggestion and he said he sets the idle at 1500 warm as it is better for the engine etc. so that 1000 cold is what is to be expected. my question is whether there is any harm in running 1500 at idle other than gas and creeping. also if it was indeed 1500 due to a vacuum hose problem would this be a further problem if not handled?
thanks for the help.
 

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rmarvit said:
I called my mechanic to see if he had a suggestion and he said he sets the idle at 1500 warm as it is better for the engine etc. so that 1000 cold is what is to be expected. my question is whether there is any harm in running 1500 at idle other than gas and creeping. also if it was indeed 1500 due to a vacuum hose problem would this be a further problem if not handled?
thanks for the help.
I don't think you will find a single person on this site whose K1200 idles at 1,500rpm. My '04 KRS idles at a steady 1,050-1,100rpm. and I am happy with that.
I think you just have to bite the bullet and take off the plastic and fuel tank. Then check each and every vacuum line. If you find one cracked or disconnected, bring it to your dealership with a jar of KY jelly. If there is no leaks, chalk it up to a good experence.
Bruce C
 

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If you don't know how to take off the tupperware you don't belong under it.

Hell I take it apart just to wax it.

Bazra
aka; The Flash
 

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brucecha said:
I don't think you will find a single person on this site whose K1200 idles at 1,500rpm. My '04 KRS idles at a steady 1,050-1,100rpm. and I am happy with that.
Ditto....that mechanic is pulling your ____.
 

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I thought when they pushed up the earlier K's from 950 to 1,050 - 1,100 even that seemed too much. But when you've got to minimise the rattles, make the alternator, catalyser and O2 sensor work, I think that's why they did it.

Anyway, I thought the idle was fixed in the Motronic ECU. Any attempt to push it up fiddling with the throttle cable or TPS will just screw up the critical offsets which calibrate the ECU at start up in the throttle stop position. That's why everybody says 'look for a problem' if your idle isn't 1050-1100.



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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
idle throttle cable

thanks for all the help. i did take the panel off and there was not hose problem. went for a ride and the throttle cable broke about five inches from the handle bar. so my next question is this a design defect or what . the bike has 13k miles and its seems unrealistic that the cable should brake. does it need lubrication somehow? it looked dry. also there are two cable grooves. i assume one is if you have cruise control which i don't. otherwise someone has not put in the return cable.
 
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