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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Usually, any time a bike doesn't start, a couple preliminary checks validating fuel and ignition will usually isolate or tend to steer you toward the reason your bike won't start. Barring any major malfunction, such as timing, most of the problems will eventually surface, sometimes with a little help from your friends (such as this site).
I purchased this bike today and it wasn't running. It refused to start. Now you may say why the hell did you want a bike that didn't run, well the bike has no miles on it and it is probably an 8 out of 10 for an 86. It belonged to a widow and she needed the money. Corbin, bags, top box, new battery, tires, extra windscreen and seat, plus she threw in a brand new /5 tank (white). I paid less than a grand for the bike. It isn't starting. I removed the fuel line to fuel log, spliced in a length of tube and hit the starter, lots of fuel came out. So that eliminated the filter and pump for the time being. I replaced the plugs but still no start. I pulled the cap off #1 plug, put in a spare, grounded it and hit the starter. Lots of spark!!!! So why doesn't it want to start???!!! I have fuel and ignition. The only thing I cannot guarantee is that the injectors are working and not plugged. The gas smelled like Pepsi-Cola so I drained it and intend to put fresh gas in it tomorrow. There was lots of debris in the bottom of the tank of the tank. If it would get through the filter, is it possible that the injectors would plug? BTW, when I changed plugs, they were dry which is a symtom of no fuel even tho the pump is working and the filter is passing gas.
Is there a way to remove and clean the injectors? Thanks....
89K100rs-R90s-R69s-R60/5-R75/5-A couple Ducs and a Jap dirt bike.
 

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Don't try starting it again until the tank is cleaned and replace the filter. The rubber damper that holds the fuel pump is notorious for turning to goo in old gas and fouling up the pump & injectors. New ones are a little pricey http://www.beemerboneyard.com/16121461576nk.html
The injectors can be removed an checked, never tried it myself. Hopefully someone else will chime in. Good luck, sounds like a steal. All of the bodily fluids probably need to be changed, flush the brakes, and if the tires are 5 years old change em.
 

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Go here...

Check this URL:

http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

Read everything on there and you will be a good way to figuring out your problem.

Not the least could be the swill that's in the tank, but there could be a reason the injectors are not firing (or that "lots of fuel" is some, but not enough pressure to feed the injectors).

It's a complex system but with some of the troubleshooting guides you will find through that URL you will be able to figure out the fault.

Got a Clymers? Buying one and reading it sitting next to the bike with a couple of cold ones will go a long way to helping you understand what is and is not happening with the bike.
 

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mister injector

I am no expert. But I recently solved the same with a long parked K75C. Here's how:

The fuel rail is a snap to remove. Square section tube on the port side. remove one hose forward, one aft. Two bolts secure the rail. Lift the rail out with all the injectors. Each injector secures to the rail with a clip. Wrap each in a sock and mail them to Mister Injector (mrinjector.com). For sixteen bucks a pop, he will run a test before and after cleaning. Don't make the mistalke I did of ordering new O-rings. He provides them. Next day turn-around.

Meanwhile, I also found black goo in the tank. Everything rubber had turned to tarballs. Had to replace pump, screen, shoulder, and every hose in there. Now she purrs like a kitten.

Sounds like you scored on this project.

p.s. I must say I have never ever worked on a machine that is so well thought out. Every year I bring one or two bikes back to life. Just like to play with steel. This K, every fastener is robust, well placed, and each piece is built like a brick shithouse. Very fine machine to work on.
 

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If you really want to see if the injector is spraying and it sounds like its not, you can pop one out and see if sprays. Sometimes I like to see it for myself before screwing around replacing parts.

Depending on the conditions of the injectors:
You can also put in new injectors after sorting out the goo. A well known fact that you can use ford injectors which supposedly increases power.

http://k100rt.aforumfree.com/engine-and-transmission-f10/injectors-for-ford-trucks-as-replacment-for-k100-injectors-t259.htm

This guys sells them on ebay if you're looking for a cheap fix. $95 bucks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-K100-Motorcycle-Reconditioned-Fuel-Injectors-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eaff3fff1QQitemZ200520499185QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_540wt_851

p.s. I must say I have never ever worked on a machine that is so well thought out. Every year I bring one or two bikes back to life. Just like to play with steel. This K, every fastener is robust, well placed, and each piece is built like a brick shithouse. Very fine machine to work on.
I agree, there is a mechanical robustness found in the old k bikes that are satisfying to work on. Plus having been brought up working on beater cars/trucks I've owned the k-brick is like an old friend. No fancy oils, dry clutch, long service intervals, everything easy to get to (mostly).
 

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Mr. Inject

Duck,

Did they give you a before/after flow report etc?

I'm thinking of pulling mine and sending them off soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lukeman,
Great website on your trip from DC to Gaspe, Canada. I went to school in DC back in the 50's. I pulled the injectors and went to a garage where they were found to be working just fine. Nice spray of fuel. I pulled the filter and it was very hard to blow thru. The fuel pump rubber cradle was completely gooed up. The pump is not bound up. I had enough for the day as my 70 yr old legs started hurting. Tomorrow I'm going after a new filter and I'm going to get some rubber hose about 1.5 inches, split it, and use it for the dampening on the pump.
Liked the looks on your stripped 85. I've always rode cafe style with not alot of windscreen. Thanks for your input....................Harper (Vince)
 

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tg4360 said:
Duck,

Did they give you a before/after flow report etc?

I'm thinking of pulling mine and sending them off soon.
I can't remember if you get flow reports or not. I throw paper away. He's done a couple of sets for me. I trust his work. The last two sets I sent I know were clogged since the donor engines had sat for so long. On the very last set he even commented about how clogged they were. Those injectors are currently in my K75 Frankenbike which runs like a top with those injectors.
 

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tg4360 said:
Duck,

Did they give you a before/after flow report etc?

I'm thinking of pulling mine and sending them off soon.
Yes they did. Like ocelot I recenty resurrected a K75. I found a thread where duck was recommending Mr Injector. At that time the bike was running pretty well but I still had a stumble like condition. I had pulled the plugs and the front #1 looked fine #2 was darker and #3 was wet. Had spark etc, so I sent the injectors off on a Monday in the mail and had them back Sat. It was interesting to me that the report agreed with the condition of the spark plugs. One had a good pattern another was fair and the third was poor. Put the cleaned injectors in and she ran like a top. For $16 a piece it was a great deal I thought.
 

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Good Info

TY both for the info.

I'm not having any running problems but I've been on a "replace every bit of rubber on the bike" mission since I got her last year and that seems a good way to take care of the injector O rings.
 

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Cleaning Injectors at home

A BMW mechanic told me he pulls the fuel rail with the fuel lines still attached and fires the injectors manually by connecting them directly to the battery. He then reverses the polarity repeatedly. Until they are clear. Apparently the direct shot of juice from the battery really forces them to open.

You could even rig your fuel pump to pump fuel from a jar with a strong chevron tekron like a dative.
 
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