Just got my K1300R
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Joined
·
186 Posts
I've kinda had a thing for the K1300R but they are far less common here in the US. Clean examples are hard to find.
BTW, I have a very nice set of SW-Motech pannier brackets for that bike if you're interested. They are very heavy duty and can be adapted to many different luggage mounting systems. They're currently set up for GIVI. I need them out of my garage if you're willing to pay shipping from the US.
BTW, I have a very nice set of SW-Motech pannier brackets for that bike if you're interested. They are very heavy duty and can be adapted to many different luggage mounting systems. They're currently set up for GIVI. I need them out of my garage if you're willing to pay shipping from the US.
Thanks guys.
Going to be parking it in my nice warm garage and attending to a couple of cosmetic bits I’m tidying up over winter.
Just a side question. Where the hell do folks put a lock for storage on these bikes?!
There’s no cubby storage anywhere!
not under the seat, nothing!
Going to be parking it in my nice warm garage and attending to a couple of cosmetic bits I’m tidying up over winter.
Just a side question. Where the hell do folks put a lock for storage on these bikes?!
There’s no cubby storage anywhere!
not under the seat, nothing!
Joined
·
323 Posts
All you need now is the full Akra system that’s just turned up on the other forum, a true rarity...and nothing todo with me....
So, rebuilt my clutch basket with new springs, barnet clutch etc..
just ine really silly question.
When reassembled do the staggered teeth view aligned with each other?
Or another way of putting it is, as i align the teeth in order to reinstall the clutch basket and then slide the basket back into the bike and onto the oil pump drive boss do the teeth then remain aligned?
Are they just under tension but aligned with each other whwn reassembled correctly?
Just doubting myself now…
![Automotive tire Gear Rim Bicycle part Automotive design]()
just ine really silly question.
When reassembled do the staggered teeth view aligned with each other?
Or another way of putting it is, as i align the teeth in order to reinstall the clutch basket and then slide the basket back into the bike and onto the oil pump drive boss do the teeth then remain aligned?
Are they just under tension but aligned with each other whwn reassembled correctly?
Just doubting myself now…
Attachments
two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
Joined
·
1,269 Posts
Yes, you have to align the teeth to get the basket teeth to slip in all the way. then release the spring loaded ones. The system keeps noise a jidder out of the system. There is a small hole about 3 O'Clock that lines up both gear teeth when not staggered. Slip a drill bit or piece of welding rod in there after you pinch the gears into alignment. This will hold them as you put your back half of the basket in and engage the oil pump drive prongs.
Thanks.
ive got them engaged and have reassembled the whole thing back in the bike (except the cover) the teeth are perfectly lined and have stayed lined up now that they are back on the bike Is this correct, i think it is?
ive got them engaged and have reassembled the whole thing back in the bike (except the cover) the teeth are perfectly lined and have stayed lined up now that they are back on the bike Is this correct, i think it is?
Cheers! Thanks for the confirmation.
Yeah, the oil pump was a little hard to align, but managed it in the end using a hook tool to pull the oil pump chain around carefully until it all lined up and then the whole thing slid back in soundly.
Yeah, the oil pump was a little hard to align, but managed it in the end using a hook tool to pull the oil pump chain around carefully until it all lined up and then the whole thing slid back in soundly.
Still running smoothly clutch wise.
Is a little uneven in running to me but then I’ve no other k1300 to compare it to.
i get sub 30mpg (29.7) consistently even when cruising highway speeds. If i reset the onboard mpg whilst cruising I’ll get 34mpg but as soon as i slow down and set off again i get 29.7mpg at best.
Any usual suspects to look at o2 sensor perhaps??
Is a little uneven in running to me but then I’ve no other k1300 to compare it to.
i get sub 30mpg (29.7) consistently even when cruising highway speeds. If i reset the onboard mpg whilst cruising I’ll get 34mpg but as soon as i slow down and set off again i get 29.7mpg at best.
Any usual suspects to look at o2 sensor perhaps??
Just been experimenting a little with how I read my MPG.
If I reset the OBC whilst riding then I get around 38 MPG on the highway, but then it reverts back to an average of 27.9 MPG as soon as I hit town.
Definitely smells more petrol-y from the exhaust end of things so I think it's running rich.
I've ordered a replacement 02 sensor so am going to try switching this out.
Ok, so my replacement 2nd hand O2 sensor arrived today and i rode home this evening after work with my dusplay showing 27.9 MPG then within 30mins had removed and replaced my O2 sensor.
The old one was black with soot!
![Plant Automotive tire Brick Gas Houseplant]()
And I’ve just test ridden my bike 15 miles over to sunny Glossop and the bike is now reading 51 MPG !!!!!!!!
The old one was black with soot!
And I’ve just test ridden my bike 15 miles over to sunny Glossop and the bike is now reading 51 MPG !!!!!!!!
I do now though have the common problem of jerky response anywhere under 3500 RPM now!
Seems the rich running was helping to mask this previously and now with a working 02 sensor I’m getting lousy low speed jerkiness!
Seems the rich running was helping to mask this previously and now with a working 02 sensor I’m getting lousy low speed jerkiness!
So, i took the plunge and forked out £138 for a booster plug as i thought it would be the solution to my k1300r which generally whilst riding at under 3500 rpm runs like shit!
It bucks, and basically feels like it’s got fuel starvation a bit like an old style carb bike when the main fuel has run out and it’s time to switch the petcock over to reserve!
when running at idle it bounces around 1200rpm not smooth at all, just kind of uneven.
All the headers are hot pretty much immediately so I don’t think that a coil is ropey or anything.
I’ve not stripped it down to look at the injectors or spark plugs yet.
Before i do, anyone any pointers on why it could be running so badly??
Btw…
pre o2 sensor replacement it still ran badly busy was largely masked by the crappy old broken O2 sensor
It bucks, and basically feels like it’s got fuel starvation a bit like an old style carb bike when the main fuel has run out and it’s time to switch the petcock over to reserve!
when running at idle it bounces around 1200rpm not smooth at all, just kind of uneven.
All the headers are hot pretty much immediately so I don’t think that a coil is ropey or anything.
I’ve not stripped it down to look at the injectors or spark plugs yet.
Before i do, anyone any pointers on why it could be running so badly??
Btw…
pre o2 sensor replacement it still ran badly busy was largely masked by the crappy old broken O2 sensor
1st thing is that closed loop mapping takes a few tankfulls to be rewritten. It will have all the old adjustments from the bad o2 sensor. Unplug the battery and that should reset it to default. Then it will start adjusting based on new sensor.
Do this first to get a baseline.
Do this first to get a baseline.
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Join the discussion
