Just got my K1300R
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My idle is 1100rpm which I think is normal but the rev counter bounces slightly around that number, only very slightly but I can hear it doing it too,
Should a “good” k1300 be pretty smooth running at idle?
Should a “good” k1300 be pretty smooth running at idle?
So, i wrote to the guys at booster plug to ask for advice as when i fitted their device it appeared to make zero difference at all.
They had said to check to see I’d not trapped one of the 4 breather hoses when replacing the tank.
so I’ve removed all the plastics tonight and ive checked and they all appear fine.
I tried running the bike with the tank lifted up and back a bit too just to trial it and see if it made any difference. Idle still bounces around 1000-1100rpm with a distinct burr, burr, burr, b-burrp, burr burr, burr, b-burrp style engine sound.
(i will video it next time to illustrate, in the hope somone can advise)
whilst i had the tank out i noticed this connector which is unconnected, is this for an optional extra or something?
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![Automotive fuel system Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive air manifold Automotive design]()
They had said to check to see I’d not trapped one of the 4 breather hoses when replacing the tank.
so I’ve removed all the plastics tonight and ive checked and they all appear fine.
I tried running the bike with the tank lifted up and back a bit too just to trial it and see if it made any difference. Idle still bounces around 1000-1100rpm with a distinct burr, burr, burr, b-burrp, burr burr, burr, b-burrp style engine sound.
(i will video it next time to illustrate, in the hope somone can advise)
whilst i had the tank out i noticed this connector which is unconnected, is this for an optional extra or something?
Not sure what the problem could be now..?
Air sensor in the airbox?
Maybe an injector, or perhaps a coil?
I have tried measuring the temp on the headers with a lazer thermometer and they seemed pretty similar temps.
Perhaps I’ll measure again tomorrow?
Any sage wise folk any advise?
Air sensor in the airbox?
Maybe an injector, or perhaps a coil?
I have tried measuring the temp on the headers with a lazer thermometer and they seemed pretty similar temps.
Perhaps I’ll measure again tomorrow?
Any sage wise folk any advise?
Yeah, there appears to be nothing that it could be connected to… no loose connector elsewhere.
I did find this info in regard to the k1200 (classic) it could be that the same thing applies to the k1300..?
“This is the ONLY "loose" connector that you do NOT have to worry about - the story is this:
For K1200RS/K1200LT sold in USA market, BMW had to implement a "Tank breather valve" (also called vapor venting system for fuel tank). The system is not installed in other markets (Europe , Canada...) so there is a missing small pulse-valve normally attached on left side just above fuel-injection rail.
Because the Pulse-valve is missing (outside of USA market), this connector is loose. From factory, it is normally attached to fuel rail with a zip tie - no harm done with rain as the Motronic just sends signal at intervalls BUT does NOT care to read anything from it.”
“This is the ONLY "loose" connector that you do NOT have to worry about - the story is this:
For K1200RS/K1200LT sold in USA market, BMW had to implement a "Tank breather valve" (also called vapor venting system for fuel tank). The system is not installed in other markets (Europe , Canada...) so there is a missing small pulse-valve normally attached on left side just above fuel-injection rail.
Because the Pulse-valve is missing (outside of USA market), this connector is loose. From factory, it is normally attached to fuel rail with a zip tie - no harm done with rain as the Motronic just sends signal at intervalls BUT does NOT care to read anything from it.”
two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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Tank breather valve...could be the charcoal canister solenoid that vents the canister to the intake system on a basis determined by the computer. A fuel contaminated canister can cause a number of symptoms, poor running, vacuum in the fuel tank leading to stalling.
I agree, since it is not a US bike, sure could be that connector.
My high miles K bike has an idle about 1150 RPM that hunts up and down by 50 or so. I chock it up to old sensors and electronics. The low miles K is smoother but not a rock steady rpm.
I agree, since it is not a US bike, sure could be that connector.
My high miles K bike has an idle about 1150 RPM that hunts up and down by 50 or so. I chock it up to old sensors and electronics. The low miles K is smoother but not a rock steady rpm.
Yeah, mine is similar to you then sits around 1000 rpm but bounces about a bit.
Not too bad but the jerky throttle at anything under 3000 rpm is really killing the ride for me.
I’ve just cleaned and replaced the idle control valve in a further quest to sort this out but that made no differwnce to a test ride either.
Not too bad but the jerky throttle at anything under 3000 rpm is really killing the ride for me.
I’ve just cleaned and replaced the idle control valve in a further quest to sort this out but that made no differwnce to a test ride either.
two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
Joined
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1,264 Posts
Well, I'm leaning to the Throttle body sensor being worn out.
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These screen shots from Ebay, a used but "good" unit for $70
Here is new:
I'd try a used one first not much money to gamble, while in the states the $226 is many tacos. I bet in the UK they are around 100 pounds.
Here is one in the UK: Throttle position sensor
These screen shots from Ebay, a used but "good" unit for $70
Here is new:
13 54 8 406 249 | THROTTLE VALVE SWITCH | 62.04 | 1 | $226.57 |
Here is one in the UK: Throttle position sensor
Not sure if it's directly linked but the last 2 days my K has started to stall whenever I come to a stop and will not run at idle unless I rev the throttle to keep it running.
Reseting Throttle position helps a bit but still running badly.
Seems to be getting worse.
Reseting Throttle position helps a bit but still running badly.
Seems to be getting worse.
Really really bad today on my way from manchester to leeds it cut out at every single junction and roundabout. Essentially any time i came to a stop/or pulled the clutch.
Could maybe be from when i took out and inspected the idle control valve?
I did check it’s operation and then lightly oil it, should i have greased it?
Is the battery as specified in the manual? There was a case when the wrong battery was standing and the motorcycle stalled at idle
After yesterdays "mechanics" (see below) I have now ordered a brand new Idle control valve!
Having taken mine out last week to inspect and clean it my idle became worse and was accompanied by stalling at traffic lights.
Yesterday evening I removed fairings, tank etc and idle control valve to re-inspect.
I applied a light coating of lube and then put the bike back together. Big mistake!
Bike then idled rough and when throttle was turned even slightly the revs increased to 3000rpm and stayed there. The only way to come back down off 3000rpm was to turn off the engine.
I then took the tank off again and the ICV back out again. This time i noted that when the ignition key was turned and the bike went through it's usual clicks and whirrs with the ICV removed from the airbox the valve just juddered a bit, and then juddered when the key was turned off rather than trying to move in and out (which i understand is normal operation?) as it would inside the airbox.
So, I unscrewed the end of the valve to re-inspect (again) and make sure it was not wound too tight, also probably a big mistake?!
Reassembled everything again, and then tried to run the bike....
This time the bike simply would not maintain idle without a hint of throttle to hold it at 1000rpm, where it then held steady.
Now, previously when running the bike at idle prior to inspection it was not really possible to turn the throttle and maintain a "steady" idle. The bike would always be burbling up and down the revs as if stumbling.
for example to hold throttle at 1500 rpm it would wobble around 1500-1550, same at idle where it would bounce between 1000 and 1050.
This leads me to think that the ICV could be at fault for my shitty idle.
Anyway, we'll see when the part finally arrives!
Having taken mine out last week to inspect and clean it my idle became worse and was accompanied by stalling at traffic lights.
Yesterday evening I removed fairings, tank etc and idle control valve to re-inspect.
I applied a light coating of lube and then put the bike back together. Big mistake!
Bike then idled rough and when throttle was turned even slightly the revs increased to 3000rpm and stayed there. The only way to come back down off 3000rpm was to turn off the engine.
I then took the tank off again and the ICV back out again. This time i noted that when the ignition key was turned and the bike went through it's usual clicks and whirrs with the ICV removed from the airbox the valve just juddered a bit, and then juddered when the key was turned off rather than trying to move in and out (which i understand is normal operation?) as it would inside the airbox.
So, I unscrewed the end of the valve to re-inspect (again) and make sure it was not wound too tight, also probably a big mistake?!
Reassembled everything again, and then tried to run the bike....
This time the bike simply would not maintain idle without a hint of throttle to hold it at 1000rpm, where it then held steady.
Now, previously when running the bike at idle prior to inspection it was not really possible to turn the throttle and maintain a "steady" idle. The bike would always be burbling up and down the revs as if stumbling.
for example to hold throttle at 1500 rpm it would wobble around 1500-1550, same at idle where it would bounce between 1000 and 1050.
This leads me to think that the ICV could be at fault for my shitty idle.
Anyway, we'll see when the part finally arrives!
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