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2009 K1300GT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need your repair help/advice. Stopped riding my '09 K13GT (~53600 miles / 85K km) after noticing a lot of fuel leaking. It's always had the fuel vapor smell in the 1.5 years I've had it. With panels off and on side stand, the fuel is coming out behind the water pump after running just a short time. Looks to be mixed with oil I would think from residual seepage from the valve cover gasket (replaced with new after valve clearance check). It's completely dry at the quick connect and flange, and nothing at the evap/charcoal canister. With tank removed, it looks wet near where the head mates to the block. My assessment is the return at the fuel rail is the culprit, as it has sufficient supply pressure for the injectors to fire. What I need from anyone who is familiar with this problem and/or repaired themselves is:

1. Is my assessment correct?
2. Other methods to confirm the source of leak or confirm a correct repair?
3. Since the airbox needs to come out, are there specific parts, tools, or supplies suitable (including other than BMW) you would recommend?
4. Other helpful comments and suggestions welcome.

Yes, I have access to the BMW factory manual procedure and have a GS-911. Getting it done quickly isn't a concern, getting it done right is. I'm retired and will gleefully pay myself $120+ an hour to solve this myself.
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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1,417 Posts
Something is wrong with your fuel rail or associated piping. You have to remove the air box to get to it. Number the hoses that go to the idle valve. The clamps that hold the air box rubber connections to the throttle bodies use clickit hose clamps. they are an over riding locking little thing. Do not cut them but use a right angle pick and needle nose pliers or the correct tool is this:
They are used one way to remove and 180 degree turn around to install. Find a video on youtube to help. You may have to set the fuel tank back in with no air box to turn on the key but not start the bike. The fuel pressure should show the leak. Go slow, take pictures be careful with tricky electrical connectors. Force not needed (much) so find their secrets to open. I keep a tube of dielectric grease and mush some into the female connectors to seal things a bit. A spray can of electronic cleaner would be handy, not brake cleaner. The secondary air tube from the bottom of the air box to the rocker cover gets brittle with age so do not bend much. You may be ordering a new one and then the radiator drama will need to be done to access the tube attachment in that area.
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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1,417 Posts
If you don't already have a little pouch of 4 or 5 O-ring picks, I suggest you buy one somewhere cheap, So handy. I use the right angle one to carefully lift the locking tab on flat connectors and then with the other hand a flat screwdriver to lever the ridges of the connector apart. Opening the connector. Do not lift the lock tab much as you will break it off. Just enough to be over the lock bump.
 
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