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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!
An other newbie, with the same problem!
So this beeeeaautiful piece of German technology starts to get seriously on my nerfs!
Had the stalling when slowing down in 3rd or 2nd, had the very reluctant to restart when hot (and had stalled)
A chance I did not get in an accident as the last few stalls were in heavy traffic and it is a miracle nobody rear-ended me!

Now it simply does not crank anymore!
Battery is good 13.2 even with the starter switch on,
I can hear the relay clicking but does not engage!
Neutral, stand up, clutch in...
Checked the red kill switch!: which to my surprise is perfectly good!
But now I am lost!
Does this nice bike have a fuse box?
Did German engineers want us to take the engine off the bike in order to change a fuse?!?!, or just the fuel tank!

Any input would be much appreciated!
 

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Hi, no sound at all?
My K1300S -12 refused to, it was the "free wheel starter ring".
 

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No fuses . Does the starter run? If not it is either the starter itself or the wiring to the starter.
But the switchsets on the handlebars are known ro fail, was on recall, if you have the old style that is wherw i would start.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes No sound what so ever!
It had a 3 week period where it was slow and seemed to engage with hesitation ( a bit like a weak battery/ but with good charge on the battery itself) and the hotter the engine, the less it would crank easy!

Thank you for the no fuse info! At least I will not spend time looking for them!
Yes I was aware of the switches failing that was why I went directly to that one to check! But is works perfectly, without hesitation each time!

Can you please tell me where the starter is and how to access ??
I will start with those wires/contacts and see then!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I hope I fried the starter relay, as it seems to be the case when the hesitation from battery or what ever other cause happens!

Any location for that one!???? It is the one which clicks on pressing the start switch!
 

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To get to the starter, strip every top panel of the bike, remove battery, remove fueltank, remove intake, basicly just start from the top and remove everything until you get down to it, sits on top of the engineblock were it meets the transmissionhousing.

Can arrange for pictures later tonight.

But start with checking the relay, if it clicks, check that it gives power out to starter, it could be bad just because the solenoid works.
 

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In your very first post you say "Battery is good 13.2 even with the starter switch on". This is not a load test unless the starter is spinning trying to start the bike, then it will read about 10 volts. Less than 9.5 it is trash. I still think you have not proven the battery is good. It can read 13.2 volts and still have a weak cell or other problems. Here is a mailed to your door good battery. About 80$. You fill it with acid, wait a half hour and charge with your motorcycle trickle charger for 4 hours. Then install. The instructions that come with are easy to follow.
https://www.atbatt.com/yuasa-ytx14-bs-12ah-200-cca-maintenance-free-powersports-battery/
If you do some searching there is a hot start wire harness from BMW that fits in parallel with the bike wiring to help with poor starting when the bike is hot. That start relay you are about to dive in for is hard to get to and I have only heard of the K12 ones failing. Weld closed due to low battery charge. In any case, please follow up with what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Not very difficult to get to, with the good help form Mattias_r! Thank you mate!

Got the tank off and the beautiful relay was there!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The green little box!
And as I am curious... I took a look inside!

Sure enough the power wire is not as Miss BMW wanted it to be ( with clear traces of overheating) but still in continuity.
So I cleaned a bit the tinny contact surface (that is supposed to take all the starter curent) and tested the thing again!
MIRACLE ! It works ( just a bit of oxydation on those contacts was all the trouble!)
Heading to the dealership to get a new relay...thinking very hard that I would have expected better form German engineering geniuses!

Thank you all for the help
It is still a nice bine, but the riders are much better!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Given the fact that the good BMW dealership does not have the relay in stock, I will have time to clean the airbox and the throttle body, just to see if it does improve the idle stalling ( yes she does that on the 2013 model as well)
If not I think it will be a dynojet commander for her... or go to Ducati!

Many thanks to all that helped... highly appreciated!
 

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While you have it open as far as you do, remove the starter and open it up to clean it of dust and crap. Lube the pinion gear and its bearing. Inspect the brushes which should be okay. Maybe even remove main output lead on the alternator and clean contact surfaces. Nothing like a little maintenance when the opportunity presents itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nice idea!
I will spend some quality time! See if our relationship gets better!
 

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While you have the tank off replace the crap plastic fuel line disconnects. I’ve had good luck with AFXIED fuel injection controller to relieve, if not eliminate running issues, but Beemer Boneyard appears to be out of stock at this time. They carry proper metal fuel line disconnects, though. The plastic disconnects WILL break!

Beemerboneyard.com

Sorry the link to the URL doesn’t want to cooperate today.
 

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have you got the issue fixed or is it still in fail mode ? mine got the same problem though but more of a total stall either way in riding but mostly when ´gearing down,,,battery shining dead flashing so on.
BMW know that it can be the computer board crasching also.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All good with the starter relay,
Quick connects are replaced with old style continuous line!

Airbox cleaned, see how she runs when all put back!

Thank you all for the suggestions and the help!
 

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If you know the ratings of the relay or the max current of the starter, you can easily find a generic relay and I'm sure it will be a small fraction of the cost of a BMW part. It may not fit exactly, but you could use the old BMW one and cut it up to cannibalize the connector to adapt the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was so tempted to do that specially when the dealership told me they need 2 weeks to get it!, But bottom line a private garage got it in 48h for around 25US$ so i went for it!.

Funny part is that when putting back the air box, I found a 2 lead connector which was totally unplugged on the airbox!
Pics show the place and the connector! Does anybody know what that is?

Even better, after the whole TLC session with cleaning of the throttle body, airbox and Co, the charming lady works great: no more stalling when downshifting hot, nice pull even with very low rpm and all around nicer behaviour! ( It has been only 2 days and not more than 100Km so let us hope the computer does not
 

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