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Hello everyone. I got that beautiful bike about a month ago. It has always been my dream bike. It's 2011.2500 miles on it.almost nothing. I took it for a first ride today. Have to say, I'm a little confused and disappointed...Before i took it for a test drive ,it was showing low oil through the tube...i was surprised when i first saw that for the first time i got the bike home..when i bought it from a guy who sold it to me, the bike was already running when I got there.did not notice any warning lights, nothing on dashboard was suspicious.everything looked great, so i bought it. Bike is in pristine condition. I had the guy bring it to my house, when I was not home. He brought the bike in uhaul trailer. All good. He put it on centre stand and left.when i got home and started it, it was showing a few flashing lights, but after a couple of starts all of them dissapeared. Except low oil level through the tube. I topped it up before first ride today. It took almost 3/4 litter.i have to say I've never ridden k1300s before. First thing I noticed it started feeling vibrations around 5500 rpm.it was felt through the entire bike.seat,handlebars, footpegs. I was shocked. Didn't expect that at all. A few years back i had k1200 gt.there was nothing like that. Smooth as butter. K1300s was nothing like that. When i got on a highway the vibrations disappeared at faster speeds, but lower rpm is no good. Love that bike, but I'm concerned. Is it something that's normal for that bike, or i got a problem?? I did maybe 30 miles today. I would like to keep it, but i don't know if my bike is ok.another thing. Now oil level shows way above maximum level!!!what is going on??i topped it up way before max level, but above minimum before I took it for a ride. Engine cooled off already ,and the oil level is still too high!what's going on?very fast and comfortable and I'd like to keep it. Please any advice as to what might be a problem, or is it normal?i also have Yamaha xsr 900,and that thing vibrates a little above 120km/h,but nothing like bmw at 5500rpm.i can hear my exhaust shield making noise it is so bad. Sorry for the long post, but i need some help from the experts pls.thx
 

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Gizu,

There are some guys on here that know way more about this than I do. Here are my thoughts. I have had trials with the oil level readings on the tube also. I use the the dipstick under the seat with the bike on level ground on the center stand. The manual I believe states to check the bike on level ground and read the tube. However, I find that the tube reads most correctly when I have it on the side stand. Someone else can comment on this and their experiences.
There should be no vibrations in the engine. Mine is smooth as glass. The transmission is clunky, especially in first and second. I have a 2006 K1200S. Does the engine vibrate with the bike sitting still while you rev it to riding speed? Is the vibration only while the bike is moving? If so it could be wheels, drive shaft, etc.

du907
 

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Well, welcome. Sorry for the troubles. Diagnosing a K bike is a trick that takes a lot of information to narrow things down. I suggest you open your wallet and have a dealer take a look. There are a lot of things but looking at the computer for faults with a reading tool will help narrow things down. It will give you a base to work from and they may find something quickly. I often get slammed for this suggestion as it is simplistic but running a good dose of Sea Foam in the gas tank will clean up your injectors and may help.
Your oil is supposed to be checked a few minutes after warming up the bike and shutting down. There is a lot of airspace in the oil tank for foam to settle down so you can cheat some with quality oil and over fill it. Stuff like last valve check and spark plug change is good to know. And keep in mind, this bike is not that easy to work on unless you have some ability and a fair selection of tools.
 

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The k12/13 has a pair of balancing shafts which are gear driven off of the crankshaft. These are easily adjusted as per the diagram attached. There may be a simpler solution to your vibration issue to try first
 

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Well, welcome. Sorry for the troubles. ......Your oil is supposed to be checked a few minutes after warming up the bike and shutting down........ .
Beech is right You should fill the bike with the required amount of oil and then run it for 20 sec, switch it off and check the oil tube. Bear in mind that there are two different size oil reservoirs. One is 3.5 litres and the other 4litres. The 4litre tank has that size specified on the top of it while the 3 litre has nothing
 

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Check you oil by the book. You may be having too much oil in the crank case, once you start it pumps back to the tank.
 

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Hi Gizu,

The oil level needs to be checked when the engine oil is at operating temperature. I had the same thing, my dealer overfilled my bike with extra litre of oil. I ran the bike until the cooling fan has kicked in, stopped bike and syringed all the excess oil until it showed the 'Max'. Since then the oil level never went over the Max level.

According to the user manaul (page 99):

"Oil can collect in the sump if the motorcycle is out of use for an extended period of time; this oil has to be pumped into the oil tank before the level is read. The engine oil must be at operating temperature to do this. Checking the oil level with the engine cold or after no more than a short ride will lead to misinterpretation; this in turn, means that the engine will be operated with the incorrect quantity of oil. In order to ensure that the engine oil level is read correctly, check the oil level only after a lengthy trip"

I hope this helps with the oil level.

Kind Regards,

Steven
 

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So a couple of thoughts here. First of all, are you sure the vibrations are coming from the engine?? I would experiment with different RPMs in different gears to try and determine if the vibrations are related to engine RPM or speed of the bike.

Thinking of the bike itself, I would check your tires first. Set proper pressures in the tires (38 front, 42 rear I think) and check for irregular wear. Also, check the date codes on your tires. Many bike that aren't ridden much have tires that are many years old. 3-4 years old are OK, but anything beyond that and you should replace them, especially if you're riding in colder / wetter climates. The tires get harder over time and will not have the stickiness you need to stay up right in wet or colder conditions. It's also possible the vibrations are coming from the drive shaft / final drive. The drive shaft needs to be greased in order for it to operate smoothly and it's likely this has never been done on your bike. If the drive line can't move freely this will result in vibrations that are not only unpleasant but could cause premature wear to your drive train.

In terms of engine vibrations, you should consider what service the bike has had. Again, bikes that aren't ridden often also tend to not get much in terms of service. Low oil could be a function of simply not having had an oil change in quite some time. With only 2500 miles, it's possible the oil has NEVER been changed on your bike, so recommend you change the oil immediately.

Most engine vibrations result from uneven fuel/air across all cylinders. Don't even think about potential issues with the throttle bodies or valves, they almost never get out of sync as many on this forum will attest to. However, with only 2500 miles it's possible the injectors are gummed up from bad fuel or just sitting for a long time. The fuel pump and injectors don't like sitting for long periods of time and old fuel can start to congeal, partially clogging the injectors. This clogging will interrupt the fine mist spray from the injectors and cause poor engine performance. Get yourself some fuel system cleaner (Liqui Moly makes a nice one) and run it through a few tanks of fuel. You may need to pull the injectors and have them cleaned and flow benched, which takes some work but doesn't typically cost a lot. Lastly, once all your other service is completed, I'd recommend taking the bike to the dealer and having them reset the ignition advance / burn values stored in the computer. This will cause the ECM to re-learn the ignition / burn values all over again. When I did this to my K1200S it was transformative to engine performance and smoothness. My dealer charged me $67 to do this and reset my service reminder as well.

So my suggestion would be to do the following service:
- Check tire date codes and consider replacing them
- Oil change
- Final drive service including greasing the driveshaft
- Air filter replacement
- Fuel system cleaner / fuel injector cleaning & flow testing
- Have dealer reset your burn / ignition timing values / and service reminder

These bikes are pretty bullet proof but they do require service. If you're handy with a wrench, you can perform all these services quite easily using info from these forums. If you need help, PM me directly and I can walk you through it. If you can tackle this work yourself, you're probably only looking at $500 - $700 at most. If you need to take it to BMW, it will run you 2X-3X more. If you're not the mechanic sort, find a good independent shop. They'll still cost you more but often do a better job than BMW based on my experience. The nice thing about doing this yourself is you get to clean / inspect the bike as you go, giving you a much better understanding of your bike.

The K1200S / K1300S is an excellent bike and will server you well. In your case, you're making up for the lack of maintenance and lack of use from the previous owner. This will take some work, but in the end will provide you with a great bike you can enjoy for years.

Best of luck!
 

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I just did an oil change, replaced the clutch, and put a mechanical chain tensioner on the bike.

Now I’m getting these vibrations as described at ~5500rpm.

I’ll have to ride a bit to confirm. One interesting note, I put in about 3.75L of oil, and it’s still not reading quite true. When I changed the oil, I put a shot of engline flush from liqui moly in prior to the oil change and ran it for 10 min. It was a true and proper oil change. Still, oil + filter only calls for 3.5L.

[edit]

I’m going to add some more information here b/c I think this can help track down the problem.
I did an oil change. I replaced the clutch with a 2008 model year bike (60k mile clutch) b/c I didn’t like how the Barnett clutch felt. I also replaced the push pin (from the clutch lever) on my 2005 with one from 2008. I had to sand down that push pin so it would fit into the recess. When I drained the oil I used a shooter of liqui-moly motorbike engine flush and drained it HOT. I also installed a mechanical cam chain tensioner, although I think I might go back to the stock hydraulic one.

The vibration that I suspect wasn’t there before is around 6k RPM, not 5.5k RPM. I feel it more from the left side. I don’t want to chase theories, but this is what I’m observing right now. It’s not super bad, definitely livable, but not perfection which is what I prefer. It could also be the clutch plates being different.
 

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The k12/13 has a pair of balancing shafts which are gear driven off of the crankshaft. These are easily adjusted as per the diagram attached. There may be a simpler solution to your vibration issue to try first
This is interesting.... say whaaaa?

Someone did this on the internet:

 
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I have a 1997 K1200RS and a 2015 K1300S. The old 'Brick' RS is indeed as smooth as butter. If that's what you're used to, the 'Slant' K will feel very different, even if it is in perfect mechanical condition. The 'Brick' motor was suspended from the chassis on rubber blocks - a glass of water placed on the tank would barely show a ripple. The 'Slant K' motor's mountings are very different - the whole bike has a much more visceral feel - especially as the revs rise towards and past 5K - so maybe your bike is perfect and you just need to get used to the very different dynamic? My (now sold) 2005 K1200S felt pretty much the same, but the K13's engine is so much better, having been fettled by the brilliant engineers down at Ricardo. Good luck.
 

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The bike uses an oil tank for dry sump oiling. So it is not terrible if you are down some. It is not fair to bring in problems of another bike to dilute the OP (original poster) problems. I think it needs to be more specific.
You have an 11 year old bike with only 2500 miles on it. That in itself is something to think about. The bike is not broken in yet. Generally takes 10,000 miles for a BMW to reach its personal normal. The balance shaft settings are a good idea. You need to change all fluids from brake fluid to final drive. Ride the bike for a thousand miles or so, get it back to being some sort of machine rather than a garage queen and see where you are. Keep this thread going with your feed back and more folks will chip in. If you are in over your head and not comfortable working on the bike do use a good factory dealer in your area. The maintenance of a K bike is not cheap. But when running right it is a wonderful bike so don't get down in the dumps. You do have some old parts on the bike even with low miles. you should make sure you have a chain jump guard, a fresh set of orings in the cam chain damper would be good. I would change out the rubber bellows in each brake system reservoir with the brake bleed/flush, lube everything you can think about like control lever pivot pins, transmission linkage ball joints, center stand, side stand all that sort of thing. If you intend to work on the bike yourself but the Factory DVD. For details it is a must. It will not tell you problems but show you how to work on the bike when you are fixing them. The folks here will help you with figuring out the problems.
 
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It’s rather unfortunate that these bikes are so pissy, but I guess that’s the price you pay for being at the cutting edge
 
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I’ve found the Most consistent method of check the oil is to do so as soon as you come back from a ride. Let it idle until the fan turns on then off. The tube is a general indicator. The dipstick is most accurate and the Germans did something brilliant with it. They placed it on the center line of the bike, so it will read the same on the side or center stand.

having said that I noticed you put in a manual adjuster for the timing chain. You need to do the adjustment with the engine hot. a maladjusted tensioner can cause problems with smooth running, wear the chain too quickly if too tight and cause the chain to slap around if too loose. Worst case is it gets loose enough to jump a tooth. Have you checked to see if yours has the jump guard? You can see it through the cover that allows access to the crank bolt to rotate the engine manually for checking valve clearances.
 

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This is an old thread and Gizu has not bothered to reply. Too bad for a poster on the first post. There is information here. But, one needs to play the game. I suggest the thread be deleted. It is of no help to anyone.
 

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No please don’t, I need that link for the balance shafts video since mine is buzzy at 6k, but i’m told they all are.
 

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No please don’t, I need that link for the balance shafts video since mine is buzzy at 6k, but i’m told they all are.
Agreed. Lots of good info here that may be useful to other owners.
 

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I just did an oil change, putting 15w-50 oil in (I live in a hot climate). I also adjusted the balance shafts according to the video. For the 2nd shaft, I couldn’t get that winding/growling as pronounced in the video. Maybe I should try harder.

I haven’t been able to take the bike up to testing speeds yet (This bike is seriously too fast). I will try once I get a chance. Maybe later today.
 

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Quick update, after changing to 15w-50 oil and adjusting the balance shafts (I don’t feel like I adjusted much), the bike is definitely less buzzy.

I’m a bad scientist. Since I did both procedures together, I do not know what made the difference. I will also retry the adjustment on the balance shafts since I don’t think I got it quite right the first time.
 
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