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Hi guys. Want a lowering shock for my 1989 K100RS. Anyone ever heard of/any experience with IKON shock. Anyother words of wisdom for lowering this type of K bike. I have a Seargent seat. About the same height as the stock seat, but lower than any Corbin I have tried.
 

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The Ikon shock is a good piece - derived from the Koni stock line [ Ikon - Koni get it?]

However, check out threads here and elsewhere about the new [ to motorcycles ] RAM shocker - specially developed for Kays, and a 25mm shorter version developed especially as I am a bit short in the leg department! You've also got YSS, Progressive etc. available.

There is a group buy planned for this site in order to bring the carriage costs down - not sure how the dollar / sterling conversion is working for you - but the RAM shocker is good value for money in the USA and here in the UK.

If you are lowering the bike via shorter shocker - don't forget to raise the fork legs to compensate [ around 3/16" ] and reinstate the OEM geometery - if that's what you want of course !
 

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I first shortened my K100LT with progressive and after 8 months went with the RAM group buy, Couldn't be happier with the RAM. The price is very fair also.
Beachcomber: I'm curious how you arrive at 3/16" in front when lowering 25mm in back. Not doubting you, just curious.
 

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BP,

thanx for the kind words - glad you're enjoying the experience.

OK the 3/16" .................

To begin, due to the angle of the installation a 25mm shorter shocker does NOT lower the seat height by 25mm [ Pythagoras and all that jazz ].

We arrived at the 3/16" after a full morning testing on a closed race track - with a qualified Club Racer aboard.

First we took measurements from 10 misc. Kays - 100's and 1100's. No two within the same group had the same base datum ! Sooooo - we took an average of all the data we had and started from there. Remember ALL sorts of influences can determine what geometery you actually have - worn springs [ front or back , tyre size, luggage / payload.

We set up the test bike with newish front and rear springs shox and started from there. We then tested the stock length [ 350mm ] shocker against the RAM, and then with the 325mm RAM installed - we did the same tests again.

The results are posted elsewhere but there was a significant drop in lap times on each occassion with the RAM.

We then left the Track Warrior to set up the bike as he wished - that's where we came up with the 3/16". HOWEVER, as long as you end up with 63 degrees - that's the OEM setting in a perfect World. depending on ALL the variables above, that's what you need to aim for.

I have a special frame that has been modified to give me a much steeper headstock angle and I'll try that out next year - it's NOT going to benefit Touring types, just something I want to try - along with the Eaton Mini Blower !
 

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Wow BC, sure beats my "about 1/2 inch ought to do" approach. But the end result is about the same. :)
Before altering the steering head angle, have you done anything about the rubbery feel to the handlebars? That seems to be the one piece of the puzzle that takes away some of my confidence in the tight stuff.
 

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bpbiker said:
Wow BC, sure beats my "about 1/2 inch ought to do" approach. But the end result is about the same. :)
Before altering the steering head angle, have you done anything about the rubbery feel to the handlebars? That seems to be the one piece of the puzzle that takes away some of my confidence in the tight stuff.
a) Replace the rubber bushings.

b) Use a K75 upper fork tree as K75 handlebars are solidly mounted. Note that you'll probably get more vibration in the handlebars if you go this route.

c) Not sure if it works on a K100 but on a K1100 you can add some washers to the underside of the bushing which really firms up the steering.
 

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Duck has of course given you the correct info .......................................my solution - a little more radical :D

However jesting apart - it does make a significant contribution to the overall feel - especially if the rubber bushes have passed their sell by date - nothing lasts forever.

Two of my projects have Clip-Ons - improvement again - but obviously NOT for everyone.

re: your 1/2" - as stated, due to all the other variables there is NO such thing as a base setting - it's what works for you.

My "special" frame has the head angle reduced by around 4 degrees.

 

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Thanks guy for the suggestions. Looks like new bushings is the place to start.
Looked them up on Max BMW fiche. Lists them as four items. I would have thought just 2??
 
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