K12 synthetic
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Any high-quality synthetic, preferably a motorcycle oil. I've used BMW synth, Mobil One (but have moved away from this, there are questions about the additive packages in the SJ oils not being adequate for MC use), and Honda synthetic. A lot depends upon how frequently you want to change oil and how you use the bike. I tend to put on miles in large chunks, not daily commuting, so will typically run my oil 6k between changes. There have been times out on the road for days at a time, where I've had the oil dropped at 5k or so but not changed the filter until I get home and did the next service at 10k or so. One big advantage to the Honda synth is that it's widely available, there are a lot more Honda dealers around than BMW dealers. Just remember that oil, and *high-quality BMW filters*, are the cheapest part of bike maintenance no matter what they cost. If you want to save money on maintenance oil/filters is not the place to do it IMHO.
Best,
GTRider
Best,
GTRider
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204 Posts
synthetic oil
just my opinion based by 15 years of oil analysis at work in hydraulic motors and machine gearboxes. Synthetic is not vodoo oil it will not keep rings from seating or parts from wearing. It does have different properties relative to the different blends purpose. I put synthetic in first oil change and after 11500 miles have no problems noticed. Can sit on the sidestand for a few hours without the dreaded smoky ignition, haven't tried longer yet. Any how synthetic oil is for the most part synthesized dino oil with different anti wear additives for longer life. There a a few that are a pure synthetic stock non-paraffin based. Not mobile one. Synthetic oil is higher heat handling and has a longer lasting package of anti-wear zinc and phosphorous to name a couple. Changing the oil every 3000 doesn't run the risk of ruining most major oils, every 5000 most synthetics. Proper viscosity for your region is probably more critical due to start up wear. In short use what you like and don't over think it. Believe me if the BMW oil was voodoo oil it would be known through the free world shortly and you couldn't buy it without a bank transfer.
just my opinion based by 15 years of oil analysis at work in hydraulic motors and machine gearboxes. Synthetic is not vodoo oil it will not keep rings from seating or parts from wearing. It does have different properties relative to the different blends purpose. I put synthetic in first oil change and after 11500 miles have no problems noticed. Can sit on the sidestand for a few hours without the dreaded smoky ignition, haven't tried longer yet. Any how synthetic oil is for the most part synthesized dino oil with different anti wear additives for longer life. There a a few that are a pure synthetic stock non-paraffin based. Not mobile one. Synthetic oil is higher heat handling and has a longer lasting package of anti-wear zinc and phosphorous to name a couple. Changing the oil every 3000 doesn't run the risk of ruining most major oils, every 5000 most synthetics. Proper viscosity for your region is probably more critical due to start up wear. In short use what you like and don't over think it. Believe me if the BMW oil was voodoo oil it would be known through the free world shortly and you couldn't buy it without a bank transfer.
Thanks for the info. I am definitely going synthetic, I run it in all my vehicles. My bike has 25K , which viscosity on the upper end 40W or 50 W would you recommend. I live in Colorado so it can get a lot colder than I am willing to ride in.
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204 Posts
Bmw
I think I also read Spectro makes the BMW synthetic, I believe unless you live in a real hot climate the 10w 40 is appropriate for our bikes. There is more exhausting information on the net from several points of view, usually done by a BMW group or afficionado. Wonder why. I am baseing my opinion on Oil analysis we have done at the Castrol labs and Dexter dexcheck oil sampling. But synthetic is the way to go for sure.
I think I also read Spectro makes the BMW synthetic, I believe unless you live in a real hot climate the 10w 40 is appropriate for our bikes. There is more exhausting information on the net from several points of view, usually done by a BMW group or afficionado. Wonder why. I am baseing my opinion on Oil analysis we have done at the Castrol labs and Dexter dexcheck oil sampling. But synthetic is the way to go for sure.
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93 Posts
Mark,
On the latest 15W-50 Super Synthetic BMW oil I picked up, it says right on the bottle, "formulated for BMW by Spectro".
Note: This synthetic is a different part number than previous BMW synthetic. It came out as the approved synthetic for the K1200S with the wet clutch. It says on the bottle, "good for any BMW motorcycle built after 1970".
Blackstone-labs.com echoes what dkev is saying as well. They note no differences in metal wear in samples sent to them, dino or synethetic. Like was mentioned, there are more additives typically. But there analysis results beg a question...."If there are no wear differences than why are more additives better?" I agree with dkev's inference that an advantage of synthetics is the longer interval possibilities.
In general aviation, the synthetics were typically tested better for engines that sat around more. After you shut down your engine a synthetic will tend to cling longer, thereby warding off corrosion from moisture that is a by product of combustion.
I've been posting my oil analysis results for my S, and it will be interesting to see if and how the results change going back and forth with dino/synthetic as I plan on doing when the seasons change. I always use it in the winter with reduced riding time.
Peace and cheers.
On the latest 15W-50 Super Synthetic BMW oil I picked up, it says right on the bottle, "formulated for BMW by Spectro".
Note: This synthetic is a different part number than previous BMW synthetic. It came out as the approved synthetic for the K1200S with the wet clutch. It says on the bottle, "good for any BMW motorcycle built after 1970".
Blackstone-labs.com echoes what dkev is saying as well. They note no differences in metal wear in samples sent to them, dino or synethetic. Like was mentioned, there are more additives typically. But there analysis results beg a question...."If there are no wear differences than why are more additives better?" I agree with dkev's inference that an advantage of synthetics is the longer interval possibilities.
In general aviation, the synthetics were typically tested better for engines that sat around more. After you shut down your engine a synthetic will tend to cling longer, thereby warding off corrosion from moisture that is a by product of combustion.
I've been posting my oil analysis results for my S, and it will be interesting to see if and how the results change going back and forth with dino/synthetic as I plan on doing when the seasons change. I always use it in the winter with reduced riding time.
Peace and cheers.
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156 Posts
I've been using Mobile One 15 - 50 for the last 60,000 miles. Change about every 6,000 along with the tires.
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193 Posts
I, too, have been using Mobil1 15w50, changed every 6,000 miles. Now have over 70,000 miles. No issues, other than a recent "dreaded rear seal leak".
No evidence has been presented that the type of oil used makes any difference ref: the leak.
It's also alleged that our bikes ship with synth, though I can't confirm that.
That said, one of "Benson's Laws" is that "Oil Is Oil". I don't think there's an oil out there (within reason) that would really hurt our bikes. K-Bike engines can run 200,000 miles without major wear. There is no major problem with K-Bikes going down with lubrication-related failures at any mileage regardless of oil used.
BTW, my Honda Element shipped with synth and the first oil change is called for at 10,000 miles. I'm going to stick with the recommendations (I have about 8,000 miles on the original- I assume they know what they're doing.)
No evidence has been presented that the type of oil used makes any difference ref: the leak.
It's also alleged that our bikes ship with synth, though I can't confirm that.
That said, one of "Benson's Laws" is that "Oil Is Oil". I don't think there's an oil out there (within reason) that would really hurt our bikes. K-Bike engines can run 200,000 miles without major wear. There is no major problem with K-Bikes going down with lubrication-related failures at any mileage regardless of oil used.
BTW, my Honda Element shipped with synth and the first oil change is called for at 10,000 miles. I'm going to stick with the recommendations (I have about 8,000 miles on the original- I assume they know what they're doing.)
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