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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 2006 K1200GT with about 50k miles. It has become apparent that the clutch plates need to be replaced at a minimum (difficult shifting, finding neutral, etc). Does anyone have experience with Barnett clutches? BMW K1200 (2006-2010) - Barnett Tool & Engineering

Significantly cheaper than BMW OEM of course. While I have found a few DIY videos using Barnett clutches, I have also found threads indicating that the clutch plate thicknesses are not quite to spec. Plenty of threads online that also indicate that the original BMW clutch design for this bike wasn't up to their German standards.

Thoughts? Recommendations?

Thanks in advance. It will be a good winter project regardless!
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R
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You will have to smooth up the teeth in the clutch basket if you don't buy a new on. Also to use the barnett plate pack you will need to remove the slim spacer and belville washer in the OEM pace along with that smaller steel plate. There are videos as you have found out.
Here is one search on the subject. I suggest you consider sending your complete clutch to the EK for a fellow there to rebuild. It is about 1000$ and superior end product. Mods to the oil flow system are done also.
John Sikes (fourhundred) is the guy. Here is his contact information. You can also do a advanced search on this site and find conversations about him.
 

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I too have a clutch issue (the typical antics) from my 2008 K1200S. I have investigated having John Sikes restore my clutch pack and he quoted me about $550 with new friction plates and shipping back and forth to the UK. I haven't pulled my clutch yet but it's on my list. Just a word of caution, during COVID international shipping rates have skyrocketed in some cases. Check your pricing in advance.
 

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Very good price. I suspect shipping is near $75 each way but well worth it for a premium fix job. He is one of the best. Alternative is OEM prices at about $2500. Don't ask me how I know. :cool:
 

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I'm running a Barnett clutch pack on my 06 K1200s. I installed it back in March and I have about 3k miles on it with no issues. Like what Beech said, you'll want to use the spring washers that were in your original clutch pack. Make sure you install them the same direction as you took them out.

Although having a fresh rebuilt clutch pack for $550 does sound nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I too have a clutch issue (the typical antics) from my 2008 K1200S. I have investigated having John Sikes restore my clutch pack and he quoted me about $550 with new friction plates and shipping back and forth to the UK. I haven't pulled my clutch yet but it's on my list. Just a word of caution, during COVID international shipping rates have skyrocketed in some cases. Check your pricing in advance.
Thanks for this update! I had been told that he was charging about $1k; in which case, I would do my work and roll the dice.
B
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm running a Barnett clutch pack on my 06 K1200s. I installed it back in March and I have about 3k miles on it with no issues. Like what Beech said, you'll want to use the spring washers that were in your original clutch pack. Make sure you install them the same direction as you took them out.

Although having a fresh rebuilt clutch pack for $550 does sound nice.
Will do, but does the Barnett clutch pack require an extra steel plate as well? Or simply reuse the spacers and springs from the original OEM clutch? Did you drill larger holes in the basket? If so, to what diameter? I am sure this will all make more sense once I break it all apart. Good to know that the Barnett pack will work!
B
 

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If one was going to use a Barnett pack I bet you could do the job by leaving the basket in the bike and only removing the clutch pack and coupling (inner part of the basket). A careful dressing of the basket teeth with rags all around, nothing major put it all back together in an hour and much cheaper. If you have the factory aluminum and silicone case cover gasket you could re use that but i think new screws are good insurance. Removing and re installing the main basket is a very fiddly job especially if you adjust the oil pump chain tension.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If one was going to use a Barnett pack I bet you could do the job by leaving the basket in the bike and only removing the clutch pack and coupling (inner part of the basket). A careful dressing of the basket teeth with rags all around, nothing major put it all back together in an hour and much cheaper. If you have the factory aluminum and silicone case cover gasket you could re use that but i think new screws are good insurance. Removing and re installing the main basket is a very fiddly job especially if you adjust the oil pump chain tension.
Yeah, ideally, I wanted to avoid removing the main basket for just that reason. The only reason I would remove the main basket is to drill the oil holes larger or to ship off the whole clutch unit to John Sikes. I just ordered the gasket, tools and new screws for the cover from BMW for the insurance as you say...
 

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Will do, but does the Barnett clutch pack require an extra steel plate as well? Or simply reuse the spacers and springs from the original OEM clutch? Did you drill larger holes in the basket? If so, to what diameter? I am sure this will all make more sense once I break it all apart. Good to know that the Barnett pack will work!
B
I reused the spacer and spring from my OEM Clutch. I thought about it, but I ended up getting a used K1300s complete clutch back with basket. I just used the k1300s clutch basket spindle. So far no issues.

I found it easier to assemble the clutch pack with the basket in the bike. Also good time to check the tension on the oil pump chain.

Check out this thread.
 
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