Depends, I've heard the 5.5 wheel on the Gt interferes
so I would remove it first to get a clear view. You should not have
to remove the caliper.
On the 5 inch rears you can do it in 5 minutes on the side of the road
There are 2 pins that need to be tapped out with a hammer and drift, and
an anti-rattle spring in there that can jump out. Push the pistons back in using
a screwdriver. Uses some anti-squeal glue on the back of the pads.
Monitor your brake fluid level so it doesn't overflow the master cylinder when you push the pistons back in. Keep the old pads as spares to use in case of an emergency.
might not hurt to check your disc for warpage. Mine was warped a bunch and i couldnt feel it while braking, but pads weren't lasting beyond 6000 miles.FWIW the old disc makes a nice clock for the office.
There is no problem with clearing the 5.5" wheel. Do NOT pry between the disc and pads to get the pistons back. If you bend that disc there is only one person to blame. If you can't move the pistons by pushing on the pads only, remove the caliper (again it just clears the wheel) and return the pistons(I use a pair of big snap ring pliers) to their stop. Put the caliper back on the bike before you remove the old pads. This makes for one less thing to juggle or drop.
For another $10.00 you can buy new retaining pins an clip. This is supposedly one reason for brake squeal.
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