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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Corkboy : thanks mate ! You Just just gave me some simple adjustment things to try !
I will start with putting the old exhaust back on see what the difference is if any …then try messing around with how I have the slip on mounted ! Thanks for that !
I know this thread has gone a million directions from the original topic, tires , now vibrations …is it preferable here on this forum to post a new thread for any new thing you are discussing or is one long thread with multiple topics like this ok ?

a front and rear dvr System I ordered just arrived …
I am part of a few riding groups here in Sydney and just keep seeing all these posts over and over of people being hit while stopped at lights or cars cutting them off then blaming the rider …figured would be good to have proof when one of these idiots hit me lol ..
the dvr System requires me to tie its power into my main ignition so when I turn on the bike it also turns on the dvr system ..
I hate messing with electrics as it can be so easy to make a huge mess lol …just wondering if anyone knows of a junction for the ignition that would be easy to tie into without me having to cut a wire and make a junction ?
I know the ecu monitors everything maybe it’s un-advisable to tie into the bikes electrics with new devices full stop ….thought it best to check with you guys before I do a damned thing …it is possible to power this thing via the USB port maybe thats my best course of action here …

just have to tie this little wire into the main ignition circuit and the other one to a ground on the bike …

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There are after market power distribution devices that will have switched and unswitched terminals. They require connection to the battery and connection to a switched source solely as a sensor, not to carry any load. If you plan to add any more items like auxiliary lights, navigation, cell phone chargers, etc, it might be to your advantage to install a power distribution device. To answer you question, I believe some have used the parking light lead or the power outlet as a sensor connection. Good luck.
 

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when i wired my DVR, it had a constant live/earth, and a switched live. i wired the constants directly to the battery, then the switched to the accessory wire which is a plug cable tied under the cross member in front of the battery compartment. It has a delayed power so that it stays on for a minute after the bike is turned off. I have the DVR, and led fork lights connected to it. All the details are here, if you search for gps/accessory socket. Kinda cool having "follow me home" lights"

Or if you want a more stable/neater/sexier solution, as WPV said, there is an fuze box which has both constant live and switched live outlets. It is nice, and a good investment if you are going to wire a few accessories.

me, I just connected to the existing switched live and heat shrinked it (cheap bastard :) )
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Wpv : corkboy many thanks for the inputs and help !
I think I’m going to get the accessory as there are a few things I want to add yet, would be super handy to have an access point to tie a few different things into without messing with the bikes wiring !
you guys are the best so many thanks for the help!

i will post here how the machined throttle lock works out ..already found a machine shop o do it taking the parts there later this week …I know there is other options like the kakao units etc ..probably work out cheaper but this way I get a throttle lock with the exact weight in total as the bar end weight on the other side as none of the available units seem to have that …even though everyone says there has not been a problem with the weights they have on there I want it to be perfect so why not right ….we will see how it works out..
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Corkboy : is this the accessory wire which is a plug cable tied under the cross member in front of the battery compartment that you were talking about that you wired into ?

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hey anyone know what the exact size is of these two bolts that hold on the side stand and the gear shift lever ? Mine are shot need to get two new ones before they have to be drilled out .the previous owner stripped the heads with careless loosening tightening also they have a bit of rust ....seems to be a theme on the bike someone either being careless or using one size to small of a tool and trashing the bolts …if I knew the exact size I can get 2 new ones without having to go through a bmw dealer … I’m wondering stock is there usually lock washers on there ? As mine keep coming loose probably the best solution

‘ before anyone mentions it ’you can see from the pic the bike was dropped lightly in the past by someone …probably why they sold they got scared of it hahah ..tye end of the gear shift lever is worn down ..along with the rider and pillion foot rests in the same mannner…


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That could well be it (possibly slightly different location dependent on model) . You can get a corresponding male connector to hook up to your accessory block. Part numbers etc. are in the various threads.
Have a read of the various threads. The wiring is ground, live, and a non-used speed pulse.

Also, regarding the bolts for the side stand. Don't make the mistake (as it looks like the previous owner did) of trying to undo them from the bolt end. Use the torx to hold the bolt, and use a spanner on the nut to actually loosen them. Otherwise guaranteed stripping of the bolt. I don't have the size, but you could take one out and bring it along to a shop.
 

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Note with Torx bits, you need to use the right size always. Allen keys don't cut it and cheap chinesium torx bits neither. Invest in a decent set, I have a set on a rail 1/2" drive. A couple of bits are getting worn on the tips, may need to replace them soonish
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Corkboy …thanks again for the info and help mate ! So here is something funny, i justw ent and checked there is no nut on the back of those bolts …. the torx bolts screw into the assembly directly ..I’m gonna go double check that again but what I found is the bolts don’t go through and there are no nuts behind them …hmm maybe previous owner changed things and it’s incorrectly installed ? That’s why it keeps coming loose….
As for the accesory plug awesome going to go and find the thread with where to get it and get one :)thanks again mate!

erick1300gte : I hear you my friend thanks for the heads up on the torx head screws / bolts ! One of the first things I did when I got this bike luckily is go out and get a set of torx wrench’s through the entire range of sizes and a set of torx driver heads the same …I keep it in the pannier and it almost seems like I could dis assemble the entire bike with that set alone lol ..everything seems to be torx which is awesome !
I have a feeling thats what one of the previous owners was doing ..exactly what you said not to do ..using bloody Allen keys or the wrong size wrench’s as any of the common maintenance areas ..like oil change etc all the bolt heads are messed up from someone doing the wrong thing ..it also makes the bolts rust once they are damaged like that ! …I go out at night every 2 days and use a tooth brush and wd 40 and hit anything that has started corroding even bolt way in the engine under stuff… or anything that May corrode and coat them well..it has stopped the rust in its tracks and even reversed it in many spots….I live near the ocean and the bike is outside under a cover …without doing this it would be a rust bucket in no time !

given this fact that I have multiple stripped torx heads and screws with some rust maybe my best bet is to go to a dealer and see if I can get a brand new set of bolts for the entire bike something like that …I’m sure a dealer could arrange something like that ..addded bonus our local dealer has so many bmws in te store you can spend an hour looking around and drooling over all of those awesome machines!
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Ok so after some research that connector thing in front of the battery is so the bike is ready to add the bmw gps system …so I looked on eBay and for 15 bucks found this connector that plugs in there and gives you a positive and negative wire out …this should work great to plug in my dvr …I have also ordered that fuse block that corkboy posted …in case I get more accessories can then just wire it to this gps plug connector.

should work right ?

 

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Sorry, my bad. The K1200GT has a bolted on plate that carries the side stand and gear lever. On yours it's bolted onto the frame. Hence why I have nuts and bolts and you dont.

And the link the connector is the wrong one. You want this one

 

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For any that haven't been around a while, MaxBMW.com has a parts list for most if not all BMWs. Go to Parts. Select your model (K1300R). You will see a listing by functional section of the cycle (46 - Frame, fairing, cases). Scroll down to Diagram #46_0877, Side Stand and select. You will be presented a detailed diagram and parts list. The screws are part #8, Fillister Head Screw, M8X30-8.8-MK.

For all of you that have been doing this for a while, I apologize for taking your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Corkboy : thanks so much mate !
Yeah there is a shop here that I have been getting most of my parts from Munich motorcycles ..they are such great people and so helpful …I emailed them asking if they had the part and they corrected me aswell on my selection of connector ‘ adapter haha ..even though it’s more expensive through them I would rather support them and pay more as they are such good people! So ordered it today with a couple of little parts I needed …those rubber boots that sit over the nuts for the ball joints ..I recently lost both of mine somehow ..the bottom and top rubber boot in one go …don’t think it’s a great idea to leave those big nuts unprotected and exposed .. I’m sure bmw covered them for more of a reason than just aesthetics ..

for anyone here in Australia ..these guys are just great …very knowledgeable and helpful ..have many parts for these bikes and can order in what they don’t for you …always seem to go the extra mile , just a great bunch !



Ah I see with the side stand nut thing :)
that’s a relief to know that my bike has not been modified in some weird way haha one of the previous owners seems like they were quite careless ..all the bolt heads wrecked …the grinded Down parts from a small fall …the air filter that was in there was a cheapy after market junky filter ..tye oil filter was the same …so yeah thought maybe they did some weird mods aswell when you mentioned it should have nuts there haha


wpv: so Many thanks again for your very useful reply here ! from now on that’s exactly where I will go to find parts especially obscure ones like bolts ! That’s really really helpful you even just posted the exact bolt size style etc !
thanks a ton wpv ! You guys really know your stuff with these bikes !

so changed my mind on that throttle lock and the machine shop deal! Turns out the damned thing does not work at all …
‘from what I can see from the kakao throttle locks between the throttle lock device and the throttle components there is a spacer that rests against part of the throttle which allows you to tighten the throttle lock on without restricting the movement of the throttle ..
well this crappy cheap one came with a plastic washer which does nothing at all to stop the tightening of the retaining bolt from locking the throttle solidly in place …I found it’s impossible to put this cheapie lock on there and tighten the bolt to hold it on …if you tighten the bolt you can not turn the throttle at all …the only way it works is if you leave the bolt that attaches the device loose, like finger lose where it can spin easily …then when you want to lock the throttle tighten it with your thumb …but driving around with taht thing loose it’s going to end up falling off ! Just a piece of crap obviously very poorly copied from the functional throttle locks and not fitted at all to this bike even though it’s advertised as k1200r cruise Control ! A cheap crap mock up that doesn’t even have functional parts…you get what you pay for right …kakao 168 bucks ..this thing 45 bucks …that’s why…
So yeah warning to anyone reading this thread do not get the cheapy throttle locks …very poorly made …plastic weight on the end which weighs 1/10 th of the bar end weight on the other side ....very poorly considered and basically useless and non functional ! Not worth a dime ! only useful as a $45 paper weight …..
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Hey for those in the know …are these k1200r bikes supposed to have some sort of bracket over the headlamp ?
I was just looking at some pics in the k1200r owners thread and every single one of these bikes have a bracket over the headlamp ….I think mine is missing this bracket or do some models come without it?

Below is my bike and under it an example from that thread ….is there a purpose to this bracket or is it just for looks ? Either way I want one lol one of the previous owners was pretty damned careless with this bike ….. I do everything I can to make it better it seems they didn’t give a damn ….amazing it’s such a beautiful machine why would you just not care !

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In the MaxBMW parts section, that part appears in the K1200R listing under section #63, Lighting. It is part #10 in the diagram, but is not identified in the list of parts indicating to me that it is no longer available from BMW. That part does not appear in the diagram or the list of parts for the K1200R Sport. Looks like you will have to search for a used part. The good news is that it does not appear to be a structural part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Wpv : yes I think it’s just decoration It seems ..I could not find it anywhere , I also looked in the max bmw catalog .. so would make sense what you mentioned that they no longer make them ….hmm maybe one for the k1300r would work if they still make them will look on max bmw under the k1300r….
I did however find it in carbon fibre on an aftermarket site !


i wonder if the air intake fairing bits from the k1300 would fit on the k1200 …anyone ever try that ? they look quite a bit cooler than the ones on the k12 ….would be a good looking mod if they fit!

i Went to get those bolts now that I had the exact size thanks to you wpv ….I was at the hardware store and found the boot I needed but then it dawned on me that those bolts hold a lot of weight being they hold on the side stand and probably are a special very strong steel so a standard bolt would probably be a very bad idea ..I will order them direct from bmw !

like I mentioned earlier no matter how tight I crank them on there they keep coming loose …which in turn effects the gear shift lever which becomes problematic when shifting so I have been tightening them before every ride ….got the right sized lock washers, figured that may solve this …anyone can think of any reason why putting lock washers on these bolts is a bad idea ? The only difference will be the bolt will screw in just a bit shallower but given this is a heavy load bearing part ….does anyone think it’s a bad idea ?
If so not sure how to bloody solve this one!
 

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Blue Loctite or Red if you are bold. Not sure it is labeled that way where you are? Make sure to clean the threads on the bolts and in the holes in the frame. Check to see if the threads in the frame have been "stretched" by having the bolts over-torqued. That would allow the bolts to back out.

The headlight assembly in the K1200R and the K1300R have different part numbers. The cover is listed for the 1300R but not for the 1200R. I would bet that it is not interchangeable. I am not sure how the BMW parts system works, and if they have dealerships with shared inventory listings. You might check to see if your dealer can order the one for a 1200R to see if another dealer might have one in stock. If I were a dealer, this is the kind of part I would want to move along at the first opportunity if it was on my shelf. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Wpv : many thanks mate , followed your advice went and got some blue loctite ..I think the red may be a bit much what happens next oil change we]hen I can’t get the bolts out haha would rather just reapply the blue if it starts to back out again…working a charm so far no loosening whatsoever over multiple rides ! Where before 1-2 rides later it was loose..

gave my local dealer a call as per your recommendation …they actually have a net zero of k1200r parts …they can order some in but don’t have any in stock …it’s a pretty uncommon bike here in Australia it seems ! Kinda like that fact ….
Was thinking of one day upgrading to a k1300r but why when this bike is going so well so far ! I doubt I will ever see the top speed or capabilities of this thing ..well if I went insane maybe haha but yeah why , doubt I will notice much of a performance increase , this k12 still boggles my mind daily haha…my bike has a k1300 clutch in it and all the major problem areas and recalls have been fixed so really not much reason to upgrade unless I was looking for more Hp which I’m no Carlo Rossi and not looking for hahha

wpv do you have a kakao throttle lock ? ….or anyone here have the kakao or other working throttle lock and would happen to have some pictures of the part that attaches to the handlebar ? What they did there to stop the unit from locking the throttle in place when the retaining bolt is tightened.
the people I bought this cheapy version off of are being problematic about returning it even though it doesn’t work, who cares it was cheap right , it’s just the point of it …I love tinkering with stuff and have been thinking of retrofitting this one to work ..
around the head of the plastic weight are these decorative holes that I could drill into and add lead weights to make it match the bar end weight on the other Side ….so that would solve that problem …I just have to figure out what to do to attach this thing in a way where it works and doesn’t lock my throttle in place when the retaining bolt is attached …hence the request for -pictures of how the working units attach …I will make this thing work !
looked online found some pics but not quite sure how it works , how the working units attach to the end to make the thing work…
found a post here on this website where people used rubber bands and / or a large oring to make the throttle a little stiffer where they could let go and the bike held speed for a time anyways …love peoples innovations haha …
also looked into possibly adding an electronic cruise control , saw people talking about a few possibilities that did work and didn’t break the bank… there is one for around 1200 aud total once you also add the necessary servos made for the k1200s ..I bet could be retrofitted by someone handy to work with a k1200r !

 

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Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
Ok scrap my requests for photos of the throttle lock figured it out !
so anyone wanting to get one of these much cheaper throttle locks than the standard and retrofit to make it work…

so the problem was this hole where the handle bar goes in ..it is too deep on the unit so the throttle lock and it’s washer sit very tight against the throttle locking the throttle in place once you tighten the retaining bolt …even though they advertised this as being for the k1200r they are full of it this was designed for another bike ..
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so throw a couple of washers in there to make the hole shallower now when you tighten on the retaining bolt the unit does not rest against the throttle Leaving the necessary space where you can open or close the thumb ring to put tension on the throttle and make it stay in place when you let go… 2 worked perfectly giving plenty of space to open and close the thumb ring…

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final step to make this right …the part of the unit that is supposed to be the weight that matches the bar end weight on the other side is a hunk of plastic which weighs around a fifth of the bar end weight on the other side of the handlebar ..this will surely cause vibrational problems and a messed up resonant frequency …. So on the top of that plastic hunk is a ring of decorational holes ..I will drill every other one out carefully to make a shaft and put lead weights in there until I make the unit the exact weight as the bar end weight on the other side …insert the lead shot weights plug the holes with silicone so I can access again if needed and voila should work out …will post pics when done …

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the kakao and other units are around 160 aud …while this unit was only 45 With shipping etc …so if it works out a much more economical way to get a throttle lock if you don’t mind messing around to make it work!

as far as the electronic cruise control for the k1200s ..I emailed them about the unit going on a k1200 or k1300 r and it seems it has been done and can be done ..

this was the reply I just got from the company that makes these cruise controls for k1200s bikes..

We have not fitted the K1200S kit to a K1200R. Our K1300S kit is very similar to the K1200S, most of the kit is the same, and we do have photos from a customer who fitted the K13S kit to a K13R. It did not require major modifications to make it fit, just some minor changes.

If you would like to look into this, I can send you the original K1200S installation instructions, however be aware that the vacuum actuator and cruise computer used in this kit are no longer available. These have been replaced with our new electric throttle servo and our new, smaller, lighter cruise computer.

I would also send the current K1300S instructions, as this kit uses current parts. This would allow you to see the differences between the K12 and K13 installation and also the installation of our cruise control components.

And I would send the photos from the customer showing the fitment of the K13S kit to the K13R. This may also work on the K12R.

just finished installing the dvr on the bike that I needed the bmw repair plug for …it went really well and worked out / fit perfect …
‘great price on these dvr units only 60 bucks on eBay …then the repair plug was another 22 I think so for 88 bucks have a nice dvr unit that fits perfectly ….on top of the dvr function I find it very useful as a blind spot mirror…I leave the rear view as the active screen and just take a quick glance when checking the mirrors to make sure no one is in my blind spot…much easier than turning my head constantly which hurts my neck. If you put the screen unit right in this spot the handlebar goes right over it when you make a hard turn and it’s not in the way at all and is in easy view to glance down at after checking your mirror ..sure at this size you don’t see detail well but you can see if there is a car right behind you or not… plus think it looks kinda cool on there haha

the power source and all the rest is mounted right near the battery which is very close to the display unit … the hardest part was finding a bolt that was a good ground nearby…used the multimeter to find one that was attached to frame and was a solid ground..
the front camera is mounted under the front of the headlamp …did some tests it doesn’t get hot in that spot …had to route the cable up above the oil cooler which does get hot ..
the rear camera Is mounted on a flat spot on the brake lamp …sounds like a bad spot but these cameras are very small and the wiring followed the path of the brake lamps wires so worked out perfect and are invisible for the most part … the Set mounts very well to the bike without there being visible wires routed all over ..
these little cameras are wide angle ..so now anyone does anything stupid any where near me I will have it all on film :)
the unit turns On and off with the bike ..it also has a switch that I did not install so you can turn it off if need be ..but I doubt I would ever use it …it uses a 64 gb micro SD memory card which automatically loops and starts over recording form the beginning once it’s full …
riding in this city this thing is a really good idea as it seems to be a constant that riders are getting hit etc and the cagers blame the riders because of just being dicks and Anti motorcycle bias !
There is also a motion sensor in the thing where if someone messes with your bike hits it while parked etc it turn on and records them..another thing that happens around here a lot ..people hitting your bike while parked and taking off ..this way you will have their plate and the evidence !
the one mod I had to make was to the clamp that holds the screen on ..fully closed it was not quite tight enough so I put some 3m strips inside and made it nice and tight …easy fix..

Anyways great unit for the price and installs really well and out of the way on this bike..

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if your in Australia and want these parts here is where you can get em


dvr :- SE30 Motorcycle Dash Cam Front + Rear Dual Channel DVR with 2 inch Display AU | eBay

Place to get repair plug :- https://www.munichmotorcycles.com.au/product/repair-plug-3-pin/

hope some of this info is useful to someone some day !
 
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