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K1200GT 2004 need ABS Pump

6K views 16 replies 14 participants last post by  cobbler 
#1 ·
Anyone know of an inexpensive ABS pump for a 2004 K1200GT. Light is on and dealership confirmed I need the ABS pump - however - it would cost more than the bike is worth... Over $3k installed. Part number 34517685901 according to the dealership. Otherwise, it becomes a parts bike itself and I enjoy riding it!
 
#2 ·
I bought a used one for my GS quite a few years ago from Beemer Boneyard and it's still working fine. If they don't have one in stock they will put you on a list and call or email you when they get one. That's what they did for me. Might give them a try. Also, there are other companies that part out motorcycles and sell their parts on eBay. I've also used several of them for used parts.

Ted
 
#3 ·
An 04 with the energy conserving iABS modulator? Energy conserving as it shuts the servo motor once pressure established on the rear circuit? That could be hard to find if such modulator.
 
#4 ·
But what's ailing that modulator? Mine was ailing last year on the road.Flashing sequence and fault read later after roadside fix would have been pronounced dead by all dealers!
 
#5 ·
That’s a good point from Pierre. What is the flashing sequence? There are many simple faults that throw up a flashing light or two. Stealers these days wouldn’t know much about these old bikes it seems and are always too quick to send parts to the trash in favour of a new item - at your expense.
 
#6 ·
There may be some options from this company;
This page is the bypass unites but they list used but good parts in other sections. And will repair your unit.
 
#8 ·
No they can't rebuild.And most probably never will.Bummer I am only a few hundred Ks from Moscow Idaho.I could have brought them an iABS for repairs last year(?)....had to bypass it instead!

04 starting with VIN ZG37634 should have the energy conserving modulator.
 
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#9 ·
Hi. I’m in New Zealand and was quoted over NZ$5000 by bmw to sort out the abs module on my 2006 k1200s. I pulled the unit out myself using the CD repair manual and sent it off to RH electronics in Germany for repair at a cost of NZ$900. It arrived back 6 weeks later and I had bmw reinstall for NZ$400. The whole exercise cost me less than NZ$1800 which I guess equated to about US$1500 at the time. Maybe you could look into this or contact them to discuss. I had to use google translate to German to clearly get an understanding of what was being said as their English was not fabulous and a bit
here is the link.
BMW ABS Control Unit ABS I, ABS III
 
#14 ·
Hi. I’m in New Zealand and was quoted..... on my 2006 k1200s. I pulled the unit out myself ..... sent it off to RH electronics in Germany for repair at a cost of NZ$900. It arrived back 6 weeks later and I had bmw reinstall for NZ$400. The whole exercise cost me less than NZ$1800 ......
BMW ABS Control Unit ABS I, ABS III
Hi Speedy, What freight forwarder did you use and how much did they cost?

Many thanks

Malcolm
QLD, Australia
2003 K1200RS
 
#13 ·
Hi
Was it a difficult job to switch to full Hydrolics?
I have a 2003 and sometimes when I start, the ABS won't start. I flickers the high pace and when I ride it stays like for 2 to 10 minutes and then the blinking lights goes out. Other times, I turn on the key and wait a few seconds, it goes from high speed blinking to slow blinking and I hear the ABS turn on. The blinking light goes off after riding a few feet.
It is random, no matter if I start with the bike on center stand, side stand, hold the brake when turning on ignotion, waiting for a few seconds after turning on ignition? I checked fluid levels too.
When the ABS is not working, I can use the brakes, but then are worse than my 'trouble free!' 1976 Honda 750 F Supersport!
Hence I am interested in what you did to convert and lose the ABS in case I need to. This bike has way too many electronics!
Thanks in advance
Brucifer
 
#11 ·
As other's have mentioned, the error might not mean what you're being told it does. My light came on a few years ago and the dealer told me that I needed to replace the ABS controller. After trying a few things on my own I took it to an independent mechanic who told me that the error code was actually a different code and to try disconnecting my external brake light. After disconnecting that brake light, I haven't seen the ABS warning light appear since.
 
#12 ·
Join the club brother. I know and feel your pain. Isn't a rebuilt one available? Your dealer should have one if so. If they don't I would wonder why. Try the third party parts sellers in the BMW ON magazine. Try Euro Motoelectrics at www.euromotoelectrics.com or Bob's BMW at www.bobsbmw.com. When mine blew, Bob's had one on the shelf. Out the door, ready to roll in a couple hours; less than 1\2 of new. Not sure where you live.
 
#16 ·
Hi Dad-e-OO,

Is your ABS unit completely dead? Or maybe you still hear some motor running?
My iABS failed but I didn't know why (only the rear section was working properly). So I opened the unit and it seemed that some electronics was toasted. After a little research it seems that the MOSFET's are a weak part of the iABS-3. The good part is, it costs about $2 to to replace it yourself. (if you're into electronics.). The partnumber for the MOSFET can be found on the other ones. (ther should be 4 MOSFET's on the mainboard).
I have an RS myself and there, the ABS-unit is vertically mounted and I can therefore remove the electronics without getting in contact with the brake fluid. This saves me the bleeding procedures.
For a GT I believe it is horizontally mounted. I don't know if you are able to remove it.
And, super-important, flush with brake fluid. When flushing, follow the instructions in the BMW Repair Manual. It's a specific order for bleeding. Also, (which is in the manual) DON't use vacuum tooling for the bleeding.

If you want I have some pictures of my ABS unit in dismantled condition.

And, if nothing helps, just bypass the ABS. (As other people said before me). Bypass cable are BMW originals, partnr. 34327661752

Hope this helps a little further in your driving fun.

Kees
 
#17 ·
fwit. I just did this for my fault light issue. Follow your rear brake switch wires up under the seat to the connector, be careful NOT to confuse it with the rear brake sensor wires and switch. Mine was hidden under a steel crossbar of the frame. Disconnect the connector and take the side of the connector with the male prongs and jump them with a small electrical wire like a 12gauge or so, a paper clip would even work but you have to be steady. Turn on the ignition and see if the servo resets. Mine did, so I took off the rear brake switch switch and checked continuity with the micro switch engaged and disengaged and got no difference in my ohm reading. (you'll have to make some small wires to stick into the female hole of the connector) This indicated my switch was bad. replaced the switch and all was good. I don't always trust diagnostic machines. Last week I had my KRS battery tested while it was out. First place I took it too said I had a bad cell in it. I took it to a third parts store and they said it was fine. I then took it to a third place and they too said it was fine.......it's back in my bike.
 
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