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Hi all. First time post after a lot of shadowy reading. New to me k1200gt yesterday threw a cruveball. 6 hour ride with no issues, but about 10 metres from home the abs warning triangle was solid and brake failure fast flashing. Manual says one or both circuits not receiving brake assist which was true, the back brake was cactus, front still fine.
Turned off bike then ignition on without starting and the abs did its little check, all as usual. But about 10 more seconds and the lights start blinking again and the servo motor can be heard making erratic whizzing without brakes applied. Checked the microswitches on the levers and they weren't faulty/stuck open.
Anyway, put the bike away with a trickle charger and in the morning, no issues. Rode around a bit still nothing. Battery test at a shop said all good, but charging was only 13.4V even at high rpm. Should be high 13s correct?.


So! Bad abs unit? Or abs just playing up because of low voltage? If so, hopefully not an alternator change.

Thanks all for reading. Loving the new 1200 but I miss my 1100lt every day.
 

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As of yesterday....I am dealing with the same issue on the road.

Go for a quick ride? Try rear brake only? I can bet the rear is now on residual,that is no servo and barely slows the bike down?Barely....!

My front works....even the ABS function is still active.So? Later today I will probably bypass the rear.That is install a bypass line between the rear MC and caliper line.I have been carrying such for years....time to use it and bring my bike back home with a functioning (but no servo/abs) rear brake.Long way to go.....I'd rather not do it on front brakes only.

Altough I already knew......I did Google yesterday.Same issue on many iABS were never resolved.
 

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As of yesterday....I am dealing with the same issue on the road.

Go for a quick ride? Try rear brake only? I can bet the rear is now on residual,that is no servo and barely slows the bike down?Barely....!

My front works....even the ABS function is still active.So? Later today I will probably bypass the rear.That is install a bypass line between the rear MC and caliper line.I have been carrying such for years....time to use it and bring my bike back home with a functioning (but no servo/abs) rear brake.Long way to go.....I'd rather not do it on front brakes only.

Altough I already knew......I did Google yesterday.Same issue on many iABS were never resolved.
Pierre,
I know your Brake System was well maintained and flushed every year - following maintenance schedule and even more... BUT at 174,000 miles (280,000 KM) you knew your iABS modulator was on borrowed time - it was bound to happen sooner than later given age of your ABS Modulator.

I hope you can make it home with the front servos functioning - although I know you are very resourceful and ready with tools. HOW FAR ARE YOU NOW ?

By the way, the flashing sequence reported by the OP of this thread (Triangle steady + fast flash ABS) generally means:
"the ABS unit did not see the correct output pressure compared to the input pressure on the control circuit. It will disabled the pump assist on one or both of the wheel."
In such case, internally what was found was either:
(1) one of the two pump motor was bad (worn brushes or DOT4 leaked into it caused by a seal)
(2) an internal pressure sensor (transducer) has failed. There are 4 of these (input, output, front , rear).
 

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Hi all. First time post after a lot of shadowy reading. New to me k1200gt yesterday threw a cruveball. 6 hour ride with no issues, but about 10 metres from home the abs warning triangle was solid and brake failure fast flashing. Manual says one or both circuits not receiving brake assist which was true, the back brake was cactus, front still fine.
Turned off bike then ignition on without starting and the abs did its little check, all as usual. But about 10 more seconds and the lights start blinking again and the servo motor can be heard making erratic whizzing without brakes applied. Checked the microswitches on the levers and they weren't faulty/stuck open.
Anyway, put the bike away with a trickle charger and in the morning, no issues. Rode around a bit still nothing. Battery test at a shop said all good, but charging was only 13.4V even at high rpm. Should be high 13s correct?.


So! Bad abs unit? Or abs just playing up because of low voltage? If so, hopefully not an alternator change.

Thanks all for reading. Loving the new 1200 but I miss my 1100lt every day.
A good / strong Battery is critical to all BMW models having iABS modulator (ABS with whizzy servo motors). The Battery is NOT the most common issue, but it becomes difficult to troubleshoot (at a distance) if this part of the system is not perfect. The Modulator pulls a lot of AMPS when both internal motors run (front + rear automatically applied when front lever is pressed), thus at idle when the Alternator cannot furnish its max output, the battery is the buffer / supplier. Of course over 2000 RPM, the Alternator can keep up (840 watts capacity).

Normally, for K1200RS/GT with "brick-engine" the charging voltage read at battery pole should be "roughly" 13.4 to 14 volts at idle - a bit more at 2000 RPM (more like 13.6 min to 14.5 max). Do not forget that a "hobby" Voltmeter can easily have a 4% error so make sure to check with another one to confirm. DID YOU CHECK for any loose or dirty connection at battery POLES ? This can affect reading / supply.

Most problems of these iABS modulator are caused by lack of usage (bike parked for 1 year or more) combined by lack of flushing / replacing the DOT4 as recommended by schedule. Storage temperature / conditions when parked will also add to the equation... I see many K1200RS and K1200GT being sold for very low amount on the market - unfortunatly many have been parked much too often and did not get the brake maintenance they should have (max of 2 years between flush using the complex procedure as per BMW shop manual).

I AM ASSUMING you HAVE ALSO CHECKED fluid level in BOTH SECTIONS of the small reservoir located on right side (just below radiator expansion tank). Note that brake fluid level goes down with brake pads wear.

HOWEVER, given your symptoms above, there is a much higher probability you will get one of these internal fault codes - in such case it is often the end for your ABS modulator:
1) code 17419: Rear ABS motor defective
2) code 17433: Pressure in rear wheel cylinder too low

In your case, to confirm type of fault, I would suggest you find someone with a GS-911 to read which ABS fault codes you have. Your BMW dealer can also read these codes for $$.

If the news are not good (as I suspect), then contact Module-Master in Idaho. Although their web page still says
"This rebuild is currently UNDER DEVELOPMENT..." recently a friend was told they had just started repairing these iABS modulators, BUT apparently they are backlogged for a long time on these repairs.
https://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/shop/motor-sports/abs-modules-motor-sports/abs-fte-abs3/
 

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Thanks Jean....!

Not far down into Maine.Got a nasty cold last week....maybe from exposure to Asbestos dust and had to delay:sad

I am well aware of the causes,no GS911 required I'd bet on the sensor. That yellow GS last year had similar symptoms.Pressure sensor but front on that one so fault disabled the whole system.

I just dug up the bypasses from under the seat.Checked some connectors at the same time but as I tought that wasn't it.Next stop will be some autoparts for a few supplies and might wait until later today ,find a cheap motel and bypass that rear.Estimated bypass/repair time of 1 to 1.5hr.

Front should hold but I'd also be ready to bypass that and the whole system on the road.Quickly and efficiently....!:glasses
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the responses guys.
The voltage reading from the charging was with the shops expensive battery tester. My fluke multimeter actually shows 13.8v at high idle, but that was cold. I'll test again when hot.

I am waiting on getting the codes read to get to the bottom of this. However the bike has been fine today, no codes and brakes working. Fluids all full and the right colour. We'll see what the electronic diagnosis is, hopefully not a rebuild because the postage to USA from Australia is pretty horrendous.
 

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Mine was resetting after a period of rest.Got 50km the first time then lights came back on.4-5 resets and last one held for a few minutes.That was it!

05GS because of the front sensor fault would act dangerously.

Fault codes? May tell you something but I think real time data are more meaningful.Sure were on that GS I castrated out of its iABS.

Food for toughts:

https://forum.hexcode.co.za/forum/index.php/topic,4.0.html
 

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I wonder if the OP had his fault codes read?

After 3 days of riding with the constant flashing lights and because I wasn't ready just yet to pronounce my iABS as dead I turned my mechanical brain toward some illogical potential repair.Illogical but not the first time I successfully defied the BMW logic.....!

Had to look back at some other K I fixed years ago of the same flash sequence.Just remembering? Took a few byways and many twisties to help with the fading memories....!

Had to take the repair in steps.....step1 got me somewhere as in self tests would complete but lights would come back on down the road.Subsequently applied step2 then step3 and now at 2days +1500 kms and IABS is functionning normally.

I can't confirm with the GS911 until I get home,still a few thousand Ks to go but I think there is a factory flaw in the self test sequence on the rear.That flaw may bring about false positive faults and disable the rear servo/abs function.

I won't tell just yet how I regained my rear servo but total time spent wrenching on the road was 15minutes and also very simple.

2500km to go.Colorado....Wyoming....Montana.Looks like once again my now old K will bring me back home.290,000 kms/no flashing lights.:glasses
 

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I wonder if the OP had his fault codes read?

After 3 days of riding with the constant flashing lights and because I wasn't ready just yet to pronounce my iABS as dead I turned my mechanical brain toward some illogical potential repair.Illogical but not the first time I successfully defied the BMW logic.....!

Had to look back at some other K I fixed years ago of the same flash sequence.Just remembering? Took a few byways and many twisties to help with the fading memories....!

Had to take the repair in steps.....step1 got me somewhere as in self tests would complete but lights would come back on down the road.Subsequently applied step2 then step3 and now at 2days +1500 kms and IABS is functionning normally.

I can't confirm with the GS911 until I get home,still a few thousand Ks to go but I think there is a factory flaw in the self test sequence on the rear.That flaw may bring about false positive faults and disable the rear servo/abs function.

I won't tell just yet how I regained my rear servo but total time spent wrenching on the road was 15minutes and also very simple.

2500km to go.Colorado....Wyoming....Montana.Looks like once again my now old K will bring me back home.290,000 kms/no flashing lights.:glasses
Thanks for update about the trip and iABS status. Glad you got a temporary fix to continue back home safely with servos.

Very curious about the HOWTO once you get home - at that point there will be enough mileage done to confirm if your fix is working permanently.
 

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Thanks for update about the trip and iABS status. Glad you got a temporary fix to continue back home safely with servos.

Very curious about the HOWTO once you get home - at that point there will be enough mileage done to confirm if your fix is working permanently.
Add another 500kms from my last post just a few hours ago?Slabbing at 160km/h with utter confidence in my repaired braking system?Rather bad for fuel economy that but I was confident enough to do a couple braking practices/system test?Slam on them at 150...ABS kicks in by the time one feels lile he is about to go over the bars?As it should....!:grin

I know you are curious.....but for now I won't post the method as the troll may once again get it wrong.Remember what I showed you on Farcebook?:devil:

OP is more than welcome to PM me with details and potentially found faults I can probably add that to my on the road findings and suggest some preventive measures?

Do me a favor Jean? Scan and post the relevant pages in the owner's manual?Relevant pages would be iABS fault codes and self test start sequence?Just so the troll gets it right?:angel
 

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...
.....

Do me a favor Jean? Scan and post the relevant pages in the owner's manual? Relevant pages would be iABS fault codes and self test start sequence?Just so the troll gets it right?:angel
Both owner's manuals for my K1200RS came in French so this is not very useful to post a page here. HOWEVER I have the same contents in English from a 2005 K1200LT owner's manual. ONLY DIFFERENCES ares the display method on dash for both warnings: Triangle is the "General Warning" and the other is still called "ABS warning".

See 2 attachments....
 

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Both owner's manuals for my K1200RS came in French so this is not very useful to post a page here. HOWEVER I have the same contents in English from a 2005 K1200LT owner's manual. ONLY DIFFERENCES ares the display method on dash for both warnings: Triangle is the "General Warning" and the other is still called "ABS warning".

See 2 attachments....
Thanks....!I can guess (and remember) what page 87 will refer to.I have read the owner's manual and surely you have.I so remember old posts starting with "my ABS lights are flashing.....!"

Other than that....not much to report.500Kms today and no flashing ABS lights.Pesky dip of RPMs at idle,may be from Colorado gas,I might just Techron the shit out of that gas and check my plug caps,one may have popped out.:glasses
 
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Hi all. First time post after a lot of shadowy reading. New to me k1200gt yesterday threw a cruveball. 6 hour ride with no issues, but about 10 metres from home the abs warning triangle was solid and brake failure fast flashing. Manual says one or both circuits not receiving brake assist which was true, the back brake was cactus, front still fine.
Turned off bike then ignition on without starting and the abs did its little check, all as usual. But about 10 more seconds and the lights start blinking again and the servo motor can be heard making erratic whizzing without brakes applied. Checked the microswitches on the levers and they weren't faulty/stuck open.
Anyway, put the bike away with a trickle charger and in the morning, no issues. Rode around a bit still nothing. Battery test at a shop said all good, but charging was only 13.4V even at high rpm. Should be high 13s correct?.


So! Bad abs unit? Or abs just playing up because of low voltage? If so, hopefully not an alternator change.

Thanks all for reading. Loving the new 1200 but I miss my 1100lt every day.
I had the same drama and went to the dealer and they informed me the ABS unit was faulty and quoted me around AU$3000.00 to replace it..... The bike isn't worth that much to spend nearly its value on it......

I had researched through forums and indeed this is a common issue when the brake fluid is not replaced when its supposed to be. (mine wasn't flushed for over 3 yrs).

Progress to date.... after much reading and trial and error and a lot of brake flushes, my brakes have not shown the error again for the past 2 years. It appears that dirt jams the rear solenoid and just needed to be flushed clean. I think I had done about 4 or 5 cycles of flushing the whole system including the numerous bleed points when ever the fault showed up.

Search on forums on how to bleed the K1200 abs and you will find a procedure to follow.

I'm not saying it will work for all, but my error no longer exists.
 

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I had the same drama and went to the dealer and they informed me the ABS unit was faulty and quoted me around AU$3000.00 to replace it..... The bike isn't worth that much to spend nearly its value on it......

I had researched through forums and indeed this is a common issue when the brake fluid is not replaced when its supposed to be. (mine wasn't flushed for over 3 yrs).

Progress to date.... after much reading and trial and error and a lot of brake flushes, my brakes have not shown the error again for the past 2 years. It appears that dirt jams the rear solenoid and just needed to be flushed clean. I think I had done about 4 or 5 cycles of flushing the whole system including the numerous bleed points when ever the fault showed up.

Search on forums on how to bleed the K1200 abs and you will find a procedure to follow.

I'm not saying it will work for all, but my error no longer exists.
Glad you got this fixed / working.
Besides the lack of flush AND lack of usage of the brakes (when parked for too long) ANOTHER ISSUE with these K1200RS/LT equiped with iABS is deterioration of the factory black rubber Brake Hoses. Over time (10 years on average) they breakdown internally and create a mess of small rubber particles that will jam or damage the ABS modulator.

Some owners got an advance warning because one of the brake hose cracked externally and created fluid leak. In other cases, they will breakdown internally silently and create another set of issues. It is my opinion that no one should ride with the OEM black rubber brake hoses when they are past 10 years. You will save your life OR your ABS modulator (or both) by replacing the whole set of these brake hoses with something better / newer like SPIEGLER.
 

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Glad you got this fixed / working.
Besides the lack of flush AND lack of usage of the brakes (when parked for too long) ANOTHER ISSUE with these K1200RS/LT equiped with iABS is deterioration of the factory black rubber Brake Hoses. Over time (10 years on average) they breakdown internally and create a mess of small rubber particles that will jam or damage the ABS modulator.

Some owners got an advance warning because one of the brake hose cracked externally and created fluid leak. In other cases, they will breakdown internally silently and create another set of issues. It is my opinion that no one should ride with the OEM black rubber brake hoses when they are past 10 years. You will save your life OR your ABS modulator (or both) by replacing the whole set of these brake hoses with something better / newer like SPIEGLER.
That could have been a reason why I found so much fine black residue in my flushes, However last year, I developed a leak on the hose from the brake master cylinder to the chassis and I ended up ordering a whole set of Speiglers to replace the OEM rubber ones.
 

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Line replacement? Or bleeds gone bad?

I had to talk another member into the procedure recently.Took a while but I think he got it the third time around when I CAPITALIZED my PM.:grin

Another favor Jean?Could you post part of the BMW service manual?Under of course "line replacement" but also in the bleed sequence for the iABS?Warning is that anytime a reservoir runs below the Min.line when bleeding one needs to.....????:glasses

As for today's repair report.....500miles(not kms)no
flashing lights.But the last 10 miles were in freezing rain so I gingerly followed a semi down the hill.:smile
 

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Line replacement? Or bleeds gone bad?

I had to talk another member into the procedure recently.Took a while but I think he got it the third time around when I CAPITALIZED my PM.:grin

Another favor Jean?Could you post part of the BMW service manual?Under of course "line replacement" but also in the bleed sequence for the iABS?Warning is that anytime a reservoir runs below the Min.line when bleeding one needs to.....????:glasses

In BMW service manual, in section about bleeding / replacing fluid in the "Wheel circuits" for Front brakes
** Attention:
Fluid must always be visible in the filler bottle ensuring that the brake fluid level does not drop below the level of the wheel circuit reservoir hose while the brake pads are being changed, otherwise air will be drawn into the brake system.

*** Warning:
If the brake-fluid level in the reservoir does fall below hose level, the wheel circuit must be refilled at the brake caliper and bled once again (see 34.17).


At 34.17 referred above, we have a section called "FILLING BRAKE SYSTEM":
The wheel circuit is filled via the brake caliper to ensure that the system is free of air bubbles.
*** Warning:
On filling, make sure no air bubbles enter the brake caliper via the injector and the silicon hose.

Fill injector, BMW No. 34 2 551, and silicon hose with 80 ml (0.1407 Imp. pint/0.0845 US quart) of brake fluid.
Press the plunger of the injector until the silicon hose is free of bubbles.
• Connect bubble-free injector to bleed screw of LEFT front brake caliper.
• Open the bleed screw.
• Inject brake fluid into the LEFT-hand brake caliper.
• Close the bleed screw of the brake caliper.
• Remove injector

Completely fill injector, BMW No. 34 2 551, and silicon hose with brake fluid.
• Connect bubble-free injector to bleed screw of RIGHT brake caliper.
• Open the bleed screw.
• Inject brake fluid into the RIGHT-hand brake caliper until the reservoir (1) is filled up to at least above the level of the hose (MIN).
• If required, close bleed screw and repeat the procedure.
• Top up the reservoir (1) to the MAX mark.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

MY NOTES to add clarifications:
- the whole procedure above is applicable to iABS system only (servos, power assisted models)

- the reservoir being referred to is the 2 sections white plastic brake fluid reservoir located just below radiator expansion tank.

- if you ran this reservoir empty during bleed procedure (front or rear), you will need to use the technique of injecting brake fluid from both calipers (if doing front) or 1 caliper (if doing rear).

- replacing any of the brake hoses has the same "potential" effect as running the reservoir dry AS YOU WILL HAVE INTRODUCED AIR in the system.

- the injector (bmw tool number 34 2 551) is basically a large syringe with bleed hose at end to push fluid (hose at end connects to bleed nipple of calipers).
 

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Thanks Jean!

Replacing brake lines without refilling the circuit with the syringue? In my case the rear never built up pressure.Pump was running but just kept circulating fluid and pedal never stiffened up.Until I proceeded with another control circuits bleed and regained pedal pressure.Much faster using the syringue....!

Running a reservoir below the Min mark when bleeding and continuing with the bleeding process?Against the Warning in the service manual.Warning is also posted in the online iABS bleed instructions but NO explanations as to what the procedure is in that case.Warning is also easy to miss and discount in the online instructions.Not so easy to miss in the service manual.ACHTUNG!:eek:ldster:

Everything may appear normal at first,brakes will operate normally but a little ways down the road lights will start flashing.10km for me then.
Both flashing at 4hz so fast flash and that means low fluid in either reservoir.Top up with Dot4 which should probably come along on the test ride.Might need another top up later? I did back then after another 70-80kms.Fluid levels then remained stable for the season and brakes worked fine.

Still.....faster with the syringue and less fluid wasted to get out of them jams.:smile
 
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Hey Jean.....!

Mission accomplished.7,200kms/11 days and my bike made it home safely.That's 2500km with the flashing lights/no rear brake and then 4700km further with a fully functional iABS now at +292,000kms.:smile

I'll pull the fault codes(if any) in the next day or so then post about that easy fix.:glasses
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry for the late reply, very busy at work lately.
I've been riding the bike fairly often, including some longer trips, and so far it's been fine. The fault has not reappeared. I haven't had a weekday off to get the codes read at a dealer and don't know anyone with a gs911. Might have to join a club.

I will be changing the brake hoses over at some point as I agree they're probably past their use-by date.
 
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