BMW K1200, K1300, and K1600 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
First of all i would like to say i enjoy your site and i love the pics, i have promised myself i will get over there when i have saved enough :) but i will have to possibly have to hire something i dont like for transport, like a Harley :-(

Can any of you guys tell me the correct and "EASY" way to change the brake fluid in my K1200RS, year 2001 please,
i hear it is a pain, but as an ex motor engineer, i would be surprised if we could not do it at home, i wish to avoid the mad charges for any sort of service in England!
Regards keith Inglis, BMW Club, East Anglia Section uk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Brake Bleeding

If you click on the Commnity Archives Fourm, and then on Technical,Repair and Maintenance, and then on Sevices Procedures, here you will find details about bleeding brakes etc.

Neale.
 

·
Looking for better limits...
Joined
·
5,163 Posts

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
I think you probably have non-EVO like my '97 so have a lot less hassle. I bought a hand vacuum brake bleeder a while back which works great as you pull the fluid through at the bleed nipples. I've forgotten the service instruction, but I prefer to keep flushing new fluid through via the front and rear master cylinder reservoirs, not letting them run dry to get air in. You might as well do the clutch as well. Find out where all the bleed nipples are, including on top of the ABS unit. Fluid is cheap so you can afford to push a couple of cans through to purge the old stuff. DOT4 only on our brakes NOT synth.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Throttle Jockey
Joined
·
1,718 Posts
voxmagna said:
I bought a hand vacuum brake bleeder a while back which works great as you pull the fluid through at the bleed nipples.
So did I and it works great for one person operation.
$49.99 boys, give 'er a try.

Sears item #00921021000 Mfr. model #21021


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brake bleeding

Thanks guys, i will get one of the vacume bleeders and give it a try.
Keith Inglis
 

·
Throttle Jockey
Joined
·
1,718 Posts
oslin said:
Thanks guys, i will get one of the vacume bleeders and give it a try.
Keith Inglis
Make sure you keep an eye on, and keep re-filling the fluid reservoir while bleeding. You don't want to suck any air into the lines. I ran three to four reservoirs full through to make sure all the old stuff was replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
If you live in the UK, and you have a 2001 K1200RS and that is your bike in your avatar then my guess is that you DO have the servo assisted brakes and you need to use the guide for the 2002 and later brake bleeding.

Of course an easy way to tell is turn on the ignition and listen for the whine of the servos when you hit the brakes;)
 

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
Just in case you end up with this prob. Heres' a couple of tips:

I seemed to get a small amount of air in the system I couldn't get rid of. Not a lot, but I'd squeeze the front brake once ( a bit spongy), then a second time and it was firm. I knew this wasn't how the brake was when I first got the bike but I couldn't get back to a real hard action on first brake.

I was doing work on the right handle bar assembly (front brake micro switch). I did 2 things: push the pistons back on the fronts to remove the road wheel, and had the handle bar at funny angles with the master cylinder sealed. The fronts are now rock hard on first pull - best they've ever been. Don't know which of the 2 things I did got rid of the air.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
K1200RS Brakes

Yes Gary, there are power brakes, and yes that is my bike, i have the BMW disk so perhaps they will tell where the bleed is for the power unit, i do recall the two systems are separate, so need to be bleed separately as well,
thanks for the tip vox, i am hoping i do not get any air in at all as the brakes are good at the moment
 

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
Synthetic brake fluids must be compatible with all seals and components of the braking system. Unlike engine oils, it is not an 'upgrade' for braking systems where the fluid specified is DOT4, they cannot and must not be mixed either.

Synthetic silicone based brake fluids are more stable and less water absorbing than DOT4 fluid, but unfortunately you mustn't use it unless the braking system is designed for it.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
The only authority on whether silicon based brake fluids are suitable would come from BMW who designed the braking system and I haven't yet found a BMW link. I'm sure you'd need the bike frame numbers and build date. My manual states only DOT 4 fluid to be used and that's what I use although not BMW branded. If I was in foreign parts wondering about aftermarket claims for a brake fluid I'd buy BMW. You're not going to use much and it comes with a warranty to work as designed to save your life!

The composition of seals, fluids and other components in your braking system is designed to save your life, that's one area I'd never argue with unless it was a BMW factory authorised change - which is unlikely since my early bike would pre-date the introduction of later DOT spec fluids for use with compatible brake components.

I didn't put much effort into further research, but you could have a look at this link, remembering I don't argue technical why's or wherefores as far as brakes are concerned.

http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.shtml



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Brake Vendor

Hello,
I ran your question through my local brake vendor. He has been inthe business over 30 years and basically said what the above article did. I asked him about DOT 4 synthetic. He explained that it is not much differnt from non synthetic but has 2 distict small differences. First - with sythetic DOT 4 you will get a slightly higher boiling point but also with Synthetic DOT 4 you loose some moisture absorbtion. Not as much as DOT 5 but definitely some.
He said if you are racing and going to change the fluid a couple of times a year , or live in a dry climate, Synth is the way to go. Here in Indiana where we have tons of moisture the only way to go is regular DOT 4.

I service many bikes and have been doing it for 23 years now. I hate "come backs" - nothing worse than doing the same job over again for free. I tried about every fluid I could get a hold of and have landed on my choice (Castrol GTLMA) It performs well. I don't find the same amount of corrosion on the systems I maintain and it is readily available and resonably priced. (I understand that other fluids may have better specs or improved chemistry but for some reason this fluid works best for me and my customers.) I try new products as they become available but nothing has changed my mind yet.

I'm hoping they put a pressure return line, expansion chamber and universal bleed connector on all brake systems so we can easily close the system and flush the systems when the need arises.
 

·
Addict
Joined
·
3,750 Posts
Hi, when you strip down systems you can see more than the service information gives you or deliberately leaves out!

..........I'm hoping they put a pressure return line, expansion chamber and universal bleed connector on all brake systems so we can easily close the system and flush the systems when the need arises.............. I guess they might keep things simple and closed for safety. Better to design a system and fluid that lasts as long as the shortest life component.

I did swap out my oem rubber hoses for ptfe aftermarkets. Mine were probably about 5 years old. When I scraped the inside of the rubber wall, I was surprised how soft and gooey the surface had become and far as I know, stock fluid had always been used. Whenever I flush lots of fluid through any system or dismantle cylinders, there's always black rubber contamination in the fluid. I don't put this all down to fluid 'attack'. some of it is coming off the piston seal wiping surfaces. If they made the Brembo caliper pistons out of stainless instead of coated aluminium, there'd be far less problems with jammed pistons. With 4 pot calipers, you don't always realise when 1 has stopped working.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluids are glycol based fluids which absorb water. DOT5 is silicone based and not compatible with DOT3 or DOT4 brake systems. The advantage of DOT5 is that it does not absorb moisture.

DOT4 synthetic is not silicone based. You can use it in your BMW EVO brake system without any ill effects. It is supposed to perform better under high heat conditions. I have not read any data on wether or not it will absorb less moisture than regular DOT4 though some manufactures make that claim.

Do not confuse synthetic with silicone based brake fluids, they are not the same. For example: Valvoline synthetic brake fluid meets DOT3 and DOT4 specifications and may be used in either spec system. It is not compatible with DOT5 systems. Ask Valvoline what it's made of..........they won't tell me.
You can read all about it here: http://www.carcarecouncil.org/Brakes/brake_fluid.shtml
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
The only problem that I see with the argument over synthetic or non-synthetic DOT brake fluid is the well known fact that a new BMW ABS3 servo unit is around $1900.00 installed. Is this type of green worth proving BMW wrong in their requirement for ordinary DOT 4 brake fluid?
Bruce C
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
I agree and only use Prestone DOT4, about a dollar a bottle at Wally World.:)
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top