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1998 BMW K1200rs Dolphin Blue.
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. Was on eBay earlier and placed a cheeky bid on a replacement low mileage rear shock with a remote preload adjuster.

Heres the problem. My RS is the early model without the remote adjuster.

Sod’s law, I won the auction at a good price so now i have a new rear shock on its way to me.

I assume the shock will fit my early bike but how best should I mount the remote adjuster on my early bike. Has anyone done this?
 

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Hi all. Was on eBay earlier and placed a cheeky bid on a replacement low mileage rear shock with a remote preload adjuster.

Heres the problem. My RS is the early model without the remote adjuster.

Sod’s law, I won the auction at a good price so now i have a new rear shock on its way to me.

I assume the shock will fit my early bike but how best should I mount the remote adjuster on my early bike. Has anyone done this?
A friend of mine did this after I offered one of my old rear shock (from my 2002) to be rebuild by a local shop offering this service. They could only rebuild the Rear, not the front.

He had a 1998 K1200RS with a bad leaking rear shock - my shock was from the 2nd generation with remote preload. The only piece of the puzzle missing is the welded bracket just behind the handlebar built into the rear sub-frame - this bracket is only present on later models (2001+ for Europe/Canada OR 2002+ for USA). The rest of the rear shock size wise is identical and will fit.

You will need to be good and patient at bending and drilling metal. He took an old bracket that he bent, drilled and grinded until achieving and acceptable result based on measurements done on my 2002 models. Take a look at the first 2 photos to better understand his final result compare to the original 2002 welded bracket from factory (last 2 photos). There is a bit of trial-and-error to clear the lifting handle (do you can pass your hand to lift) AND the rear wheel with acceptable clearance.

Because the bend around the metal tube took some additional space, he had to grind a bit of plastic from the under-side rear fender. This is visible in the 2nd photo.

You will also need something close to a 8 x 20 metric bolt and a nut to hold the preload adjuster to your bracket. The hole of the preload handle is drilled for 8mm, but the type of tread (fine or coarse) is not important as you are furnishing your own bolt + nut pair.

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1998 BMW K1200rs Dolphin Blue.
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi John. Thanks for sending these over. It’s exactly what I was looking for. I reckon I can weld a bit of metal on to the frame to look like the original in your photo.
 

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Hi John. Thanks for sending these over. It’s exactly what I was looking for. I reckon I can weld a bit of metal on to the frame to look like the original in your photo.
If I was you, I WOULD NOT DO ANY electric welding unless I unplug all these items at the minimum:
  • ABS module
  • Motronic ECU (under tank)
  • The battery negative pole (2 large black wires)

The same basic precautions applies to electric welding on any modern car having electronics.
 

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1998 BMW K1200rs Dolphin Blue.
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Fitted the replacement standard rear shock this evening. For now, the preload remote adjuster is cable tied to the left grab rail until I have the time to weld a mount to the frame.

Very happy with the results. The hagon shock that was fitted to my bike must have been faulty as I could not get it set correctly. Either too hard and jarring through the spine or too soft and vague.

For now, the ride has been transformed on my 23 year old K1200rs.
 

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1998 BMW K1200rs Dolphin Blue.
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Discussion Starter #7
Sorted it. i have absolutely no plans to use panniers on my bike so I removed the rails a while back. I realised there was just enough space in the front pannier rail mount to pop a hole through it and mount the remote securely to that bracket.

Sorted. A very happy biker.
 
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