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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dear K-Bike community,
I have come across a very tempting 2004 K1200RS with 4925 original miles. I am very tempted to put down a deposit but would like to ask if there are specific issues a 16 year-old 'garage queen' will have? Brake and coolant lines? rubber bits? iABS issues? I don't have a code reader.
Any suggestions are welcome.
ps. I just read Sailor's comprehensive suggestions on this post:

Seems like I have all my answers but if anyone would like to share their comments, most welcome. cheers< Soma

cheers
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Pretty bike. I still haven't made up my mind. Trying to decide whether I actually want to deal with the seeming inevitability of a clutch replacement.
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R & 2021 Vespa Primavera clown paint job
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Actually the RS is easier to get into than the LT. If you did a pre emptive O-ring change out (use a Viton 19x4 mm) you would not need to buy a clutch plate or housing pieces. Just all the rubber bits in there including the crankcase vent hose etc. You know the rest. Likely the brake fluid has not been changed on a schedule so your ABS is very questionable. Bypass is a good solution. If you address all these issues you will have a great bike. You have to do the work yourself or forget it,dealer labor would be in the thousands. If your reasonably mechanical and have a selection of metric tools there are threads and people here who will help. The up side is these bikes are fun on the highway. For the cost of all this including the bike you could find a good used K13S but then they are not cheap on the maintenance end but sure are fun.
I just noticed the writing on the store behind in one shot. Maybe labor will not be a cost problem as it is here in the states.
 
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Looks new,mine has 20 times that milleage.

However I noticed the rear yellow shock.That is the BMW "sport" shock.Just the regular shock with a stiffer yellow spring that is for riders in the 220lbs range.Not for me that yellow pogo,got rid of that quickly and replaced by Ohlin$ with the correct spring rates for my weight.
 

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The shock is not an issue. The PO (or someone) has installed the lower fairing extensions from the GT(they're not cheap!), the upper pieces and painted them white to match, and finally, the lids on the bags to match. Very, very nice touches. Never seen that rear rack before.
Anywho, it won't excuse all the other comments about the clutch and rubber things, and brake fluid and all that. Just remind the seller of the likelihood that this work may all be ahead of you. Really clean example there. Without knowing the price, can't say much more. Other than tire wear, having 5K on there is really the same as having 30K on the bike. Except of course, I'm sure it's seen a lot fewer bug splats on the windscreen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pretty bike. I still haven't made up my mind. Trying to decide whether I actually want to deal with the seeming inevitability of a clutch replacement.
I see your point about the clutch. Assuming preventative measures like proper warm up and other wear items are monitored, clutch should not have major issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Actually the RS is easier to get into than the LT. If you did a pre emptive O-ring change out (use a Viton 19x4 mm) you would not need to buy a clutch plate or housing pieces. Just all the rubber bits in there including the crankcase vent hose etc. You know the rest. Likely the brake fluid has not been changed on a schedule so your ABS is very questionable. Bypass is a good solution. If you address all these issues you will have a great bike. You have to do the work yourself or forget it,dealer labor would be in the thousands. If your reasonably mechanical and have a selection of metric tools there are threads and people here who will help. The up side is these bikes are fun on the highway. For the cost of all this including the bike you could find a good used K13S but then they are not cheap on the maintenance end but sure are fun.
I just noticed the writing on the store behind in one shot. Maybe labor will not be a cost problem as it is here in the states.
Thanks Beech for your feedback. I am very delighted to find a group of k bike enthusiats on the web. I am based in Taiwan and my language skills are basic at best so a dedicated k bike community is a comfort going into this purchase.
Your suggestions about O-ring and all rubber bits including iabs brake lines have to be inspected and possibly replaced is warranted. I suspect that here in Taiwan many wealthy high end luxury brand collectors buy BMWs as status symbols. These symbols of wealth sit in garages and collect dust. So brake and coolant fluid has probably not been regularly changed. I can do basic motorcycle maintainence but nothing too involved.
A few years back I replaced a critical o-ring and used a Viton ring on my 1999 Z3M coupe as a precaution.
Labor charges are affordable here so I may just have a mechanic do the work.
I am on my way to the shop to negotiate a final price after another test drive.
I will keep you posted.
Thanks everyone for the feedback. Much appreciated.
 

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These are great bikes and this one looks very nice, I had one I bought sight unseen from overseas. Good advice from everyone. It took me a very long time to change the air cleaner element because it is UNDER the fuel cell, but I learned a lot in the process, by doing searches on youTube videos about how to do it. There is a K bike series of videos from an Illinois BMW club that are excellent, and I am not much of a mechanic, but I did all the fluid replacements and wheel removals for tire replacements myself, thanks to their tips and buying a few special tools that make the work much easier. Visit those videos and you will learn how to remove the fairing parts without breaking off the plastic tabs that hold everything together. Doing work yourself will give you so much more confidence. Best wishes in BMW Bikedom!
 

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I purchased a 2002 RS that hadn't been ridden much a few years ago and I can only relate what I've been through. The summer I bought it I needed to replace the quick disconnects because the factory ones failed and I rode down the road spewing vaporized fuel. This was the easy fix. A couple of months later the main seal failed precisely because it hadn't been ridden enough - according to the mechanic the lack of moving lubrication caused it to dry out and fail. Of course as a result of that I needed to replace the clutch. A couple of years later the ABS light started coming on regularly. This, of course, led to the research regarding the dreaded ABS controller issue. I got lucky, it turned out to only be a top case brake light that I'd wired in caused a drop in voltage that the computer was seeing as an error. However, in your case, with it sitting in the garage for most of its life, I can almost guarantee that the brake fluid has not been regularly changed so that is more than likely a ticking time bomb. Of course, due to the ABS issue, my local dealer won't even take mine in trade so I'll either need to ride it until it dies or try to sell it myself. They are beautiful bikes, a blast to ride, and surprisingly comfortable on long rides and I can't say I regret my purchase, but there are things you need to keep in mind.
 

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Sweet ride. The hand guards are from a police bike, not a GT. The little hole in them are for the auxiliary police lights to go through, I have them on my RS, along with the fairing extensions. Did I miss what the selling price is? My rear main seal went out at 70,000 so if the price is right do the math with regards to price paid and how many years it will take you to get to 70,000mi. Personally I love these flat-four engines and every time I think I want to sell mine I just hop on and twist the throttle and come to my senses. Good luck with your decision
 
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Dear K-Bike community,
I have come across a very tempting 2004 K1200RS with 4925 original miles. I am very tempted to put down a deposit but would like to ask if there are specific issues a 16 year-old 'garage queen' will have? Brake and coolant lines? rubber bits? iABS issues? I don't have a code reader.
Any suggestions are welcome.
ps. I just read Sailor's comprehensive suggestions on this post:

Seems like I have all my answers but if anyone would like to share their comments, most welcome. cheers< Soma

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Never pass up an opportunity to add another smile maker to the garage.
 

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I added a 2004 K1200RS to the stable last year. I'm the third owner. Bike had 14,000 miles on it at the time of purchase. Had to do the usual maintenance and upgrades to make it mine. Took the bike to the BMW dealership for an inspection and the 12,000 mike service. I was fortunate that the bike came with service documentation from the previous owners. That said, be prepared to come out of pocket a few $ grand to have confidence that your new toy won't leave you stranded. In addition, the riding position on the K12's is indeed a combination of a sport and touring posture. For some its comfortable others it's not. Ride it before you buy it. Overall the K12's are still great sport tourer's, lots of power and very smooth. Enjoy it, but remember you are purchasing a 17 year old machine.
 

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I agree with Conifer_K. I owned an '04 KRS that I added a few features from the KGT to to make it more comfortable for me. By that I'm talking about the color matching "wings" to both sides of the fairing. I traveled extensively on my KRS and loved it, especially the cruise control feature. I later sold it and bought an '06 K1200S. The bike you're looking at appears to have the color-matching pannier lids from the KGT, no big deal. Frankly, in some ways I wish I'd have kept the KRS and in others....not so much. Regardless, good luck with your choice!

Taken just prior to entering Yellowstone NP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
" A couple of months later the main seal failed precisely because it hadn't been ridden enough - according to the mechanic the lack of moving lubrication caused it to dry out and fail. "
Yes...this and ABS keep me guessing on this one...its bound to be a lot of repairs.
[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sweet ride. The hand guards are from a police bike, not a GT. The little hole in them are for the auxiliary police lights to go through, I have them on my RS, along with the fairing extensions. Did I miss what the selling price is? My rear main seal went out at 70,000 so if the price is right do the math with regards to price paid and how many years it will take you to get to 70,000mi. Personally I love these flat-four engines and every time I think I want to sell mine I just hop on and twist the throttle and come to my senses. Good luck with your decision
The price is currently negotiated down to NT155,000 which is about USD5,500. Taxes in Taiwan are very high for imported cars and bikes. I like your comment about coming to your senses each time your twist the throttle...if you can keep it....enjoy the ride!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here is a short video of the bike being reved up a bit. It was too rainy to test drive so need to go back and drive it...but how does it sound?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here are a bunch of more detailed close up photos a bits that show age...a few scratches but also some surface bubbling on the front fork.
 

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Looks like the bike has, at some point, been parked for a while. But we already knew that. I'd be offering $4600US. There will be some expensive maintenance items in the not so distant future.
A little more scratched up than I'd like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Looks like the bike has, at some point, been parked for a while. But we already knew that. I'd be offering $4600US. There will be some expensive maintenance items in the not so distant future.
A little more scratched up than I'd like.
Agreed. After reading up on low mileage/ neglected bikes, I am searching around for comparative models that have been ridden. Nothing more diappointing that opening up the throttle and then the check book for surprise repairs.
 

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" A couple of months later the main seal failed precisely because it hadn't been ridden enough - according to the mechanic the lack of moving lubrication caused it to dry out and fail. "
Yes...this and ABS keep me guessing on this one...its bound to be a lot of repairs.
[/QUOTE]

I'm new here and couldn't find a way to start a new post. I find myself in a similar position. There is a 2002 K1200RS with just under 20,000 miles I'm interested in. It seems the $5,000 question is how many miles per year is enough to keep the seals moist enough to work? If a 19 year old bike has had 1000 miles per year, am I likely to be taking on a maintenance nightmare if I buy it?
 
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