Not an KS but KR Sport with a mini light bar installed, only needed a small tweak to the OEM brackets to change the angle and use existing mounts points on the fairing. I added a Denali power distribution and relay that is controlled by Autoswitch on the turn-signal cancel.
Still need to give the lights a good try at night riding, but really like the clean look
Like Tmwmad, i recommend wiring direct from battery with independent switch and fuse off battery. Thats how i have done any accessories on my K12s for heated vests etc. Instead of auxiliary lights, I upgraded my lowbeam to an HID. I get a minor canbuss error which I can live with, a yellow exclamation mark on my instrument panel.
I also upgraded both high and low beam lights to led. This brought up the usual canbus errors. I got round this by fitting 50w load resistors. Bike is now error free and visibility at night is amazing.
The dipped/low beam wiring will without issue handle a 50W HID ballast, it is rated to 10A at least. LED bulbs work as well, sensitivity of the bulb monitorsystem is varying, if you try the exact same led bulb from on k12/13 bike to another, one might work without warning while the other bike gives warning.
AUX lights, i presume you want LED ? either connect them direct to the wiring for either high or lowbeam, it will work, or run separate power from battery via a relay and use the low/highto draw the relay only.
This is my setup, the 2 light on the forks are 10w led each, runs from lowbeam power via a pwm dimmer. Dimmed to about 10% brightness. When i turn on the highbeam they light up 100%, then the 15w led in from of the oilcooler also lights up. Inregular high and low beam i use LED bulbs.
Last pic shows the 3 aux lights only on full power in daylight. Add to that 3x30w led in the regular housing when turned on. People see the bike when i flash the highs.....
You should have a power port that is care free from the voltage required to run sense voltage to a PIAA Relay and Switch.
Yes, its time consuming for the routing back up to the front, but you can easily stow the relay by the horn assy, or under tank fairings.
I went with the replaces that I have been running for 2 decades....Piaa 1100X or whatever the equivalent is now.LP270's I would have kept the old 1100X from 2000
but they stopped making the replacement bulbs years ago.
If you look close, they are black, mounted on my forks. Piaa switch is illuminated and weather proof on left hand side frame duolever mount.
CANbus is not anything magical, it 12v+ and earth, there are 2 extra lines between controllers for the actual controller area network, that is it. Not all parts are CANbus, the computer monitors all the parts and lines, but that doesent mean any data goes on all lines. To be a CAN unit it need's a microcontroller inside it that can talk to the other microcontrollers, dash, chassiscomputer, abs and the ECU has it, not other part on the entire bike, well if you have either rdc/tirepressure or dwa/alarm that unit has a microcontroller, but that is it. So max 5 components connected in the network.
Lights and all other parts are controlled through the zfe, chassiscomputer, it handles all the powermonitoring and shuts off power if a line is shorted or draws too many amps. Correct the problem and it turns power back on next time ignition is turned on.
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