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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to upgrade my 2006 1200S clutch to latest K1300S clutch. There is a lot of information on this forum for doing this. So much it's confusing. Can/will someone please list just the parts needed to make the conversion? Please no "while you are at" it stuff please, just the 1300 clutch, oil sprocket, bearings, or actual parts or whatever you really need to make the upgrade.
It would help out a lot.
Thank you.
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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here is a list:
21 21 7 700 514​
LAMELLAR PACKAGE​

21 21 7 700 513​
STOP DISK​

21 21 7 700 501​
COUPLNG CAP​

21 21 7 680 456​
GROOVED BALL BEARING - 40X17X12​

11 14 7 727 974​
GASKET​

11 13 7 676 132​
ISA SCREW - M6X25​
17​
$1.52​

11 14 7 678 478​
ISA SCREW - M6X20​
1​

11 41 8 520 232​
OIL PUMP SPROCKET - Z=26 (from 09/10)​
Below is the older oil pump drive sprocket it only has 25 teeth and creates lower oil pressure, you choose. I would use the 26 tooth.
11 41 7 716 119​
OIL PUMP SPROCKET - Z=25 (to 09/10)​
Note the screw numbers, the rest are one each.
You also need one more part, the clutch throw out rod, about 2.5" long for the K13S bikes, modified and different from the K12. I can't find it in the parts fiche. It is important to use the newer one for oil flow. Total is near $3000.00
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
here is a list:
21 21 7 700 514​
LAMELLAR PACKAGE​

21 21 7 700 513​
STOP DISK​

21 21 7 700 501​
COUPLNG CAP​

21 21 7 680 456​
GROOVED BALL BEARING - 40X17X12​

11 14 7 727 974​
GASKET​

11 13 7 676 132​
ISA SCREW - M6X25​
17​
$1.52​

11 14 7 678 478​
ISA SCREW - M6X20​
1​

11 41 8 520 232​
OIL PUMP SPROCKET - Z=26 (from 09/10)​
Below is the older oil pump drive sprocket it only has 25 teeth and creates lower oil pressure, you choose. I would use the 26 tooth.
11 41 7 716 119​
OIL PUMP SPROCKET - Z=25 (to 09/10)​
Note the screw numbers, the rest are one each.
You also need one more part, the clutch throw out rod, about 2.5" long for the K13S bikes, modified and different from the K12. I can't find it in the parts fiche. It is important to use the newer one for oil flow. Total is near $3000.00
Thank you Beech. I have the latest "throw out rod" (thrust adapter). I did that conversion a long time ago.
I will probably start locating the parts over time and maybe do this next winter. Which parts in your opinion can be used parts?
Thanks again.
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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If you can find a low miles (15K) lamellar pack and top plate okay. But if your going to keep your bike you have to do a balance act money, quality of parts/ware, vs new and just do it. Next time I do it I'll install a new main needle bearing in the disk holder. The stock one is a pressed metal unit that works but you can buy the same bearing with a ground steel inner and out that is superior in all respects. They run about $40. They are listed in other threads. Press the new one out and put in another new but better. If your going with used parts this is almost a must.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This might be a good idea:
This would require the oil sprocket change and the engagement ring on the back and other modifications to fit the K1200S?

I was wondering if I should just replace the bearing in my K1200S clutch basket and new friction/driven plate package with Barnetts. Is there a reason to do the springs and such or is that fix contained in the K1300S clutch package? I'm presently at the 40,000 mile mark, clutch is still good, but when cold I can "feel" it. No rattling noise yet, still engages good.
So I'm thinking out loud here: 1) replace clutch disks 2) replace bearing 3) leave everything else?
 

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There are several layers of replacement, rebuild or repair as you have discovered. If you drill the small oil holes in the main basket, use a barnett pack and the new throw out rod I bet it will work fine. Check on which plates have to be left out when you use the barnett pack. This is 180 from your original question. Probably 2200$ cheaper. That clutch pack I saw on EBay looked like a super deal and would save 2000$. I have a talked with a couple of master bmw techs and the thought is a K bike clutch life is about 30,000 miles in many cases. Mine lasted 112K miles and really could have gone another 30,000 if I just cleaned it and re assembled. It all depends...
As far as springs, that is a totally different subject and most owners don't have the skills to mess with this and do any good. The new ground race bearing will help any clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
There are several layers of replacement, rebuild or repair as you have discovered. If you drill the small oil holes in the main basket, use a barnett pack and the new throw out rod I bet it will work fine. Check on which plates have to be left out when you use the barnett pack. This is 180 from your original question. Probably 2200$ cheaper. That clutch pack I saw on EBay looked like a super deal and would save 2000$. I have a talked with a couple of master bmw techs and the thought is a K bike clutch life is about 30,000 miles in many cases. Mine lasted 112K miles and really could have gone another 30,000 if I just cleaned it and re assembled. It all depends...
As far as springs, that is a totally different subject and most owners don't have the skills to mess with this and do any good. The new ground race bearing will help any clutch.
Thank You
 

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Hi, I'm looking to carry out the same work on my 2005 K1200S. I have a question relating to fitting the oil pump sprocket. Is there an easy way to swap it over? Or is it a case of removing the exhaust headers, sump and oil pump to loosen the chain and remove the sprocket? I manage to source a complete clutch basket including sprocket etc from Poland on eBay for 650 GBP.
 

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The oil pump chain is right behind the clutch. You have to remove the clutch to replace it. This requires removal of the right side case cover and all clutch removal procedures. The chain tension is adjustable without removing the clutch. It does need some slack as it is not a precision chain. If you want to change out the sprocket it slides out after the clutch is out but you have to use a sprocket that matches the series (K12 or K13) clutch basket you are using.
No on installing the K13 basket I found in EBay into a K12, you will also need the K13 oil pump drive sprocket so the locking dogs match the K13 basket.
I could not figure out how to remove the oil pump chain completely from my K13. Drive sprocket no problem. But the chain looked good and I said oh well. I suspect there are detailed instructions in the DVD. I did not look at the time because I had enough of the the project at the moment. I secretly wonder if you have to remove the oil pump or at least loosen it from below??? Next time I'm in there I'll take some time to look harder.
 

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MrB, remember the sprocket is related to the Series bike you have, K12 or K13. Doing some of the work in there when not changing friction plates can be done by not taking the clutch pack apart. The whole thing will slide out as a unit once the main nut is off. The scissor gears need to be dealt with going back in and engagement of the oil pump drive sprocket engagement ears (I bet there is a really long German word for that!). So, read all you can in many posts and take notes. Do not ever use a rattle gun to remove or install the main clutch nut. Find a clutch basket holder and wedge it somehow when tackling the nut.
 

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Visited the local bearing specialist yesterday and hopefully I'll hear something on Monday. In the process of sourcing a TDC locking pin and the clutch assembly tool. But may see if a mate who's a cnc machinist can make the assembly tool. The clutch holding tool I'll probably get off eBay
 

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Interesting discovery on my part. My clutch was making a lot of noise at idle with the bike in neutral and clutch lever out. Opened it up to see what was up. I wanted to check the main nut as someone else had worked on it to install starter over ride gear cluster.
I found the small plate that has six 4mm hex bolts to secure it to the main basket and hold all the plates including the spring plate in place. Well this thing should be centered so the throw out bearing will be centered and the thrust rod which goes into the transmission input shaft will not bind. No wobble needed here. When I went to re install the throw out bearing with the thrust rod installed the bearing would not fit into the hole in the securing plate. It was off center. Well this is not good. There would certainly be a bind if I forced it in. So I loosened all six of the little bolts, centered the hold down plate via installing the throw out bearing with the shaft in it. This did indeed move the plate some. Carefully snugged the little bolts evenly around to 8Nm and double checked the torque as the manual indicates to do, but with the bearing and thrust rod installed before torque up was started. Put it all together and things are better. Not perfect but better. The poor bike is showing signs of old age. Some photos below. And yes I change my oil and filter regularly. Don't know where the mystery sludge is coming from. I use Motul but thinking about Liquid Moly. That Kolsch is from Koln Germany where the wife is today drinking beer and having Schnitzel with out me!
Bicycle part Fashion accessory Auto part Rim Nickel


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake


Drinkware Tableware Beer Barware Beer glass
 

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Interesting discovery on my part. My clutch was making a lot of noise at idle with the bike in neutral and clutch lever out. Opened it up to see what was up. I wanted to check the main nut as someone else had worked on it to install starter over ride gear cluster.
I found the small plate that has six 4mm hex bolts to secure it to the main basket and hold all the plates including the spring plate in place. Well this thing should be centered so the throw out bearing will be centered and the thrust rod which goes into the transmission input shaft will not bind. No wobble needed here. When I went to re install the throw out bearing with the thrust rod installed the bearing would not fit into the hole in the securing plate. It was off center. Well this is not good. There would certainly be a bind if I forced it in. So I loosened all six of the little bolts, centered the hold down plate via installing the throw out bearing with the shaft in it. This did indeed move the plate some. Carefully snugged the little bolts evenly around to 8Nm and double checked the torque as the manual indicates to do, but with the bearing and thrust rod installed before torque up was started. Put it all together and things are better. Not perfect but better. The poor bike is showing signs of old age. Some photos below. And yes I change my oil and filter regularly. Don't know where the mystery sludge is coming from. I use Motul but thinking about Liquid Moly. That Kolsch is from Koln Germany where the wife is today drinking beer and having Schnitzel with out me!


View attachment 30573
Figured this may be a good place to ask the following question of the collective wisdom....

2009 K1300GT with 96600km (60,000miles) on it. Runs very well. Bought it last December from the PO with 95000km who bought it new, so im the second owner. Anyway, when I bought it, he told me that BMW Australia had replaced the clutch under warranty due to excessive shudder. I am assuming this would be the latest generation K1300 clutch.

Issue is I don't know at exactly what mileage. (PO was failry senior and his memory was fuzzy). No matter. Recently I've started to notice vibration when coming off throttle at freeway speeds. On Sunday when out for a ride with the bride, got a shudder at a "spirited" take off from the lights (2 lane merging into a single lane shortly after the lights, so I wanted to be in front). Gearbox shifts fine, no clunk into 1st. Rolling the throttle off I get the vibration, pulling in the clutch at freeway speed there is no vibration, so to me this identifies the clutch as the culprit, more specifically the carrier bearing(s).
Now, I understand the INA NK35/30-TV-XL needle roller bearing is the one. The specs call this a "light duty" bearing, but it's is an X-Life rated bearing:



Is this the correct bearing, as ive seen another with an internal bearing race, and is this relatively easy to change out? Also, is there only one to check, or do I also need to check / replace the throw-out rod bearing and check the centering of the retaining plate bolts that Mr. Beech has described above?

Happy to do all the spannering, need to get the clutch basket tool (UK seems cheapest) a set of 17 off new torx bolts and a gasket for the clutch cover, however main question is the bearings.

Thanks in advance.
 

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BMW uses the bearing with a separate inner race, the bearing you call out is available for use with a bushing instead of the one that has a built in inner race. I would stick with the separate race model.
I ask if anyone has used the one with the included race. I happen to have one of each on the shelf and will measure the bore of a race I have and the bore of the bearing with the race. I'll try to dig them up tomorrow.
 
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