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I have noted that the screws holding the clutch cover on are stated to be “single use only”. Is this a fact or simply a means to get you to buy replacement screws each time?

do they spontaneously combust as you remove them from the engine? Or are they torqued to over their yield point at install?

Can I buy some similar screws but in stainless such as the ones listed below? Theres also black stainless that look quite smart, then also titanium, but that’s going too far imho.

will it cause issues such as galvanic corrosion if I use a stainless fastener in the alloy engine casing?

 

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I have noted that the screws holding the clutch cover on are stated to be “single use only”. Is this a fact or simply a means to get you to buy replacement screws each time?

do they spontaneously combust as you remove them from the engine? Or are they torqued to over their yield point at install?

Can I buy some similar screws but in stainless such as the ones listed below? Theres also black stainless that look quite smart, then also titanium, but that’s going too far imho.

will it cause issues such as galvanic corrosion if I use a stainless fastener in the alloy engine casing?

Deffo await a response from the fokes with real experience wrenching on these bikes
but from what i can read the stock bolts should not be re-used as they stretch on install or something along those lines.
I'd buy a set of stainless (assuming they match) but obviously being very mindfull when installing these. :)
 

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Many people reuse the bolts. The bolts are tightened to a pre determined torque and then turned a further 90 degrees. It’s an un-nerving feeling going that last 90 degrees and I would not like to be doing it with used bolts. The thought of one snapping is horrifying 😁. I would rather buy new ones. They are not expensive
 

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Thanks, that’s what I thought. Interestingly the torque specified is only to clamp the mating faces together with a 0 gap. The 90 turn provides the preload in the bolt to hold it in place, this usually (for most fasteners that use a part turn method) yields them into the plastic deformation zone meaning they can’t be reused. It’s the best way to tighten a bolt and use its available mechanical strength.

Using a stainless bolt should not be an issue, but means I cant apply the same torque and part turn, as this will most likely strip the thread from the hole in the engine block, a whole different world of hurt.

I will keep looking for suitable ones, my local BMW guy sells them for AUD2.00 each, which I reckon is about AUD 1.50 too much.

might try a set of stainless ones and tighten carefully checking for oil leaks…..
 

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two K1300S bikes, S1000R & Vespa 150 Primavera clown paint job
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They are 6mm so as you say a standard torque would be light, about 6 or maybe 8Nm. The aluminum ones are easy on the main case if you slide on that side. A steel one would rip up the main case threads or break a flange. Experience talking here. I have re used them. Also start in the middle, top and bottom working out to the front and back of the cover. The original spec is 3Nm then the 90 degrees. So they are not really too tight. I have reused gaskets even. The original metal with silicon can be easily re used. The paper ones are a toss up as to re use. Note the far forward screw is the short one. Getting an aluminum screw out that has had its head sheered off is not too difficult as they are easy to center drill or even grasp with good pliers when the cover is off. These do not bottom out of course which really helps when in trouble.
 

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Thanks Mr. Beech, that's given me confidence to give it a go and re-use them if I take them out carefully snd in the sequence you suggest.

Just need to order that needle roller bearing now...
 
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