Should have noted in the title - it's a 2009 K1300GT
K1300 GT 2009: Intermittent failure to start (Start-up Check sequence doesn't complete)
Hi
Be grateful for any thoughts.
3 separate occasions in the last 12 months (once in the garage and twice whilst out) I have ridden the bike, turned the ignition off and then the bike won't start. Switch the ignition on and the data on the screen comes on, but there is no sound from fuel pump and the 'CHECK' doesn't appear on the dash. It won't then start. After some time, the fault resolves and it goes though the complete check sequence and starts. The first time it happened (May 2020) it was at home - was considering what to do and a few days later tried it again and it started. The second time (Sept 2020), I phone recovery service - we disconnected battery, cleared ECU and muttered about modern electronics - still the same. I was in process of being recovered home when the breakdown truck broke down! I got on the back and tried the bike again - and it worked - I rode home, leaving the breakdown truck to be recovered! May 2021 (this week) - same again - same process - just before loading the bike onto the breakdown truck - tried ignition again (I'd already tried it numerous times whilst waiting) - it worked - and I rode home.
So, really intermittent fault - but very disruptive and obviously can't have any confidence in the bike getting me where I'm headed
Have just used a Motoscan and the only 2 trouble codes (which haven't shown before) are in the Instrument Cluster - they are:
CAN bus out of order
930F
No CAN message (from DME)
931F
Any ideas what the fault codes mean / what the solution might be?
Thanks - and apologies for the rambling question!
![Font Screenshot Electronic device Electric blue Sky]()
Be grateful for any thoughts.
3 separate occasions in the last 12 months (once in the garage and twice whilst out) I have ridden the bike, turned the ignition off and then the bike won't start. Switch the ignition on and the data on the screen comes on, but there is no sound from fuel pump and the 'CHECK' doesn't appear on the dash. It won't then start. After some time, the fault resolves and it goes though the complete check sequence and starts. The first time it happened (May 2020) it was at home - was considering what to do and a few days later tried it again and it started. The second time (Sept 2020), I phone recovery service - we disconnected battery, cleared ECU and muttered about modern electronics - still the same. I was in process of being recovered home when the breakdown truck broke down! I got on the back and tried the bike again - and it worked - I rode home, leaving the breakdown truck to be recovered! May 2021 (this week) - same again - same process - just before loading the bike onto the breakdown truck - tried ignition again (I'd already tried it numerous times whilst waiting) - it worked - and I rode home.
So, really intermittent fault - but very disruptive and obviously can't have any confidence in the bike getting me where I'm headed
Have just used a Motoscan and the only 2 trouble codes (which haven't shown before) are in the Instrument Cluster - they are:
CAN bus out of order
930F
No CAN message (from DME)
931F
Any ideas what the fault codes mean / what the solution might be?
Thanks - and apologies for the rambling question!
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Ignoring the can-bus error for a minute, the most obvious candidate is the kill switch - there's a known problem with these early K1300s of the kill switch getting hot in direct sunlight so the contacts expand and cut the ignition even in the on position. Coll the switch down and it's fine. Happened to my GT and the RH switchgear was replaced under the insured warranty I got with the bike.Hi
Be grateful for any thoughts.
3 separate occasions in the last 12 months (once in the garage and twice whilst out) I have ridden the bike, turned the ignition off and then the bike won't start. Switch the ignition on and the data on the screen comes on, but there is no sound from fuel pump and the 'CHECK' doesn't appear on the dash. It won't then start. After some time, the fault resolves and it goes though the complete check sequence and starts. The first time it happened (May 2020) it was at home - was considering what to do and a few days later tried it again and it started. The second time (Sept 2020), I phone recovery service - we disconnected battery, cleared ECU and muttered about modern electronics - still the same. I was in process of being recovered home when the breakdown truck broke down! I got on the back and tried the bike again - and it worked - I rode home, leaving the breakdown truck to be recovered! May 2021 (this week) - same again - same process - just before loading the bike onto the breakdown truck - tried ignition again (I'd already tried it numerous times whilst waiting) - it worked - and I rode home.
So, really intermittent fault - but very disruptive and obviously can't have any confidence in the bike getting me where I'm headed
Have just used a Motoscan and the only 2 trouble codes (which haven't shown before) are in the Instrument Cluster - they are:
CAN bus out of order
930F
No CAN message (from DME)
931F
Any ideas what the fault codes mean / what the solution might be?
Thanks - and apologies for the rambling question!
View attachment 28708
I wonder if the can-bus problem is due to dodgy connections somewhere. Its basically a local area network (with 1970's RS232 technology underneath) so I assume connections oxidising could cause it. I don't know physically where the main module is that generates the carrier for it (presume its the ZFE or whatever they call it). I've got the proper BMW manual so can look it up (specifically for you bike) if you haven't got it. Can also share the manual with you (its only a tenner as a CD on eBay too - and huge value as it covers ALL BMW bikes).
Have a GS911. Not sure if any advantage over the motoscan. Happy to share, depending where you are? Also happy to scratch heads together on the phone.
.... around the ignition switch is a "ring antenna" for the immobiliser, it picks up the info from the chip embedded in the ignition key. They fail, thus the key and the bike don't sing in harmony and the authorisation to start doesn't happen. You may have other errors. I don't know the error messages that part failing brings. But the ones you have I can imagine are likely culprits in such a senario ... The failure is quite common on the GS, and its all the same electronics on the K1300 as the air cooled GS1200R
its a dead common part to give you a breakdown on many Honda's
FYI the motoscan app on the last update since Christmas now shows (K44) the bike model at the bottom on a full screen shot had you posted it
its a dead common part to give you a breakdown on many Honda's
FYI the motoscan app on the last update since Christmas now shows (K44) the bike model at the bottom on a full screen shot had you posted it
Hi DuncanIgnoring the can-bus error for a minute, the most obvious candidate is the kill switch - there's a known problem with these early K1300s of the kill switch getting hot in direct sunlight so the contacts expand and cut the ignition even in the on position. Coll the switch down and it's fine. Happened to my GT and the RH switchgear was replaced under the insured warranty I got with the bike.
I wonder if the can-bus problem is due to dodgy connections somewhere. Its basically a local area network (with 1970's RS232 technology underneath) so I assume connections oxidising could cause it. I don't know physically where the main module is that generates the carrier for it (presume its the ZFE or whatever they call it). I've got the proper BMW manual so can look it up (specifically for you bike) if you haven't got it. Can also share the manual with you (its only a tenner as a CD on eBay too - and huge value as it covers ALL BMW bikes).
Have a GS911. Not sure if any advantage over the motoscan. Happy to share, depending where you are? Also happy to scratch heads together on the phone.
I'm near Bridgwater.
Thanks for the offer - also thanks botus for the reply - so potentially - the RHS handlebar switch needs replacing - looking back at service records it has been done once before when under warrantee. Wondered about the ring antennae - but usually get an EWS message on the dash (happened on a GS I had a few years ago) - so had discounted that - also does the ring antennae have this intermittent fault rather than just failing completely?.
Wondering whether you would consider the switch most likely and replace that or do further investigation / take to BMW specialist. Apart from fault codes - given that it is such an intermittent issue at the moment, it may be hard to work out. When it happened last week - it wasn't particularly warm (about 12 degrees) - left it whilst having lunch when the sun was out and that's when it wouldn't start.
I've got a manual on CD - agree - it's really helpful - though my mechanical skills are adequate - not brilliant! Do you know if it's straight forward to replace switch?
Thanks
If the switch has been done already then I assume they used one of the later ones which fixed the design problem in it. Also, I meant to say we haven't exactly had the hot weather that normally causes it.Hi Duncan
I'm near Bridgwater.
Thanks for the offer - also thanks botus for the reply - so potentially - the RHS handlebar switch needs replacing - looking back at service records it has been done once before when under warrantee. Wondered about the ring antennae - but usually get an EWS message on the dash (happened on a GS I had a few years ago) - so had discounted that - also does the ring antennae have this intermittent fault rather than just failing completely?.
Wondering whether you would consider the switch most likely and replace that or do further investigation / take to BMW specialist. Apart from fault codes - given that it is such an intermittent issue at the moment, it may be hard to work out. When it happened last week - it wasn't particularly warm (about 12 degrees) - left it whilst having lunch when the sun was out and that's when it wouldn't start.
I've got a manual on CD - agree - it's really helpful - though my mechanical skills are adequate - not brilliant! Do you know if it's straight forward to replace switch?
Thanks
It's fairly straightforward to replace the switch, but Botus' suggestion does sound like a prime candidate
So - the EWS / ring antenna can be an intermittent fault?
stole from a google search - post seem to make lots of sense to me...
EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-based BMW motorcycles
What does "EWS" stand for? It is German for "Elektronische Wegfahr Sperre"
The most common symptom:
The motorcycle does not start and the “EWS” is intermittently or permanently displayed on the instrument cluster (KOMBI)
The problem
Since the systems inception in 2004, it has been plagued by various problems, the biggest by far being the (un)reliability of the Ring Antenna and Evaluation electronics. This of course is a single point of failure and if it does not work, there is NO chance of authenticating the Key and no chance in hell that your engine will start and run.
The Fault Code diagnosis
According to several dealerships and dealer techs we spoke to, a faulty ring antenna raises a Fault code within the BMS-K(P) only 50% of the time...
General description of the EWS system in CAN-bus based motorcycles
The electronic immobilizer consists of 4 parts:
1RF Transponder in the Key2The Ring antenna3The Evaluation electronics integrated into the Ring antenna module4The Engine Control Unit (BMS-K or BMS-KP)
When the ignition is switched on, the Engine Controller initiates communication with the transponder chip in the key. Data is exchanged and if the challenge is authenticated, the BMS-K(P) will unlock the ignition (spark), fuel injection, fuel pump and starter motor.
The Transponder chip
The "chip" in the Key does not contain a battery. In stead it is powered by the magnetic field of the Ring antenna, which also acts as the RF communication medium. In essance the transponder is a wireless read/write EEPROM with a unique serial#.
The Ring antenna and evaluation electronics
The Ring antenna both powers and communicates with the Transponder chip in the Key. The max communication distance between Key transponder and the Ring antenna is just short of an inch (2cm) and that is the reason why there should NEVER be any other Keys with transponders in close proximity, as they would both be powered by the Ring antenna’s magnetic field and both try to communicate, thus essentially corrupting each others signals.
The Evaluation electronics
This is integrated in the Antenna ring unit and conditions both the RF and data signals to the BMS-K(P) in order to communicate with each other (read: rf <-> digital conversion). The Evaluation electronics is powered by Ignition (Terminal 15), and has the following pin-outs:
pin1 : Terminal 15 (ignition)
pin2 : Terminal 31 (ground)
pin3 : data
pin4 : data
The BMS-K(P) ECU
A certain portion of the BMS-K(P) software is dedicated to the EWS. This block of software integrates the data from the Key (by means of the Evaluations electronics, to the rest of the engine management functions of the ECU. It's primary tasks are:
To retrieve the identification data from the Transponder in the key and validate its authenticity
To release the rest of the engine management functions, if the they key is authenticated
It manages up to a total of 10 keys
It manages the keys that have been blocked (typically if you've lost a key, you can have it blocked)
The EWS procedure at start-up is as follows:
When the ignition is switched on, it powers the Evaluation electronics and in turn the Transponder chip in the Key
The BMS-K(P) authenticates the key data against its corresponding data within the BMS-K(P)
Based on a secret algorithm, a random number is manipulated by both the Transponder as well as the BMS-K(P). The Key's answer is transmitted back to the BMS-K(P), and if they are a match, the rest of the engine management functions are released.
The dreaded "EWS issue" has a silver lining?
What to do when things go wrong
Unlike, loosing your key (quite probable) or an electronic failure within the BMS-K(P) (highly unlikely – cars have been using these modules for years!), the unreliability of the Ring antenna and Evaluation electronics, does have a silver lining… Anyone can replace it! (no special matching by the BMW diagnostic computer required) – unlike the learning of a new key or the replacement of a BMS-K(P) control unit!
That’s why you should have at least ONE spare unit amongst your riding party… AND ALWAYS carry your spare key… The spare key is essential as it is required when your loose (misplace, of course) your current key, however also required for the emergency Ring Antenna replacement procedure (the original ring antenna is difficult to replace, hence you will only be unplugging the wires from the original connector and plugging them into your replacement unit. However your replacement unit will not reach your key in your ignition switch – hence you require two keys… one in the ignition switch (to turn the ignition) and the other taped or cable-tied into the replacement ring antenna, to authenticate and enable your engine controller…)
What you require…
A spare ring antenna (New part#: 61 35 7 705 247 ) released 06 2008
Your spare ignition key!
Some cable ties and/or tape (to fasten the spare key to the replacement ring antenna)
Is the ring antenna always at fault!
NO! in some occasions the symptoms of the motor not starting and “EWS” displayed intermittently or permanently on the instrument cluster are NOT the result of a faulty Ring antenna!
If the Low beam comes on and “EWS” is displayed, when the ignition is switched on the first time after the battery has been removed, the Ring antenna is NOT faulty!
This happens when the BMS-K(P) boots up incorrectly… A good booted BMS-K(P) always shows the gear indicator in the instrument panel, provided the gear selector potentiometer is NOT faulty (GS-911 will tell you this).
Once the ignition is switched on a second time, the EWS should function normally!
What to check before replacing the Ring antenna?
Cycle the ignition again, and if the problem persists, then
Check the wiring and wiring connector to the Ring antenna for:
Any damage (possibly caused by chaffing etc. or rodent damage)
Over tightened cable ties that might have cut into the wiring or are preventing good contact at the connector (due to lack of slack in the wiring)
Poor connection at the connector to the ring antenna
Read the fault codes with GS-911. The ring antenna might not be the problem that is preventing your motor from starting!
EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-based BMW motorcycles
What does "EWS" stand for? It is German for "Elektronische Wegfahr Sperre"
The most common symptom:
The motorcycle does not start and the “EWS” is intermittently or permanently displayed on the instrument cluster (KOMBI)
The problem
Since the systems inception in 2004, it has been plagued by various problems, the biggest by far being the (un)reliability of the Ring Antenna and Evaluation electronics. This of course is a single point of failure and if it does not work, there is NO chance of authenticating the Key and no chance in hell that your engine will start and run.
The Fault Code diagnosis
According to several dealerships and dealer techs we spoke to, a faulty ring antenna raises a Fault code within the BMS-K(P) only 50% of the time...
General description of the EWS system in CAN-bus based motorcycles
The electronic immobilizer consists of 4 parts:
1RF Transponder in the Key2The Ring antenna3The Evaluation electronics integrated into the Ring antenna module4The Engine Control Unit (BMS-K or BMS-KP)
When the ignition is switched on, the Engine Controller initiates communication with the transponder chip in the key. Data is exchanged and if the challenge is authenticated, the BMS-K(P) will unlock the ignition (spark), fuel injection, fuel pump and starter motor.
The Transponder chip
The "chip" in the Key does not contain a battery. In stead it is powered by the magnetic field of the Ring antenna, which also acts as the RF communication medium. In essance the transponder is a wireless read/write EEPROM with a unique serial#.
The Ring antenna and evaluation electronics
The Ring antenna both powers and communicates with the Transponder chip in the Key. The max communication distance between Key transponder and the Ring antenna is just short of an inch (2cm) and that is the reason why there should NEVER be any other Keys with transponders in close proximity, as they would both be powered by the Ring antenna’s magnetic field and both try to communicate, thus essentially corrupting each others signals.
The Evaluation electronics
This is integrated in the Antenna ring unit and conditions both the RF and data signals to the BMS-K(P) in order to communicate with each other (read: rf <-> digital conversion). The Evaluation electronics is powered by Ignition (Terminal 15), and has the following pin-outs:
pin1 : Terminal 15 (ignition)
pin2 : Terminal 31 (ground)
pin3 : data
pin4 : data
The BMS-K(P) ECU
A certain portion of the BMS-K(P) software is dedicated to the EWS. This block of software integrates the data from the Key (by means of the Evaluations electronics, to the rest of the engine management functions of the ECU. It's primary tasks are:
To retrieve the identification data from the Transponder in the key and validate its authenticity
To release the rest of the engine management functions, if the they key is authenticated
It manages up to a total of 10 keys
It manages the keys that have been blocked (typically if you've lost a key, you can have it blocked)
The EWS procedure at start-up is as follows:
When the ignition is switched on, it powers the Evaluation electronics and in turn the Transponder chip in the Key
The BMS-K(P) authenticates the key data against its corresponding data within the BMS-K(P)
Based on a secret algorithm, a random number is manipulated by both the Transponder as well as the BMS-K(P). The Key's answer is transmitted back to the BMS-K(P), and if they are a match, the rest of the engine management functions are released.
The dreaded "EWS issue" has a silver lining?
What to do when things go wrong
Unlike, loosing your key (quite probable) or an electronic failure within the BMS-K(P) (highly unlikely – cars have been using these modules for years!), the unreliability of the Ring antenna and Evaluation electronics, does have a silver lining… Anyone can replace it! (no special matching by the BMW diagnostic computer required) – unlike the learning of a new key or the replacement of a BMS-K(P) control unit!
That’s why you should have at least ONE spare unit amongst your riding party… AND ALWAYS carry your spare key… The spare key is essential as it is required when your loose (misplace, of course) your current key, however also required for the emergency Ring Antenna replacement procedure (the original ring antenna is difficult to replace, hence you will only be unplugging the wires from the original connector and plugging them into your replacement unit. However your replacement unit will not reach your key in your ignition switch – hence you require two keys… one in the ignition switch (to turn the ignition) and the other taped or cable-tied into the replacement ring antenna, to authenticate and enable your engine controller…)
What you require…
A spare ring antenna (New part#: 61 35 7 705 247 ) released 06 2008
Your spare ignition key!
Some cable ties and/or tape (to fasten the spare key to the replacement ring antenna)
Is the ring antenna always at fault!
NO! in some occasions the symptoms of the motor not starting and “EWS” displayed intermittently or permanently on the instrument cluster are NOT the result of a faulty Ring antenna!
If the Low beam comes on and “EWS” is displayed, when the ignition is switched on the first time after the battery has been removed, the Ring antenna is NOT faulty!
This happens when the BMS-K(P) boots up incorrectly… A good booted BMS-K(P) always shows the gear indicator in the instrument panel, provided the gear selector potentiometer is NOT faulty (GS-911 will tell you this).
Once the ignition is switched on a second time, the EWS should function normally!
What to check before replacing the Ring antenna?
Cycle the ignition again, and if the problem persists, then
Check the wiring and wiring connector to the Ring antenna for:
Any damage (possibly caused by chaffing etc. or rodent damage)
Over tightened cable ties that might have cut into the wiring or are preventing good contact at the connector (due to lack of slack in the wiring)
Poor connection at the connector to the ring antenna
Read the fault codes with GS-911. The ring antenna might not be the problem that is preventing your motor from starting!
I'm not expert on ring antennae (Botus has clearly come across this fault, I haven't) but with an RFID chip and couple of connections to go wrong I can't see why it wouldn't give rise to intermittent faults.So - the EWS / ring antenna can be an intermittent fault?
Found this article which suggests they can: BMW EWS – Electronic Immobilizer on CAN-bus BMW motorcycles
Not saying it couldn't be the kill switch but as I say, they sorted that around 2010/11 I think and it only happens in hot weather (was a boiling July day in London when mine did it).
I guess you could also consider the other things that can wrongly immobilise the engine like a faulty side-stand switch - I can't recall the exact symptoms of that one (e.g. whether the fuel pump and check light still work). Also I guess the fuel pump relay itself..
german cars and bikes are all built with deliberate designed in premature failure on most electrical components and or siginicantly costly mechanical components.... often the electronics go intermittent before terminal failure.
the reason most are in the dark is they bribe motoring journalists and the media to lie... the accountants did the maths, and it comes out cheaper than bothering to make them last, as you should sell more bikes - especially when the press cover up the limitations and they waste lots of money that could have gone in to build quality, on marketing initiatives....
if you take a look most say the ring antenna went through several redesigns.... ususally this isn't the good news you'd hope for.... It often means they weren't failing fast enough, and they came up with a "better" design
the reason most are in the dark is they bribe motoring journalists and the media to lie... the accountants did the maths, and it comes out cheaper than bothering to make them last, as you should sell more bikes - especially when the press cover up the limitations and they waste lots of money that could have gone in to build quality, on marketing initiatives....
if you take a look most say the ring antenna went through several redesigns.... ususally this isn't the good news you'd hope for.... It often means they weren't failing fast enough, and they came up with a "better" design
Looking at the cost of a replacement ring antenna, this seems like a good place to start - I think the fuel pump and check cycle works with side stand switch - fuel pump relay a possibility to think about -
thanks for your help
thanks for your help
Well - it's been a while - just waiting to take the bike to BMW specialist next week - there was a long wait - the intermittent fault now seems to be permanent ie now just won't work at all. Have tried different EWS to no effect - have checked plugs / wires to the ignition. There are no fault codes coming up at all. So - turn ignition on - mileage and trip info come up and neutral light comes on - but the 'check' doesn't appear and the ABS light doesn't come on. Tail light comes on but not front side lights. Have checked side stand switch - though like the kill switch these would usually be a problem after the ignition check sequence.
Anyway - unless any other thoughts - will update after getting it to the garage
Anyway - unless any other thoughts - will update after getting it to the garage
Would be curious to know what happened, Mart.
My k1200gt is having the same issue: intermittent display of EWS, while refusing to start. It even killed the ignition while driving!
I've just replaced the ring antenna, but no luck.
I'll diagnose it with GS-911 and report back.
My k1200gt is having the same issue: intermittent display of EWS, while refusing to start. It even killed the ignition while driving!
I've just replaced the ring antenna, but no luck.
I'll diagnose it with GS-911 and report back.
Elwin - be interested to know if you come up with anything - was due to take it to a BMW specialist last week - but ended up isolating - so couldn't go. Now planned for a couple of weeks. Weirdly - just sitting in the garage - at times it will start and at times it won't - bike just sitting there with nothing happening - but just keeps changing - really odd.
My issue does sound slightly different - there is no EWS warning - it is just that at times the BMW logo doesn't come up when switching the ignition on - and then doesn't go through the check sequence
Hi Mart, I have a 2006 K1200gt that is doing the same thing. It started fine last week then wouldn't fire up on Wednesday when it was due to go to MoT! Turns over lovely but wont fire up. I figured it must be fuel or spark and I fitted new coil packs last year so I opted for fuel.Well - it's been a while - just waiting to take the bike to BMW specialist next week - there was a long wait - the intermittent fault now seems to be permanent ie now just won't work at all. Have tried different EWS to no effect - have checked plugs / wires to the ignition. There are no fault codes coming up at all. So - turn ignition on - mileage and trip info come up and neutral light comes on - but the 'check' doesn't appear and the ABS light doesn't come on. Tail light comes on but not front side lights. Have checked side stand switch - though like the kill switch these would usually be a problem after the ignition check sequence.
Anyway - unless any other thoughts - will update after getting it to the garage
With all the other start up/check noises, I wasn't sure if i could hear fuel pump so I decided to investigate and pulled fuel tank out. Fuel pump wasn't running. I "hot wired" pump and it ran fine, I even managed to start the bike like this, so i figured it was the fuel pump controller. If only it was that simple!
I fitted a replacement fuel pump controller and all was fine for the first two turns of the ignition key, the fuel pump primed and all seemed well, on the third attempt, nothing, back to square one.
Then I noticed that if I leave it, and tried again it would work, then not work, fiddle with things or not fiddle with things seemed to make no difference.
It was suggested that it could be engine cut switch, so I have looked at that and it appears to be ok, but I have ordered a replacement just to rule it out totally. I did notice though that with the kill switch in the off position, the "Check" doesn't appear. With the kill switch on, "Check" does appear, I don't know if that would help your diagnosis? If I disconnect the ring antenna, I get "EWS" on the display, so I don't think that's my problem, but I have also ordered one of those to try it. This is starting to get expensive!! I'm not sure what else cuts power to the fuel pump so if anyone else has any info, please post.
Please let us know how you get on with yours Mart when you finally get it to your specialist.
Mine's working again. The strange thing is that when I replaced the ring antenna, the first time it fired up as it should. But the second time... EWS again! I drove off and it stammered and killed the engine... As I was on my way to an appointment I drove there anyway. When I fired it up again after that... No EWS and hasn't failed since 🤞Elwin - be interested to know if you come up with anything - was due to take it to a BMW specialist last week - but ended up isolating - so couldn't go. Now planned for a couple of weeks. Weirdly - just sitting in the garage - at times it will start and at times it won't - bike just sitting there with nothing happening - but just keeps changing - really odd.
Please find below the fault codes.
Really hoping it won't start failing again with my new ring antenna... That would mean something's wrong with the BMS-KP, and I'd have to start replacing more electronics.
Mine has 152k KMs on the clock, and counting.
Hi FazHi Mart, I have a 2006 K1200gt that is doing the same thing. It started fine last week then wouldn't fire up on Wednesday when it was due to go to MoT! Turns over lovely but wont fire up. I figured it must be fuel or spark and I fitted new coil packs last year so I opted for fuel.
With all the other start up/check noises, I wasn't sure if i could hear fuel pump so I decided to investigate and pulled fuel tank out. Fuel pump wasn't running. I "hot wired" pump and it ran fine, I even managed to start the bike like this, so i figured it was the fuel pump controller. If only it was that simple!
I fitted a replacement fuel pump controller and all was fine for the first two turns of the ignition key, the fuel pump primed and all seemed well, on the third attempt, nothing, back to square one.
Then I noticed that if I leave it, and tried again it would work, then not work, fiddle with things or not fiddle with things seemed to make no difference.
It was suggested that it could be engine cut switch, so I have looked at that and it appears to be ok, but I have ordered a replacement just to rule it out totally. I did notice though that with the kill switch in the off position, the "Check" doesn't appear. With the kill switch on, "Check" does appear, I don't know if that would help your diagnosis? If I disconnect the ring antenna, I get "EWS" on the display, so I don't think that's my problem, but I have also ordered one of those to try it. This is starting to get expensive!! I'm not sure what else cuts power to the fuel pump so if anyone else has any info, please post.
Please let us know how you get on with yours Mart when you finally get it to your specialist.
Interesting - I'll go and try the kill switch on and off - though today is one of those days when the bike is starting! I too tried a different ring antennae (about £14 from Motorworks), but that was not an issue. So have you ordered a new starter / kill switch (mine has heated grips and seat on as well) - if so where have you got it from. I can't see how the kill switch (if it's working correctly) should interfere with the start-up check
Well - sounds promising - fingers crossed!Mine's working again. The strange thing is that when I replaced the ring antenna, the first time it fired up as it should. But the second time... EWS again! I drove off and it stammered and killed the engine... As I was on my way to an appointment I drove there anyway. When I fired it up again after that... No EWS and hasn't failed since 🤞
Please find below the fault codes.
Really hoping it won't start failing again with my new ring antenna... That would mean something's wrong with the BMS-KP, and I'd have to start replacing more electronics.
Mine has 152k KMs on the clock, and counting.
View attachment 29140
Thanks. Well... it started telling me EWS againWell - sounds promising - fingers crossed!
Called up the BWM dealer expecting them to tell me to bring it to the shop and replace the full computer system at € 15.000,-.
However, the guy told me my battery is probably bad. It's only 1,5 years old so I thought he'd be wrong, but look...
Just ordered a replacement battery. I'll let you know how it goes.
I do think my problem is different from yours though, Mart. When my bike tells me EWS it won't turn over at all.
Have you tried diagnosing/getting fault codes yet?
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