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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well this started out as a simple job.. 7 t40 bits later 1 broken tap, I set or torx extractors 1 set of stud extractors a set of cobalt drill bits and one peed of owner.


if you do this yourself , a word of warning make sure you have new bolts and thread locker. Make sure you have a good set of bolt extractors, make sure you use a blow lamp and heat the bolts till hot and while removing.. do not bother trying to use torx ectractors if you chew the head they are useless the just cut the torx away. also have a couple of 80/90 mm 4 mm good quality HSS drill bits if you chew a head and need to drill it out. You will need some decent 3/8 drive torx tools or keys 1/2 inch drive are to big for the final drive area where you remove the torx bolts there’s not much room At the bottom of the final drive.

I used a dewalt hot air gun first time and ended up with 3 stripped heads and 7 broken T40 bits. I’m not a mechanic but have worked on my own cars and bike for a good few years. Whoever designed the flange arrangement on these bikes should be shot! If you could have accesses the bolts from the other side it would have been much easier to wok on. Also why the F have they fitted the rear brake caliper underneath the final drive? It gets covered in crap .
total cost

3 hours of my time taking wheel off then back on as each problem arose and needed to order more tools

EBC disc £91

Torx 3/8 set £20

Torx extractor set £18

New bolts £5

Stud extractor set £4

Blow Lamp and gas £13

New EBC pads £22

total £173


Would have cost about £400 at the dealer



Lesson learned - make sure you use a blow lamp while removing each bolt

Make sure you have drill bits and a bolt extractor set

Make sure you have a good supply of t40 bits . These seem to be made to break , I used 7

Make sure it’s not raining as got absolutely soaked today😂
 

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2007 K1200GT
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Sorry to hear about your difficult repair. I don't know the year of your bike so I'm not sure if BMW calls for a thread locker. If they do, there are other tricks that I find work better. First, a commercial grade brake cleaner that is high in chloride will soften even Loctite Red. It is viscous enough so that it will penetrate down the threads. If you have room, tap the head of the bolt to help 'chase' the fluid down into the bolt hole. You can also apply a penetrating oil a few days before the job is to start and put a few miles on the bike. Also, when applying heat, you need to take care and heat only the bolt if you wish to soften the Loctite. If you heat the whole area then you heat up the bolt hole which will constrict the bolt. I use a large soldering iron. I let the iron come to full temperature and then touch the tip to the bolt. The heat transfers to the bolt and very little heat goes to the rest of the material. Once I have done that I try to loosen the bolt. I repeat as necessary. I know this is no consolation now but I hope something here will help you and some other members have a better time on a repair in the future so that you can get back on the road. Cheers.
 

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I've always used PB Blaster and a small hand torch to heat the bolt before trying to loosen it if it still has the factory loctite on it.. After it cools down i use an air impact set on low to loosen them. Never had any problems with torx bolts. A lot of torx bits are not the best quality and will break. I put some EBC rear brake pads on my K1300GT after observing the stock pads were wearing the rotor at 26,000 miles. Being it's a BMW i figured a brake rotor would be horrendously expensive and replaced the pads with the same type of EBC's that i run on my Harleys. They work just as good as stock and don't mar the rotors.
 

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Sorry for your problems. Sounds like real hassle.

I did it here:


Also Calliper re-build and pads here:


and line replacement here:


Loads more repair jobs for this great bike on video - if you want anything just ask.

Ride Safe Guys

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for your problems. Sounds like real hassle.

I did it here:


Also Calliper re-build and pads here:


and line replacement here:


Loads more repair jobs for this great bike on video - if you want anything just ask.

Ride Safe Guys

Dave
Hi I did mine last week and used a EBC MT 688 disc. Took the bike for an mot and service and failed due to rear wheel binding. They have said the caliper bolts are touching the disc? The EBC disc is 6mm the BMW disk are 5mm. What disc has yours got and would the extra 1 mm thicker disc cause the bolts to touch the disc? Thanks for any response and your vids are Great. Adamrover
 
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