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2010 K1300R
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is driving me a little nuts. I've been looking at replacement clutch levers for the K1300R and nothing seems to fit properly. It's always the same thing, there's too much of a curve and the new lever hits the grip and doesn't fully engage the clutch. The OEM clutch is pretty straight and is fine...but a little scratched. Wunderlich sold me one and I complained that it did not work as stated above. They responded, "...
a fitment discrepancy on our website from our vendor who we order that from saying that it does in fact fit and then BMW fitment that states that it does not.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention as we would likely not have caught this as our fitment from our supplier in Germany was trusted and correct until now. "
Wunderlich was very good about their mistake and refunded my money.

Now the exact same thing is happening with Hornig GmbH, and they're telling me that I'm wrong after I tried putting it on my bike. I explained a couple of times but they still believe their part fits.

All the parts are original on the bike and there is no damage or bent pieces. I replaced the clutch fluid with BMW clutch fluid and bled it properly. The OEM clutch works fine.

So, can anyone shed any light on this mystery or suggest a lever that will work properly on the bike?
Thanks ahead of time.
 

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Post links to the exact part you bought. But i bet you got air in the system up at the handle/master. It is a bitch to bleed properly.

Clutch should work long before lever touches handlebar if properly bled. Ask me how i know.....
 

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2016 S1000 XR 2015 K1300 S
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There's a small allen screw where the arrow is pointing. BUT, there is also a lock screw - with lock tight - underneath. Take the lever off, heat the lock screwt with a heat gun and adjust. Be thorough in removing the lock tight, he screws are soft and easily damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks Mattias. I bled the system quite well (I put almost 50ml of fluid through:)) and the OEM clutch works fine, it stops before you get the grip (photo 1), fully engages the clutch.
28715



When I line up the replacement clutch (Tector brake and clutch lever for BMW K1300R) exactly, you can see the difference in shape and why this one hits the grip before being fully engaged. (photo 2)
28716
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
There's a small allen screw where the arrow is pointing. BUT, there is also a lock screw - with lock tight - underneath. Take the lever off, heat the lock screwt with a heat gun and adjust. Be thorough in removing the lock tight, he screws are soft and easily damaged.
Thanks andredl, I'll give that a try.

Tried it, gave it one full rotation (360°) but still didn't help much. I don't want to rotate any more than that.
Thanks for the idea.
 

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2009 BMW K1300GT
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From the picture in your post, looks like they sent you the wrong levers. This is what is shown on their website for a K1300R.
BRAKE CLUTCH LEVERS SET EDITION FOR BMW K 1300 R (08-15) K12S

28717


This is the one you have.
BRAKE CLUTCH LEVERS SET TECTOR FOR BMW K 1300 R (08-15) K12S
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That would explain them not working! If only they believed me when I told them that they sent me the wrong ones. If you don't mind, I'll send them another email quoting your post.
Thank you
 

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You received the adjustable probeake levers (I have the same on my K1300R) ... the all black levers in the picture above are just the old (not adjustable) probrakes.
Hornig don't even offer the old (not adjustable) version.
This is the adjustable version from your pictures:

So I guess you received the correct parts.

"andredl" and "Mattias_r" explain above already that you have to install and bleed them correct and adjust them right.
My dealer ship told me that I can't/shouldn't bleed it on my own ... and they were absolutely right.
When I remeber right you need the BMW tester for it and the program they run to bleed the clutch takes about 40 min and closes and opens the caliper very often to get rid of all the air.
They did a great jop. The levers work very good and have much better haptics compared to the original levers (just my personal opinion).
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Didith. It's perfectly possible that I didn't get all the air out but my OEM clutch works exactly the same (same tension, engagement and release point) as it did pre fluid change. There are several posts in this forum about clutch fluid change and the consensus (in my point of view) is that you don't have to be a BMW technician to do it. Awesome that your new clutch works well and I'm a little envious right now. That being said I can't see myself paying a tech $150 (on top of the clutch price) to put on a clutch lever. Ah well...I can continue with the OEM I guess. Your post is much appreciated.
 

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2009 K1300S, 2017 S1000R & 2021 Vespa Primavera clown paint job
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I'll share two tricks I use when changing clutch fluid. I fill it from the bottom and I tie back the clutch lever to the grip over night. In the morning I work the clutch lever as I tap the side of the fluid reservoir with a screwdriver handle. You can see tiny bubbles (no not the song) emerging from the bottom. When these stop and your lever firms up you have it. One time I had to do this over two nights. The clutch hose is darn small in diameter, tends to trap air.
 

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I'll share two tricks I use when changing clutch fluid. I fill it from the bottom and I tie back the clutch lever to the grip over night. In the morning I work the clutch lever as I tap the side of the fluid reservoir with a screwdriver handle. You can see tiny bubbles (no not the song) emerging from the bottom. When these stop and your lever firms up you have it. One time I had to do this over two nights. The clutch hose is darn small in diameter, tends to trap air.
Good tips. The manual says empty out downwards and fill from the bottom with a syringe but I've always bled them like brakes (PTFE on the nipple to stop air coming in, draw through with a syringe or MityVac and top up at the top) as I didn't want to introduce air to a good system them have to chase it out, but if I ever have to drain it I'll be doing it from the bottom and using your dodges. I tie my brake lever to the twistgrip (with a strong cable tie, set tot he right length) every night and the brakes are rock hard as a result - weird how that works, but it does.

BMW claim the clutch fluid never needs replacing but mine was black as hell when I got the bike at 15,000 and the lever action was spongy. I bled it through 3 times (over a year or so) before the fluid stopped absorbing more dirt from the crevices. Though not a lot is needed I resent paying £15 for 300ccs so will use LHM (power steering fluid) as its the same stuff (as is bicycle disc brake fluid - but that's pricey). I suspect any lightweight mineral oil would do.
 

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I thought of something that might be of minor use somewhere someday... Rather than use a syringe, attach a bit of clear hose maybe 4' long with the bottle of new fluid at top. (Of course the tubing is pre-filled with brake fluid before you attach). Then open the bleeder, keep the bottle higher than the reservoir on the bars, and remove fluid from the reservoir as it fills. Some creative holes in the new fluid container would even let you squeeze it (applying pressure and speeding up the process) at the risk of a fumble making a mess of things. But nothing in life, including life, is without risk.

There is a chance the reservoir will overflow and drip paint remover, er, brake fluid, over everything, but it may be possible to rig an overflow hose (think siphon) that would prevent this occurrence.
 

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I thought of something that might be of minor use somewhere someday... Rather than use a syringe, attach a bit of clear hose maybe 4' long with the bottle of new fluid at top. (Of course the tubing is pre-filled with brake fluid before you attach). Then open the bleeder, keep the bottle higher than the reservoir on the bars, and remove fluid from the reservoir as it fills. Some creative holes in the new fluid container would even let you squeeze it (applying pressure and speeding up the process) at the risk of a fumble making a mess of things. But nothing in life, including life, is without risk.

There is a chance the reservoir will overflow and drip paint remover, er, brake fluid, over everything, but it may be possible to rig an overflow hose (think siphon) that would prevent this occurrence.
Clutch use mineraloil, not brakefluid. Using brakefluid would call for buying new seals and hoses in the entire clutchsystem after cleaning out the brakefluid to 100%. Better off buying all new components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
OK, so listening to the tons of advice I've:

-installed Oberon slave cylinder
-clamped piston on slave shut as I bled clutch line
-used automotive syringe to inject BMW clutch fluid up from the slave to the reservoir (plenty of experience doing this)
-checked clutch which can change gears but will not roll forward smoothly (it rolls but you can feel it engage the plates) bike not turned on
-currently the bike is leaning on its right side with reservoir at its highest and clutch lever taped closed
will leave for several hours then check again.
__

Nothing has changed. Clutch will shift gears (engine off) but will not roll smoothly when in first gear and clutch is held in. I give up, spent way too many hours on this. I'll take it into the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I took my bike into the BMW mottorrad to have the clutch line bled. Everything was fine, I was waiting beside my trailer as they said they were bringing it out to me. Kept waiting then a manager comes out and tells me there is a problem. It seems they crashed the bike on the way out of the shop. They offered to pay everything but were't sure how it happened, something still wrong with the clutch (even though their mechanic took it out to test the bleed) or inexperienced employee. Now waiting for a new turn signal and front fender (not sure if any other parts were damaged) to have them replace. I couldn't make this sh*t up if I tried!
 
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