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Discussion Starter #1
a new to me yesterday 1993 k75s with 14,000 miles bike runs great except when i down shift i have to stomp on the shifter.My Ural down shifts easier. Any suggestions on what i could do? tomorrow i am changing the gear box fluid, lubricating the splines and the final drive fluid.
 

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One of two things: A. Splines need lubed B. Your pussy footing it(used to the Ural).

See how it reacts after the spline lube. If it still hard to downshift, I would assume your not shifting with enough confidence(took me a while to get used to the force needed).

Could be other things, but these are the primary causes.
 

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shifting down

We are talking trans splines not f drive. With 14k it had to have sat alot and probably has some surface rust or very dry splines. The hard downshift is the key to this one.
 

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lifting the seat on kt75

anyone know how to open up the seat on kt75 im bereft have tried looking for a catch or lever ????????[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks all

how challenging is lubing the clutch splines? is there a video or article that would be helpful that anyone knows of please pass it along.

called my local dealer to ask what the spline lubrication would cost , did not think i had the time.
They quoted me $485 , that sounded outrageous , so i decided i did have the time .

i did the final drive and the transmission end but did not do the clutch splines

i will do the clutch spline in the next week or two (still down shifts hard)

the final drive lubrication took me about two hours start to finish , not bad at all

while i had the rear tire off i installed new rubber
 

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Clutch spline lube takes long time

I was in the same boat with my 95 K75RT. I jumped in and did the dreaded clutch spline lube back in February. Like everyone says, it just takes a lot of time and attention to detail but is not too bad.
Bike was new to me and removal of fairings took some time. But I would guess my slow attack on the procedure took me at least 12 hours, of which only 15 minutes involved the actual clutch spline lube. But it was a good learning process on the bike.
I used the following link to print out several good guides, including the tip for making an inexpensive tie-down stand for the front wheel. Find the articles you like, print them out, and get going on the lube job.
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml
 

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I haven't done mine yet but I've done a lot of reading on it. For what its worth.

I was having the same problem with my K100 just got stuck at every down shift and I'd have to force it in. Are you in a hot climate? I'm in DC and the 100 degree day degraded my shifting to stomping on the damn thing. I put in a 85w-145 gear oil and it made a night and day difference. Suddenly I was shifting like a jap bike (well close to that).

I read a lot about it and the 80w90 just wasn't performing with the engine heat and the ambient temperature. I have a feeling that such a wide range oil just wasn't around in the 1980s and thus its not included anywhere in the manuals. Perhaps someone that knows more could comment...

There is talk about synthetics seeping a bit out of the gear box, but I haven't had any issue. As far as I could tell I bought the non-synthetic... Also leave the rear end alone as it doesn't get anywhere near as hot as the gear box.

Your mileage may vary, I still need to do the tranny spline lube, but this gave me a lot more time to do it when I had the time.

I believe its possible to jack up the entire bike, a seperate jack under the engine and gear box and actually roll the entire end back to get access to the spline. Nothing goes out of alignment, no wheel to take off. Just detach the tranny from the engine and get access to the spline... I know i read about it somewhere, maybe flying duck has done it or Don E out in the ktech stuff.
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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I'm not a fan of the slide the drive train back a few inches approach. Best to take the whole bike apart, get the splines cleaned of old grease and do a thorough job.

My approach:

Drain final drive.

Remove final drive and swing arm.

Remove L-Jetronic brain and battery.

Put sawhorse through frame to lift center stand an inch or so off of the ground. (Some people create tie-down rigs for the front end but this is not necessary.)

Remove center stand.

Drain tranny. (You want to do it after the center stand is removed because sometimes it drains down the center stand and creates a nasty puddle.)

You don't need to remove the starter, only the two bolts that mount it to the tranny. Use a string around the frame to hold the rear of it up a bit when reinstalling the tranny.

It's also useful to get a can of engine degreaser to clean the swing arm and tranny while you have them off of the bike.

If you have an ABS bike the support the modulators from the frame with a piece of string.

Complete removal of the bag racks is not necessary.

It's really not that hard, just time-consuming.

 

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spline lube

sleeper said:
I was in the same boat with my 95 K75RT. I jumped in and did the dreaded clutch spline lube back in February. Like everyone says, it just takes a lot of time and attention to detail but is not too bad.
Bike was new to me and removal of fairings took some time. But I would guess my slow attack on the procedure took me at least 12 hours, of which only 15 minutes involved the actual clutch spline lube.
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml
I had the difficult downshift on my '87 K75T. Did trans spline with a friend and problem went away immediately and completely. But after a high speed run on very hot day the problem came back and has stayed. My lube only lasted 2,000 km. I used this grey stuff that my buddy says is the actual BMW requirement.
I've heard disscusions about a newer Moly paste that is 60% moly. Can anyone tell me the best tranny clutch spline lube?
 

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FlyingDuck said:
Most people use Honda Moly 60.

Better yet, use a 50/50 mix of Honda Moly 60 and Wurth 3000.

Or Guard Dog 570.

Thanks, I'll look for the wurth stuff as well then. I only put a thin film of the stuff on the male and female of the spline after cleaning...maybe should have put more on. In some of the images I've seen on this site about the clutch spline I see a large washer on the spline and I don't recall seeing this on mine? Do all K bikes have that washer?
 

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PsyKotic Waterfowl
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Are you referring to the collar on the clutch plate?

Just do the male splines on the transmission. If you do the female splines on the clutch plate then you run the risk of it getting pushed through and spinning off onto the clutch friction surface.

Provided your clutch plate has the collar that it should, any excess that gets pushed out of the rear will spin off harmlessly to the bellhousing and miss the aft clutch surface.

 

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Forget finding that Wurth stuff in Canada, believe me I have tried and so have others, nowhere to be found....! :(
 

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FlyingDuck said:
Are you referring to the collar on the clutch plate?

Just do the male splines on the transmission. I
Yes I only did the male splines after a good wire brush cleaning. The washer I'm referring to is on the male spline riding near the clutch. I've seen it in one of these images on this site and I just don't recall it being there. I'll be redoing this spring but I wanted the best lube and to see if I'm missing a washer. I could just be forgetting that it's there.
 

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I find this interesting....but why would lubing the spline have anything to do with shifting I have never heard that. if your clutch plates are binding on the shaft after applying disengagement pressure to the pressure plate than its more to do with notching on the splines and the lube is just masking the problem or just a badly engineered set up...you should never have to lube a clutch spline I would check the spline for beveled edges on the spline teeth if there are none then its just a bad design or there is notching. Is the clutch dragging when stopped? I just did a search on " 'clutch spline lube" and 99% of the pages that came up are all BMW motorcycle related.That tells me its more of a design flaw and BMW recommends lube to cover up the real problem. I work on many vehicles Cars ,trucks, tractors, you name it...never saw or lubed a shaft... dryer the better..with exception maybe to the slide on the throwout bearing.... or for ease of assembling
 

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Once I got the whole rear end apart myself, I wondered how a lube would help anything. But after doing it and seeing all shifting problems instantly disappear, I deemed it just another one of those quirky K-bike mysteries that make a K worth owning It's something I just don't question :p
 

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pallum said:
Once I got the whole rear end apart myself, I wondered how a lube would help anything. But after doing it and seeing all shifting problems instantly disappear, I deemed it just another one of those quirky K-bike mysteries that make a K worth owning It's something I just don't question :p
:yesnod: Aint that the truth!
 
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