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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 1992 K75S and refuse to pay the dealer $140 for an oil change, so I'm looking for a little help here.
If anyone knows of a video (including the removal of the bellypan/spoiler to access the filter) showing a step-by-step procedure, please send me the link. I've seen 1 or 2 on YouTube videos but not in the detail I'd like.

Also, is it ok to use Rotella T oil?. I've seen other forums highly suggest it but I'm concerned about it stating it is for deisel and someone thought the additives in it may be harmful to the catalytic converter.

Thanks very much!
Dan ([email protected])
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I have a 1992 K75S and refuse to pay the dealer $140 for an oil change, so I'm looking for a little help here.
If anyone knows of a video (including the removal of the bellypan/spoiler to access the filter) showing a step-by-step procedure, please send me the link. I've seen 1 or 2 on YouTube videos but not in the detail I'd like.

Also, is it ok to use Rotella T oil?. I've seen other forums highly suggest it but I'm concerned about it stating it is for deisel and someone thought the additives in it may be harmful to the catalytic converter.

Thanks very much!
Dan ([email protected])
 

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bromberg said:
I have a 1992 K75S and refuse to pay the dealer $140 for an oil change, so I'm looking for a little help here.
If anyone knows of a video (including the removal of the bellypan/spoiler to access the filter) showing a step-by-step procedure, please send me the link. I've seen 1 or 2 on YouTube videos but not in the detail I'd like.

Also, is it ok to use Rotella T oil?. I've seen other forums highly suggest it but I'm concerned about it stating it is for deisel and someone thought the additives in it may be harmful to the catalytic converter.

Thanks very much!
Dan ([email protected])
Nothing difficult here, good on you to take it on yourself.

The belly pan is easily removed by taking out the two hex-head bolts in the bottom front in the center of the rubber mounts. Once these are removed work it forward and down to slide the rubber mounts out and the rear and front tab away. This will remove the pan.

You will then see the bottom of the engine where there is an oil filter access plate held on by three hex-head screws. Some will just loosen these to drain the oil rather than removing the drain plug, I do both. This is where you need the proper filter and a removal tool that will fit into the car and on the filter and a new crush washer if you removed the drain plug. I got mine along with Bosch filters and crush washers from Beemer Boneyard Beemer Boneyard Oil Change Kit.

As far as oil is concerned and not wanting a dreaded oil discussion, I use Mobile 1 as recommended by Bob Fleischer on his web site BMW Oils . He has extensive information on Airheads as well as classic K-bikes. Others may have different suggestions.

Don't overfill or over tighten the hex bolts and ensure the O-ring on the access cover is good. Reinstalling the pan can take some wiggling and pushing but be patient.

Check the oil level in the window and keep riding!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
reply to stokester

Thanks for the encouragement since I often get stuck in the middle of a project with that sinking feeling when the unexpected happens (or finish a project puzzled by an extra screw lying around :).

Anyhow, assuming I can get the belly pan off and all goes well, when I put it back on will I hear a definitive snap-into-place to assure that all is aligned before I put back on the 2 hex-head bolts?

Also, by using Mobil 1 synthetic oil, how long can I go before my next oil/filter change? Living here in south FL I don't have dusty conditions and (since the roads are so boring) at best put on only a few thousand miles per year.

Thanks again!
Danny
 

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bromberg said:
Thanks for the encouragement since I often get stuck in the middle of a project with that sinking feeling when the unexpected happens (or finish a project puzzled by an extra screw lying around :).

Anyhow, assuming I can get the belly pan off and all goes well, when I put it back on will I hear a definitive snap-into-place to assure that all is aligned before I put back on the 2 hex-head bolts?

Also, by using Mobil 1 synthetic oil, how long can I go before my next oil/filter change? Living here in south FL I don't have dusty conditions and (since the roads are so boring) at best put on only a few thousand miles per year.

Thanks again!
Danny
You'll know the belly pan is on properly when the rear tab is in the slot, the upper tab is in the slot, the rubber bottom mounts have slid into the slots and the holes line up for the hex bolts. It sounds complex but it is not. Just take your time and look closely at the items I just mentioned before you take it off and when it is removed to get a good idea how it all goes back together.

How often to change oil? That's another topic that gets attention with many varied opinions. It depends on a lot of things. I ride throughout the year putting about 10K miles on the K75 changing oil/filter about every 5K. If you ride and put your bike up for a couple of months during cooler weather then you may want to change it before putting it up regardless of the miles. Oil and filters are cheap compared to repairs.

If you have not looked through the forum for common maintenance/repairs for the classic K-bikes I recommend you do so. There is the spline lube, clutch cable (carry a spare and know how to replace it) and water pump seal among a few others things to watch. Anton Largiader has an easy procedure for the spline lube on his site -> K Spline Lube. These are more complex than an oil change but necessary to keep your brick the reliable, smooth-running machine it is.

I've done all of these and followed the advice of carrying a spare clutch cable for years. This summer after returning from a 4000 mile trip to the midwest for the MOA Rally and a family visit it broke not but 15 miles from the house. With my spare cable I was back on the road in less than 30 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
clutch question

I received the following reply from Shell Oil regarding using their Rotella oil:

"Yes, Rotella T 15W-40 and Rotella T6 5W-40 both have been tested and pass JASO MA/MA2; and API SM for gasoline engines. It is suitable for wet-clutch applications and gasoline engines that do not have catalytic convertors."

Can someone tell me if my K75S has a wet-clutch or catalytic converter?

I'll probably use Mobil 1 synthetic [as was suggested at http://bmwmotorcycletech.info] but just looking to keep my options open. :snowlaff:

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Can someone tell me if my K75S has a wet-clutch or catalytic converter?[/B]



Thanks,
Dan[/QUOTE]

It has neither. The 5W oil is too thin for your bike. I use 20w50 year round in TX.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
stokester said:
You'll know the belly pan is on properly when the rear tab is in the slot, the upper tab is in the slot, the rubber bottom mounts have slid into the slots and the holes line up for the hex bolts. It sounds complex but it is not. Just take your time and look closely at the items I just mentioned before you take it off and when it is removed to get a good idea how it all goes back together.

How often to change oil? That's another topic that gets attention with many varied opinions. It depends on a lot of things. I ride throughout the year putting about 10K miles on the K75 changing oil/filter about every 5K. If you ride and put your bike up for a couple of months during cooler weather then you may want to change it before putting it up regardless of the miles. Oil and filters are cheap compared to repairs.

If you have not looked through the forum for common maintenance/repairs for the classic K-bikes I recommend you do so. There is the spline lube, clutch cable (carry a spare and know how to replace it) and water pump seal among a few others things to watch. Anton Largiader has an easy procedure for the spline lube on his site -> K Spline Lube. These are more complex than an oil change but necessary to keep your brick the reliable, smooth-running machine it is.

I've done all of these and followed the advice of carrying a spare clutch cable for years. This summer after returning from a 4000 mile trip to the midwest for the MOA Rally and a family visit it broke not but 15 miles from the house. With my spare cable I was back on the road in less than 30 minutes.
I wish I knew as much as you do about K75 repair - don't have the confidence yet. I'm working my way up to my 1st oil change!
 

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Do you have the bike's owner's manual? Usually BMW walks you thru the oil change procedure and advises you on which oil to use in the OM.
Steve
1990 K75RT
 
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